2000 Toyota Land Cruiser: Please Help with My Suspension Question Google Has Failed to Answer

[Hindle]

Hey!

I'm looking to replace my OEM Torsion Bars, Rear Springs, and all four Shocks.

My OEM torsion bars are so worn out that I'm sitting at stock height with them crank all the way down (up), and I don't want more than 1.5"-2" of lift in the front, and potentially 1"-1.5" in the rear.

I was thinking I could just replace my existing torsion bars with a budget-friendly aftermarket solution and use those to level the truck after replacing the shocks as well.

Overall, I wouldn't mind keeping the rear at stock height and having the truck level out using Torsion Bars, but I'm confused what parts I want/need.

I will not be adding additional weight to the front or rear of the truck that's noticeable (more than 60-80lbs)

I do 90% pavement driving and my model does not have air bags

Thanks!

 

[NE Snowman]

90% road driving, reindex oem. I wouldn’t even lift your truck tbh.

Stock ride height creates the least amount of stress on CV angles and if your not really off-roading what are you gaining besides bro-truck level.

Regretted lifting my 4R for mostly pavement/snow. Never gave me any additional value, instead dealt with driveline/suspension noises that never got fully resolved.

Body roll will not be changed very much with spring rates, that’s swaybars. Only going to feel more road imperfections.

Budget friendly aftermarket parts are rarely a quality OEM LC replacement.

 

[Hindle]

In my experience:

Stiffer springs are for added weight.
(Anti-)swaybars are for “body lean”.
Shocks control ride.

If you’re using stiffer springs to adjust ride, or correct excessive body lean, then you’re probably going to be disappointed with the end result.

wut lol

 

[Hindle]

driving, reindex oem. I wouldn’t even lift your truck tbh.

Stock ride height creates the least amount of stress on CV

Thanks for opinions y'all!

 

[jLB]

wut lol

Install some 32mm torsion bars, OME shocks, heavy rear springs, and 2” lift, on an otherwise stock DD, and you’ll understand…

Maybe you can find a vendor that will “pinky swear” that it will be a substantial improvement.

You’ll be an AHC convert in no time, probably without really understanding why…

You appear to be from the Denver area, I’d suggest that you ride/drive similar vehicles to what you propose, then again, maybe your “ass” is less/more calibrated than mine?

 

[Hindle]

Install some 32mm torsion bars, OME shocks, heavy rear springs, and 2” lift, on an otherwise stock DD, and you’ll understand…

Maybe you can find a vendor that will “pinky swear” that it will be a substantial improvement.

You’ll be an AHC convert in no time, probably without really understanding why…

You appear to be from the Denver area, I’d suggest that you ride/drive similar vehicles to what you propose, then again, maybe your “ass” is less/more calibrated than mine?

 

[Hindle]

I wish mine had AHC id leave it there

 

[VTOLC100]

Hello!

I have installed the Ironman Pro Stage 2 kit on my 200 LC 100 that includes their torsion bars and diff drop, and I wanted to get some feedback on how it sits, the extent of the droop, and if it is adequate. Few things to note first.

I will be installing the Ironman front bumper and Warn 12k winch this weekend, so the dimensions are before installation. I will also be installing a read bumper with tire carrier and jerrycan holders (not sure when just yet) and eventually an RTT and interior fit-up. I have not driven it any distance since installing the kit and expect it to settle out some over time. I don't want excess rake front to back if I can avoid it, but again expect the rear will settle down as more weight goes on. Below is how it sits currently (not some side to side adjustment on the torsion bars is needed to correct the tilt of 5/8" on the front)

Dimensions are center of hub to fender.

Drivers Side Front = 21" Rear = 23 7/8"

Drivers Side Front Droop : center of hub to fender = 23 1/2"

Drivers Side Front Droop in mm = 21"- 23 1/2" = 63.5 mm

I read on various threads that 50mm is the minimum, but I wanted to get some input from the forum here.


Dimensions are center of hub to fender.
Passenger Side Front = 21 5/8" Rear = 23 3/4"

Passenger Side Front Droop : center of hub to fender = 23 5/8"

Passenger Side Front Droop in mm = 21 5/8"- 23 5/8" = 50.8 mm

The passenger side is just at 50mm.

Appreciate any feedback.

Thanks