200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks

[NateK]

@TexAZ , @bryson, @bjowett ... I am about to tackle this conversion, so thanks everyone for such great info!

The only detail I am unclear about is which bolts can be LC vs Tundra.

• The bolt / nut that holds the bottom of the strut assembly to the LCA, should be Tundra?
• View attachment 2345701
  
• *Snip*

Any others I am missing?

BTW, Ben at Filthy said the only difference between the LC and Tundra King struts were the inner and outer shaft spacers (stainless steel collars the bottom bolt goes through); the shaft and body were the same part numbers. If Tundra bolts are used, this would be necessary. If LC bolts could be used, then perhaps existing spacers are fine?

Thanks in advance!

I believe I'm the one that brought up the lower strut bolt and while I believe you'd be better off with the tundra bolt I haven't bothered to change mine out and I'm at about 9k miles on the swap.
When I took the bolts out most recently, there were thread marks from the nut on the main shaft of the bolt (past the threaded portion) and that's why I bring it up.
I will be putting in Tundra lower strut bolts when I switch to Kings.

As for the struts there are some differences, but surprisingly the overall lengths are the same.

 

[bloc]

I believe I'm the one that brought up the lower strut bolt and while I believe you'd be better off with the tundra bolt I haven't bothered to change mine out and I'm at about 9k miles on the swap.
When I took the bolts out most recently, there were thread marks from the nut on the main shaft of the bolt (past the threaded portion) and that's why I bring it up.
I will be putting in Tundra lower strut bolts when I switch to Kings.

As for the struts there are some differences, but surprisingly the overall lengths are the same.
View attachment 2349834

I’m guessing the lower one with the thicker shock body and longer spring is from the cruiser?

 

[NateK]

I’m guessing the lower one with the thicker shock body and longer spring is from the cruiser?

That's correct, apologies for not specifying.

 

[TeCKis300]

Oddly the cruiser hardware is more stout in every way

I’m guessing the lower one with the thicker shock body and longer spring is from the cruiser?

Interesting points that probably deserves a bit more consideration. I know myself included, I had once considered going to Tundra front end parts. Notes like this make me think other than geometry, strength would not be one of the upgrade advantages.

 

[bloc]

Interesting points that probably deserves a bit more consideration. I know myself included, I had once considered going to Tundra front end parts. Notes like this make me think other than geometry, strength would not be one of the upgrade advantages.

Should be as simple as comparing thickness of the steel used to build the arm. If anything is thicker in the cruiser parts.. bad news for tundra arm guys. But if the tundra stuff is the same or thicker (because it is longer) we shouldn’t have problems.

 

[silverhorse]

I finally have have accumulated the parts for the conversion. I'll be using 35mm offset wheels..
my question is should I use 1.25 rear wheel spacers or the 1.5" ? I'm a bit concerned about the stress that will be put on the rear axle bearing from the wheel offset and spacer combo...

looks like Spidertrax only offers the 1.25..
other companies offer the 1.5...

 

[HDJdreams]

Tie rod? Just the outer rod ends need swapped or both inner and outer?

 

[Mogwai]

Tie rod? Just the outer rod ends need swapped or both inner and outer?

Just outer.

 

[Mogwai]

I finally have have accumulated the parts for the conversion. I'll be using 35mm offset wheels..
my question is should I use 1.25 rear wheel spacers or the 1.5" ? I'm a bit concerned about the stress that will be put on the rear axle bearing from the wheel offset and spacer combo...

looks like Spidertrax only offers the 1.25..
other companies offer the 1.5...

Nice! Spidertrax 1.25" is prob best. I'll be curious if you can get +35 offset wheels to stuff, keep us posted!

 

[grinchy]

I finally have have accumulated the parts for the conversion. I'll be using 35mm offset wheels..
my question is should I use 1.25 rear wheel spacers or the 1.5" ? I'm a bit concerned about the stress that will be put on the rear axle bearing from the wheel offset and spacer combo...

looks like Spidertrax only offers the 1.25..
other companies offer the 1.5...

you want equal poke?.The tundra arm is already an 1+ wider, so +35 with that is at best +10 effective, probably less. so to match on rear would be a 2” or so. And agree with @Mogwai it gets into the outside fender probably. There is a low offset thread running around, maybe some good ideas and pics in that.

 

[silverhorse]

I'm not sure how close the track width needs to be? font to back....

 

[NateK]

The track width on a Tundra is 3.3" wider up front, and 3.5" wider out back (1.75" wider per side in the rear) than the 200.
At stock height or very small lift 1.75" spacers make the track width spot on.
For 2" lift or more I'd do 1.5" spacers to account for the narrower track when lifting IFS.

 

[alta]

I finally finished my Tundra IFS conversion, so wanted to make a few notes for posterity.

• I did need to use Tundra bolts for the LCA to Lower Strut/shock mount, because the original LC bolts are about 3/4" too long (nut runs out of thread).
• I am using my King 2.5 700# LC strut (same part number as Tundra) w the LC stainless eyelet
• The BDS 4" Sway bar links are too long. Cutting 1" off would solve this, but might not give enough bolt in the sleeve to withstand the rotational force.
• My stock sway bar links were just slightly too wide for the pocket in the OEM Tundra LCAs. (they wouldn't go in, so I took a few mm off of the metal sleeve w a grinder)
• My sway bar links' angles aren't terrible

Overall I am very happy with the install. It went together like factory components should and vehicle's composure at speed is improved. It is smoother and generally less drama (the bouncy jitters I had at the high end of the stroke.) At speeds above 70, the truck now feels more planted.

Thanks again to everyone who pioneered this and helped make the path easier.

 

[04UZJ100]

I finally finished my Tundra IFS conversion, so wanted to make a few notes for posterity.

• I did need to use Tundra bolts for the LCA to Lower Strut/shock mount, because the original LC bolts are about 3/4" too long (nut runs out of thread).
• I am using my King 2.5 700# LC strut (same part number as Tundra) w the LC stainless eyelet
• The BDS 4" Sway bar links are too long. Cutting 1" off would solve this, but might not give enough bolt in the sleeve to withstand the rotational force.
• My stock sway bar links were just slightly too wide for the pocket in the OEM Tundra LCAs. (they wouldn't go in, so I took a few mm off of the metal sleeve w a grinder)
• My sway bar links' angles aren't terrible

Overall I am very happy with the install. It went together like factory components should and vehicle's composure at speed is improved. It is smoother and generally less drama (the bouncy jitters I had at the high end of the stroke.) At speeds above 70, the truck now feels more planted.

Thanks again to everyone who pioneered this and helped make the path easier.

Interesting to hear your perspective and how the ride changes on different platforms.

Stock, the Tundra drives like a sloppy pontoon boat.

 

[4wheelgreg]

Tundra and land cruiser complete strut/ spring look very close in length 26” roughly . If you look at King shock they offer a 3.0 in land land cruiser with a 700lb standard and 800 lb option .
King only offers the Tundra in 700 lb spring in any 2.5 or 3.0 which both LC and Tundra are stock lenght but you can crank up the adjusters for load and lift .
Few post guys are running 2.5 Icons with spacer for lift .
I’m still gathering parts for my swap , People have reported they are getting lift from just the swap with no extended strut springs . I can’t see it getting any lift using OEM shocks , all your doing is extending out ward 1.75 on each end .
I am still waiting to hear back from Filthy on a King set up for my 2019 LC .
I’m doing bumper / winch and skid plates and plan on running 34 / 35 tire .
I don’t want to have to preload the crap out of the adjusters or run spacers on the kings Just to get a good ride and support the load , most of the time you get a good ride but then need lift and end up with spacers .
Seems 700lb springs on stock length 2.5’s but preload beyond 30 mm , I don’t mind preloading for fine tuning ride but not to achieve lift is my pet peeve.

 

[bloc]

Tundra and land cruiser complete strut/ spring look very close in length 26” roughly . If you look at King shock they offer a 3.0 in land land cruiser with a 700lb standard and 800 lb option .
King only offers the Tundra in 700 lb spring in any 2.5 or 3.0 which both LC and Tundra are stock lenght but you can crank up the adjusters for load and lift .
Few post guys are running 2.5 Icons with spacer for lift .
I’m still gathering parts for my swap , People have reported they are getting lift from just the swap with no extended strut springs . I can’t see it getting any lift using OEM shocks , all your doing is extending out ward 1.75 on each end .
I am still waiting to hear back from Filthy on a King set up for my 2019 LC .
I’m doing bumper / winch and skid plates and plan on running 34 / 35 tire .
I don’t want to have to preload the crap out of the adjusters or run spacers on the kings Just to get a good ride and support the load , most of the time you get a good ride but then need lift and end up with spacers .
Seems 700lb springs on stock length 2.5’s but preload beyond 30 mm , I don’t mind preloading for fine tuning ride but not to achieve lift is my pet peeve.

Standard king 2.5s added so much travel on top of stock I’d worry about a spacer adding too much CV angle to keep them healthy.. though I don’t know the exact angle they are good to.

 

[4wheelgreg]

I did think of that but after reading a thread dwai did on King Springs with heavy loaded front his 700lb 14” springs did not cut it .
As was in this thread about guys trying LC complete strut spring the angling out of the shock mount is adding leverage to the angled shock .
I would rather take a chance with the 800lb spring , I message dwai not sure if he is running Tundra swap , he’s running 305/70r17 tire , that would be a pretty mean CV angle for LC arms .

Choosing spring rates for King shocks

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[alta]

People have reported they are getting lift from just the swap with no extended strut springs . I can’t see it getting any lift using OEM shocks , all your doing is extending out ward 1.75 on each end .

I have zero height increase from the IFS swap. In fact, I am about .25"-.5" lower. I need to do a precise measurement...

 

[4wheelgreg]

All the Tundra swap will give you is a decreased CV angle with lift . I wonder the difference between a between keeping stock LC arm setup using a differential drop to achieve the 3.5 keeping the angles in check .

I’m still figuring out the best configuration for I believe I’m going 34’s but want to run wide tire like a 305 .
I know what suspension I’m going with King and Filthy , I have been in communication with Ben who is a wealth of information , I watched his videos and talked in depth for about an hour about not just LC applications I have owned full outright race buggies and suspensions and Ben was really knowledgeable.

 

[bemerritt]

Anyone splurge on these yet?!?!

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