200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks

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Anyone splurge on these yet?!?!

How many 200's have broken the stock units would be my question.
 
as one of the few to snap a factory CV axle, it was pure geometry.
using the SPC upper arm adjustability, i had the alignment shop push the wheels forward to allow 35s to clear the body mount. you "can" move the wheel 1" forward.
this will destroy CVs.

after one smoked inner CV joint and a sheared shaft i contacted SPC to ask about the alignment causing issues. Their engineer said, they never even tested beyond .75" forward adjustment...was surprised you could go a full inch forward, and yes it goes beyond the limit of the inner cup angle.

i've put 100K on my truck with the Tundra swap, towing a boat, running trails in Moab and Colorado, with no issues since dialing back the alignment.
somewhere i actually posted the results of cam positioning and how much you can dial in the wheel location. i generally shoot for neutral in the rear cams, and inward on the front. it pushes the wheels 3/8" forward. enough to clear 35s and no binding or alignment issues.
 
I read through this and other Tundra swap threads and am still wondering what front coilovers to go with.

What has everyone gone with for the front coilovers for their swaps; Tundra, 200 series or custom order made up of a combo a parts from both and Tundra and 200?
 
I read through this and other Tundra swap threads and am still wondering what front coilovers to go with.

What has everyone gone with for the front coilovers for their swaps; Tundra, 200 series or custom order made up of a combo a parts from both and Tundra and 200?
I used Tundra spec coilovers.
 
Thanks and if I remember correctly, you had to notch a portion of the bucket to allow for the reservoir hose fitting. Do you think this could've been avoided if those specific components were from a 200 set up?

Anyone else care to share?
 
I have Tundra spec Icons on mine. No mods to make anything fit.

I think you'll have spring rate issues if you go with 200 spec struts - they're sprung lighter than the Tundras.
 
LCA's and Tie Rods acquired. Two questions for the tundra swap gang.

1. Brand new CV assemblies are $450 from my local dealership, once I include the $40 core charge for each. Seems like this isn't far off the best price for new. Any tips for used. I am in Southern California, so I do have a lot of people going long travel, but haven''t found any for the first month-ish of trying tundra forums, FB, the desert racing lace posted, etc. There are some used on ebay for $100, but they dont include pics and it seems like rolling the dice. Any tips? I don't mind buying new, but it seems with tundras/squoias not being full time 4xd, they should be in good shape other than rust.

2. Looking for new shocks, and definitely want to maximize lift. Seems like icon and kings are the go to. Which are pretty hard to find right now. But the question is, almost certainly i need 700 lb springs for a fully armored cruiser with a winch on front, right?


Thanks for the tips, excited to get on this train
 
Following up, any of you upgrade to 700lb springs? I have some 2.5" kings, but they come with 600lb springs. Front dissent bumper with a winch, stainless skids have me pretty heavy.

Any advice? Thanks!
 
Used ebay parts are always a roll of the dice.
The drive axles on tundras are always turning, they are part of the front wheel hub. They just aren't getting driven like a full time 4wd setup.
I look for low mileage southern trucks, from bigger yards that have more to lose from an angry seller posting negative reviews. Try to find other listings, sometimes you can find pictures of the vehicle. I tend to steer away from front end Collison or rolled parts vehicles. The scrappers have no way of knowing if the CVs got jacked in the wreck. So far I've gotten 4 tundra axles and a sequoia front diff with no problems.

Good luck with your search.
 
Following up, any of you upgrade to 700lb springs? I have some 2.5" kings, but they come with 600lb springs. Front dissent bumper with a winch, stainless skids have me pretty heavy.

Any advice? Thanks!
I ran 700's in the 200. 600's are way to light IMO. We do run winches, bars, lights to turn night to day and a heavy diesel with dual batteries as well....
 
Theres so much good information in here.

As someone who is curious on properly widening his track and planning on reducing his wheel offset to bring everything back into harmony is anyone kind enough to give me a strong red or green light on going down this path with an LX?
 
Theres so much good information in here.

As someone who is curious on properly widening his track and planning on reducing his wheel offset to bring everything back into harmony is anyone kind enough to give me a strong red or green light on going down this path with an LX?
CF23E442-57CC-447E-AF02-ECEF653508ED.jpeg

🆗
 
Theres so much good information in here.

As someone who is curious on properly widening his track and planning on reducing his wheel offset to bring everything back into harmony is anyone kind enough to give me a strong red or green light on going down this path with an LX?

These Tundra parts are an awesome mod for the right rig. Depends on what you want to do. I gave this mod consideration and eventually decided against it. That doesn't make this undesirable, just that it didn't' fit my goals.

The major consideration for me is working within the fender constraints, suspension geometry, and maintaining strength and durability for heavy tow loads. While track width is generally a good thing and allows for more travel while maintaining better geometry throughout the stroke, I needed to maintain balance for a daily driver and work within the fender clearance of the 200-series. Keeping tires and wheels within the body lines to maximize aero and efficiency.

Tundra arms push each tire ~1.5" out. When running larger diameter tires, there's a need to modify offset to keep scrub radius (that pesky thing!). With matching aggressive tires (34+), that means another 1" out. That's a min total of 2.5" out, which starts putting tires into the fender. Particularly with wider more aggressive tires that may add another .75", for a total of 3.25". Add a chunky 2.5" spacer to the rear axle to match track width.

That's pre-runner style territory requiring overfenders or a body lift. What it gains for off-roading performance, it might give to durability. As every component starting from the control arm bushings at the frame, through the suspension, wheel bearings, are more loaded. As much as I believe in the core strength of the 200-series, the 5" total wider track at the rear axle may compromise payload handling durability, which is what ultimately gave me pause. Perhaps swapping in a Tundra rear axle may bring this back into harmony? (Curiously Tundra rear axles have lower GAWR than 200-series, 4150lbs to 4300lbs respectively).

I think it works however for a more dedicated off-road rig.
 
These Tundra parts are an awesome mod for the right rig. Depends on what you want to do. I gave this mod consideration and eventually decided against it. That doesn't make this undesirable, just that it didn't' fit my goals.

The major consideration for me is working within the fender constraints, suspension geometry, and maintaining strength and durability for heavy tow loads. While track width is generally a good thing and allows for more travel while maintaining better geometry throughout the stroke, I needed to maintain balance for a daily driver and work within the fender clearance of the 200-series. Keeping tires and wheels within the body lines to maximize aero and efficiency.

Tundra arms push each tire ~1.5" out. When running larger diameter tires, there's a need to modify offset to keep scrub radius (that pesky thing!). With matching aggressive tires (34+), that means another 1" out. That's a min total of 2.5" out, which starts putting tires into the fender. Particularly with wider more aggressive tires that may add another .75", for a total of 3.25". Add a chunky 2.5" spacer to the rear axle to match track width.

That's pre-runner style territory requiring overfenders or a body lift. What it gains for off-roading performance, it might give to durability. As every component starting from the control arm bushings at the frame, through the suspension, wheel bearings, are more loaded. As much as I believe in the core strength of the 200-series, the 5" total wider track at the rear axle may compromise payload handling durability, which is what ultimately gave me pause. Perhaps swapping in a Tundra rear axle may bring this back into harmony? (Curiously Tundra rear axles have lower GAWR than 200-series, 4150lbs to 4300lbs respectively).

I think it works however for a more dedicated off-road rig.

Thanks Teck, i didn't realize it was that much wider.

That amount of width plus the needed offset to clear and articulate a 33-34" tire would put me out of the territory of running a +40 - +50 ET wheel to bring me back closer to stock geometry. That is my approach right now brainstorming my options. Im happy with my new tires and im on the hunt for wheels, and im giving myself this headache to avoid spacers.

That GVWR is throwing me off too, I thought ALL of the tundra components were larger and more load capable.

Maybe i just need some UCAs...
 
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I’m Tundra swapped with AHC still intact. Width wise I previously had 1.25 spacers in the front, which are now removed (still have spacers in the rear). With a 34 it still tucks nicely without issue.

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With Tundra arms, RW wheels and 285-75r17 tires, they still fit in the fenders. Wider offset wheels will probably have contact with the fenders.
 
With Tundra arms, RW wheels and 285-75r17 tires, they still fit in the fenders. Wider offset wheels will probably have contact with the fenders.

Thanks Turbo, does this comment account for lift or valid @ stock height?
 

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