It could be the angles of the pics too. In your first pic the angle looks pretty good, and the second pic the angle look really bad. No matter what though, I think longer links are a good (part of a) solution.
200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks
- Thread starter TexAZ
- Start date
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TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
- Thread starter
- #142
There is no way to move the mounting point of the links to the sway bar. On the passenger side I ran a tundra link, as it was a better angle. Admittedly not as beefy as the LC unit. Th tundra link snapped running through a loooong wash in southern AZ. used the ever popular rope sway bar link to get home.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
FWIW, this is the response I got from Icon about their Tundra front parts:
“The ICON UCA’s alone will not gain more wheel travel but rather when combined with the ICON coilovers the vehicle will gain approximately 30% more wheel travel then stock.”
Right now I am trying to figure out what is available and possible with Tundra swap. Wondering if it’s possible to get a couple more inches down travel with component selection.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I'm getting 11-12" of wheel travel with my setup.
I understand the mounting points can't (easily) be moved for the swaybar or the links, I'm just talking about changing the link in relation to the existing mounting points. Flipping the link 180* around it's vertical axis, then inserting the upper mount from the outside of the swaybar (versus from the inside as stock) allows the angles on the links to be much less severe and much less bound-up. The lower mount of the link stays (albeit flipped around) in the exact same unmodified bracket on the tundra arm.
Mounting example below (on a Tundra) of what I'm talking about. This is actually the OEM config for the stock Tundra swaybar.
Notice how the upper link end is on the outside of the swaybar versus the inside. On my 2008 200 with tundra arms, my swaybar links are oriented just like in the picture, and there are NO clearance issues.
Mounting example below (on a Tundra) of what I'm talking about. This is actually the OEM config for the stock Tundra swaybar.
Notice how the upper link end is on the outside of the swaybar versus the inside. On my 2008 200 with tundra arms, my swaybar links are oriented just like in the picture, and there are NO clearance issues.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
King 3.0 for a Tundra
SKU: 33001-405A
Just did this install over the weekend and noticed a couple of things.
When using SPC upper control arms, you'll need to source bolts for the brake line bracket that bolts to the UCA as the OEM 200 bolts are larger than the Tundra ones. I used zip ties as a temporary solution to hold the brackets.
The LCA shock bolt seems a few MM too long. I'll have to compare with the Tundra bolt to verify, but I feel like the Tundra bolt should be on the parts list at this point.
Also, I am being a cheapskate and holding off on nice shocks so I reinstalled the OEM struts with the addition of the OEM strut spacers and ride height appears to be pretty similar to stock. I'll take measurements once I get back to my flat piece of concrete.
Lastly, has anyone that's done this install had issues with a torn/ leaking CV boot?
I used all new parts and used the FSM for the install but ~100 miles after the install I have grease sprayed out on my LCA and frame from the LHS inner CV boot, but can't see a tear in the boot.
When using SPC upper control arms, you'll need to source bolts for the brake line bracket that bolts to the UCA as the OEM 200 bolts are larger than the Tundra ones. I used zip ties as a temporary solution to hold the brackets.
The LCA shock bolt seems a few MM too long. I'll have to compare with the Tundra bolt to verify, but I feel like the Tundra bolt should be on the parts list at this point.
Also, I am being a cheapskate and holding off on nice shocks so I reinstalled the OEM struts with the addition of the OEM strut spacers and ride height appears to be pretty similar to stock. I'll take measurements once I get back to my flat piece of concrete.
Lastly, has anyone that's done this install had issues with a torn/ leaking CV boot?
I used all new parts and used the FSM for the install but ~100 miles after the install I have grease sprayed out on my LCA and frame from the LHS inner CV boot, but can't see a tear in the boot.
I used the zip tie to retain the ABS line as well, and it's more permanent than temporary now.
I used the stock 200 shock bolt and noticed no issues related to length - and as long as it isn't interfering with anything, there's no reason to worry about it IMO.
I think you'll find the OEM 200 struts to be too soft with the Tundra arms (the longer arms put more leverage on the shocks, and should be compensated for with higher spring rates I believe). As long as your cognizant of this, you should be OK for a little while, but I don't think I'd run it that way for too long. I think @TexAZ ran this way while his coilovers were being rebuilt and I believe he made the same observation (his is first-hand knowledge though).
As for the boot - I have one that leaks too. I haven't actually seen the hole, but it doesn't look like it's coming from a clamp. Mine were low mileage
lol used units, and the boots were dry when I got them. I'm guessing mine got nicked/cut during install. I ended up ordering an OEM Tundra boot kit, and upgraded clamps from McMaster Carr. I still haven't replaced it...@bryson
Re shock bolt, when the bolt was fully inserted in the arm I could just see the shoulder (unthreaded portion) through the hole in the LCA. Didn't take pics, but I'll inspect further when I install Tundra struts.
I've only got about 100 miles on it post conversion and gears went in at the same time, so I haven't noticed the front end being excessively soft. I'll likely notice soon now that I can start driving the truck normally though. With any luck I'll be picking up a set of Tundra struts and installing them this weekend.
Thanks for the words of encouragement on the boot. I'll be putting some miles on it in the coming days and will keep a close eye on it, worst case I replace the CV with another new one and have a trail spare...
Re shock bolt, when the bolt was fully inserted in the arm I could just see the shoulder (unthreaded portion) through the hole in the LCA. Didn't take pics, but I'll inspect further when I install Tundra struts.
I've only got about 100 miles on it post conversion and gears went in at the same time, so I haven't noticed the front end being excessively soft. I'll likely notice soon now that I can start driving the truck normally though. With any luck I'll be picking up a set of Tundra struts and installing them this weekend.
Thanks for the words of encouragement on the boot. I'll be putting some miles on it in the coming days and will keep a close eye on it, worst case I replace the CV with another new one and have a trail spare...
IIRC there were a few bolts that are the same diameter as the lower shock bolt - is there a chance that it got mixed up with another bolt? As an example, I am pretty sure the swaybar/KDSS link bolts are the same diameter.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
- Thread starter
- #152
The lower shock bolt is about 8" long. I believe itis the same part number between tundra and cruiser. The threads of one of mine got buggered up and I ordered tundra bolts.
The stock springs and shocks were too soft to run with a 21/2" spacer lift. It did fine going straight, but the first time you accelerated and turned, it leaned like a trophy truck. Fun in the desert, not so fun in town.
The stock tundra shocks have a thicker, shorter spring. You may be limiting your travel with that hardware. Oddly the cruiser hardware is more stout in every way.
If you've done the work to swap everything over, do yourself the favor and get some good coilovers. The ride is amazing.
The stock springs and shocks were too soft to run with a 21/2" spacer lift. It did fine going straight, but the first time you accelerated and turned, it leaned like a trophy truck. Fun in the desert, not so fun in town.
The stock tundra shocks have a thicker, shorter spring. You may be limiting your travel with that hardware. Oddly the cruiser hardware is more stout in every way.
If you've done the work to swap everything over, do yourself the favor and get some good coilovers. The ride is amazing.
I'll see if I can get measurements on factory bolt lengths to see if the 200 ones are longer as I suspect before moving forward with anything on that front.
I'll be going with king's once I get the weights figured out and can order custom valving. Takeoff Tundra struts will be a stopgap before then. The OEM struts are a stopgap before the Tundra struts because apparently it's difficult to buy anything from people online these days (reached out to several listings with struts to have most not reply.) I had to take advantage of time off and available shop time while I could to swap out all the suspension components and diffs at the same time.
I'll be going with king's once I get the weights figured out and can order custom valving. Takeoff Tundra struts will be a stopgap before then. The OEM struts are a stopgap before the Tundra struts because apparently it's difficult to buy anything from people online these days (reached out to several listings with struts to have most not reply.) I had to take advantage of time off and available shop time while I could to swap out all the suspension components and diffs at the same time.
I believe I still have a set of OEM Tundra struts that I'd be more than happy to part with. PM me if you are interested.
I found this thread on a 570 looks like a clean build using BDS Tundra kit , I would figure they had to cut the crossmember to drop the Diff .
Nice build .
expeditionportal.com
Nice build .
SOLD 2011 LX 570 (200 series) locked on 37s
As some of you are already familiar, this LX is a very special and unique 200, and there is not another like it in the US or perhaps anywhere. I am a bad influence on my friends, and I convinced my best friend of 20+ years to join my Land Cruiser addiction last year. He is a developer by...
expeditionportal.com
Took the after ride height measurements today. Measurements were rudimentarily taken with a 25' tape, measuring the approximate center of hub to the top of the fender well directly above the hub.
I was a bit more precise on the before measurements all measurements were taken parked in the exact same spot. Note that a Comeup 12.5rs winch was added up front and there was some weight in the cargo area for the after picture.
Stock ride height:
LF: 19.9"
LR: 22.4"
RR: 22.5"
RF: 20.1"
Tundra front conversion, stock struts, OEM strut spacers, winch:
LF: 20"
LR: 22"
RR: 22"
RF: 20"
I was a bit more precise on the before measurements all measurements were taken parked in the exact same spot. Note that a Comeup 12.5rs winch was added up front and there was some weight in the cargo area for the after picture.
Stock ride height:
LF: 19.9"
LR: 22.4"
RR: 22.5"
RF: 20.1"
Tundra front conversion, stock struts, OEM strut spacers, winch:
LF: 20"
LR: 22"
RR: 22"
RF: 20"
For those that run the tundra front end and 35’s, does the tyre hit the guard on uptravel? I run a +25 rim and I’m thinking I need to get some wide guards.
@TexAZ , @bryson, @bjowett ... I am about to tackle this conversion, so thanks everyone for such great info!
The only detail I am unclear about is which bolts can be LC vs Tundra.
BTW, Ben at Filthy said the only difference between the LC and Tundra King struts were the inner and outer shaft spacers (stainless steel collars the bottom bolt goes through); the shaft and body were the same part numbers. If Tundra bolts are used, this would be necessary. If LC bolts could be used, then perhaps existing spacers are fine?
Thanks in advance!
The only detail I am unclear about is which bolts can be LC vs Tundra.
- The bolt / nut that holds the bottom of the strut assembly to the LCA, should be Tundra?
- The through bolt that attaches the new Tundra UCA to the body... should this also be a Tundra part, or can the existing LC be used? (diff part numbers)
- Bolts for the KDSS links... okay to reuse existing LC or order Tundra swaybar bolts?
BTW, Ben at Filthy said the only difference between the LC and Tundra King struts were the inner and outer shaft spacers (stainless steel collars the bottom bolt goes through); the shaft and body were the same part numbers. If Tundra bolts are used, this would be necessary. If LC bolts could be used, then perhaps existing spacers are fine?
Thanks in advance!
Yep. ALL hardware on my front end conversion was reused OEM Land Cruiser. No Tundra bolts were used.
AFAIK It's accurate about the lower mount spacer difference on the struts, but all they do is move the mount within the arm bracket, so bolt length is unaffected. Spring rates are different from Tundra to LC, but the shocks themselves I believe are identical.
I think the best solution for the KDSS/swaybar links is the heim joint style that @TexAZ used. I used one Sequoia link (don't remember which side) to replace the forged LC link so both of my links are the style with the tie rod style joint on top. It's not perfect as the bushings are pretty stressed once they're installed, but it does work. The heim style links are 100% in my near future.
