Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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cruisermatt said:
I've put 7000 miles in six months on my Fel-pro headgasket.
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Well, that's good to hear. I purchased an OEM, but think I'll risk the Fel-pro since it's installed. I'll sell the head gasket for less than I paid for it and just get a new one if I ever have an issue with this one.
 
My 2nd favorite cleaning tool:

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And my FAVORITE cleaning tool:
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Engine update: decided to remove the oil pump, tear it down again and actually measure the tolerances since it is one of the main points of failure in the rebuild. I'm glad I did, it was out of spec and needed to be replaced. It probably would run just fine but if it failed, all this effort would be wasted. For $92 and $16 shipping, I figure I'll give SOR a little business.

I also got the new OEM hardware for the side plate, oil pan, and the timing gear cover. I had several misfits in the old engine and wanted to get them all to spec.

I have purchased a small sump pump and plan on doing a long cycle power clean on the water jacket in the block and head. The water ways are very rust coated. I'm not sure the block got dipped, so I'm going to clean it with vinegar. I'll do the process as described here.

I blasted, primed and painted the main pulley and got it driven onto the crank shaft, properly locating the timing cover so I could torque it down properly. I did use blue thread lock on all the side cover and timing cover bolts. HINT: to drive the pulley on, use a bearing drive tool from Autozone (borrowed) and an old bearing race added to the tool to finish the job since the shaft comes through the pulley by about 2" (for the crank nut to be added).

Speaking of crank nuts, mine is destroyed. I need to find a new used one. The tips are completely ripped off this one.

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It should look like this:
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Gents,

Good photos. I have a question that I believe I already know the answer to. I'm putting my motor back in. This piece goes on before the pulley. You can see the attached photo has the Off centered "washer" on. That is the piece I am referring to. Is anyone familiar with this piece and it's orientation? I know it doesn't belong as it is currently installed.

Thanks,
Boaf

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Pulley.webp
 
Boaf 32 said:
Gents,

Good photos. I have a question that I believe I already know the answer to. I'm putting my motor back in. This piece goes on before the pulley. You can see the attached photo has the Off centered "washer" on. That is the piece I am referring to. Is anyone familiar with this piece and it's orientation? I know it doesn't belong as it is currently installed.

Thanks,
Boaf



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Boaf,
You have it in the correct orientation - the cupped washer (it's the "oil slinger") should have the edges pointing away from the motor. As you said, you put it on in this order: oil slinger, timing gear cover, and then the the pulley.

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Ahh, thanks Vae Victus!!!. The other drawing did not have it visible. I need to pull off the pulley, Timing Gear Cover and install the Oil Slinger inside of the timing gear cover. Appreciate it, cheers.

Boaf
 
Misc Torque Specs - Use at your own risk! (FAQ)

The third post has 7ft lbs

With some of the people here that have done it a few times and learned from experience you may get a better answer in a day or so once people catch up on the forum on monday
 
Yep, thanks guys. I did torque at about 5 lbs with a little "extra" so they are right around 6-7 lbs. I thread locked each one as well.

I had forgotten about the Hugh Heifer's torque thread.


"you may get a better answer in a day or so once people catch up on the forum on monday" - What? You mean you folks don't check every 15 minutes for a new question from Vae Victus?
 
Engine Block Flush Setup

Here is my water jacket flush set up. Bought the pump from Amazon, and found the PVC fittings at Home Depot.

Added the brass three-quarter inch to male hose fitting. Found a female to female hose remnant at Home Depot that fit the pump and the brass fitting on the thermostat side easily.

I'm going IN on the thermostat side, and OUT on the water pump side. If that doesn't work, I can swap it. I may swap it and do it both ways to see if any more cleaning can be achieved.

Going to start with CLR as the cleaning agent, which is something I've used in the restaurant industry for a long time and trust it.

EDIT: Found a plug for the hole. A 3/8" plug "worked" but clearly it's a metric thread. Went to an OReily Auto parts, and the young hispanic man led me to the bin of brass plugs and said "good luck".

As I sit right now at my desk doing some work, the pump is circulating a gallon of CLR with about 5 gallons of water in the trash can in the reverse direction through the engine block. I'll let it run for an hour or so and check on things. The water was not immediately really dirty, so I think there is just some surface rust after being hot dipped when rebuilt.

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Very cool set up you have with the flushing system you made.

I find parts stores hit or miss on metric stuff. Ive been told more than once to just make a standard piece work thats close in size.... Im still chasing down all the hack jobs previous owners did that way.


be careful showing off your setup and nice work you will have a line of cruiser heads wanting you to do an engine flush for them.


cool post to read, I look forward to more!
 
alabamatacomaguy said:
Very cool set up you have with the flushing system you made.

I find parts stores hit or miss on metric stuff. Ive been told more than once to just make a standard piece work thats close in size.... Im still chasing down all the hack jobs previous owners did that way.


be careful showing off your setup and nice work you will have a line of cruiser heads wanting you to do an engine flush for them.


cool post to read, I look forward to more!
Click to expand...


Thanks man. I just noticed the Roll Tide. I guess this is our last conversation. War Eagle! :hillbilly:
 
After running the CLR through the block for about 6 hours, I found the block to be much the same as it was prior. Clearly this is going to take several days. I am switching to vinegar (since I stupidly dumped the CLR/water solution).

I looked on amazon at the price of vinegar and was shocked to find not only the 3% stuff (White Distilled) at the normal $3-5 range, but that there is 20% and 30% vinegar, but boy it is priced like it - $25-$35 a gallon! Yikes. I guess if you need concentrated acetic acid to work faster, this is what you pay. I will stick with the grocery store stuff.
 
So I've run this for 3 days, and did a flush last night with clean water. After 3 flushes it was still brown so I continued with the vinegar overnight again last night.

Here's the vinegar after 3 days. It's not that bad, plus there is very little if any sludge or sediment at the bottom.

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Scott short of having the block vatted at a machine shop your probably not going to get clear fluid on the return. If your not getting sediment any longer that's about as good as it's going to get.
 
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