Keep a separate tools list, for the purists who INSIST they be included in the expense tally to add onto it at the end.
Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
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- Thread starter
- #1,522
Aww nuts! (And bolts, etc). Received my overpriced but discounted (thank you Kyle at Toyota South Atlanta) fastener order for the engine mounts.
Couple of OEM only parts in here that were fatigued due to rust, so I replaced them. The long bolts with a cotter pin hole are $12 each. Dang. Not including the cotter pin.
I spread them out to make it feel like $100!
Genuiiiine!!!
Good castle nuts. You cannot find the octagonal ones elsewhere easily.
Good to see that Forum Special
Thanks Kyle! Now that Beno is not wanting to do smaller orders, Kyle has come through. The discount off retail is around 25% on most items.
Exciting no?
Couple of OEM only parts in here that were fatigued due to rust, so I replaced them. The long bolts with a cotter pin hole are $12 each. Dang. Not including the cotter pin.
I spread them out to make it feel like $100!
Genuiiiine!!!
Good castle nuts. You cannot find the octagonal ones elsewhere easily.
Good to see that Forum Special
Thanks Kyle! Now that Beno is not wanting to do smaller orders, Kyle has come through. The discount off retail is around 25% on most items.
Exciting no?
- Thread starter
- #1,523
Looking at some of the special order OEM bolts for the engine mounts:
Bolt on the right is NLA. Left and middle are 90102-13010. 90102-13009 is the NLA bolt. 009 NLA is for the right rear motor mount. 010 is for the left rear.
Head on the 009 is thinner by 1.5mm and bolt is shorter by 5mm. One of the cotter pin holes lines up in the same place as the 010 bolt so I assume it'll fit.
Bolt on the right is NLA. Left and middle are 90102-13010. 90102-13009 is the NLA bolt. 009 NLA is for the right rear motor mount. 010 is for the left rear.
Head on the 009 is thinner by 1.5mm and bolt is shorter by 5mm. One of the cotter pin holes lines up in the same place as the 010 bolt so I assume it'll fit.
- Thread starter
- #1,525
Yes, spurred on by your email, I have up looking for the two shock tower bolts and just went and bought them. Don't know why that was such a road block for me. Finished the suspension minus the steering stabilizer.
Now I can bring the engine home and begin assy.
Thanks for the push!
Now I can bring the engine home and begin assy.
Thanks for the push!
- Thread starter
- #1,526
Any advice on engine reassembly? I have to do the head to the block. Most of the rest is done. Oil pan has been cleaned and painted.
Steps to follow? Things to avoid? Things to remember to do first?
Steps to follow? Things to avoid? Things to remember to do first?
The FSM details the process pretty well. Poser has an oil pan gasket thread that gives some more tricks.
Truth be told, I didn't remember his name either - but it seemed appropriate
Just for the record:
I was handed the nickname While playing Rugby at UT in 1980. Got the personalized license plate in '84. The movie came out in December of '88.
Go back to sleep...
Scott the chassis looks awesome! You should number your head bolts with a sharpie in accordance with the FSM so you don't have to keep going back and forth for the sequence.
- Thread starter
- #1,530
Started out the day with the goal of tacking the seat support tube frame in place in the '70 FJ40, known as STPCHLD, and getting the engine of the '76 (SMOKEY) on the engine stand.
Rolled out my Everlast PowerTIG 200DV, and turned on the gas to check pressure. Immediately heard a leak, and found the gas line fitting to the rear of the welder to be leaking. What does one do when there's a leak? Grab a big wrench of course! So I tightened the nut down on the fitting and promptly heard a crunch. Well, that's not good. I listened the night and I immediately saw that the collar around the pressure fitting had sheared off. I spent the next hour or so to raising the Internet for a replacement part. This proved a little harder than it sounded as it is a special fitting that is used mostly on arc welders.
For those interested, photo of the replacement part is below. Or, what I hope is the right one. A call to Everlast Monday will confirm.
Grrr.
Fortunately I was more successful in my second: task mounting the engine to the engine stand. Although required second trip to Home Depot to get washers to ask his spacers for the bolts were they mounted to the engine, I finally got it done tonight.
I took the plastic wrap off engine for the first time in about two years to get a good look at the work that had been done. The engine looks great: the builder even painted the engine block on the outside and a nice gloss black.
I am now going to read-up on the steps to take before proceeding any further.
Rolled out my Everlast PowerTIG 200DV, and turned on the gas to check pressure. Immediately heard a leak, and found the gas line fitting to the rear of the welder to be leaking. What does one do when there's a leak? Grab a big wrench of course! So I tightened the nut down on the fitting and promptly heard a crunch. Well, that's not good. I listened the night and I immediately saw that the collar around the pressure fitting had sheared off. I spent the next hour or so to raising the Internet for a replacement part. This proved a little harder than it sounded as it is a special fitting that is used mostly on arc welders.
For those interested, photo of the replacement part is below. Or, what I hope is the right one. A call to Everlast Monday will confirm.
Grrr.
Fortunately I was more successful in my second: task mounting the engine to the engine stand. Although required second trip to Home Depot to get washers to ask his spacers for the bolts were they mounted to the engine, I finally got it done tonight.
I took the plastic wrap off engine for the first time in about two years to get a good look at the work that had been done. The engine looks great: the builder even painted the engine block on the outside and a nice gloss black.
I am now going to read-up on the steps to take before proceeding any further.
Its good to see you back at it. I was just thinking about this build yesterday.
- Thread starter
- #1,532
Time is an issue! Gotta carve it out.
Finding time and motivation is tough, I try for a few minutes a day. Be careful when you rotate your engine. The way your block is on the stand, it looks really unbalanced, especially when you install the head.
- Thread starter
- #1,534
Had a beer with several fellow cruiser heads last week. Left to right: Douglass (@oldschool4wheeling), Rainman, Aaron, Roger, and Art. I was cameraman. Tried some hooch that @Rainman is working on for the Leiper's Fork Distillery. Very interesting flavor.
Out of the 6 of us, there are 3 running 40s, 3 projects, and one in need of a truck.
Out of the 6 of us, there are 3 running 40s, 3 projects, and one in need of a truck.
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Well... Left to right in that photo is a bust. I thought you didn't drink any that night. And "very interesting flavor" is a strange comment for someone who didn't taste it.
We did have a great time though and plan to do this regularly. I confess. I AM the one in need of a Cruiser to fit in completely but the day I drive up in my '32 I bet no one will care...
We did have a great time though and plan to do this regularly. I confess. I AM the one in need of a Cruiser to fit in completely but the day I drive up in my '32 I bet no one will care...
- Thread starter
- #1,536
Fixed, sorry @Rainman - didn't mean to leave you out! That's what I get for posting AFTER I had already fallen asleep on the couch once last night.
And yes, it IS an interesting taste, you forget that I tried it in your basement almost 2 months ago. Being one who now does not drink after stopping in 1989, I am not a big fan of the taste of whiskey now. Plus, I didn't want to spill the beans what the flavor was, so "interesting" is what I came up with (perhaps I should have said "brilliant" because I think it is).
IIRC, you also have NEVER TASTED your own concoction. What say you about that Mr Rock slinger? (also, what is Aaron's handle on Mud, I can't find it, and, like you, have slept since then?).
- Thread starter
- #1,537
Yes, getting the bolts to line up with the 2F engine is quite the puzzle. When I took it off (2.5 years ago), I rigged it, but this time I looked on the internet and determined how others before me had done it. This resulted in a bottom heavy setup that I'm not sure how to re-arrange so that I can flip the engine when I do the oil pan.
Worst case, I'll just work on it upside down. Best case, when I put the head on, it will allow me to at least rotate the whole thing, with some effort.
I'm all ears if someone has a way to line up the engine lift bolts to make it more balanced!
This is how I did it (thanks again to @Coolerman, this is his photo):
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- Thread starter
- #1,538
I've spent some time getting the valve cover all shined up. Not too hard, just need the right tools.
Nice work! How long did that take?