1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[OtterX]

whew...finally found some wrench time this week.

going thru all the little bugs which still exist this rig.i didn't tackle anything "major" just all small stuff.

installed my new driver side cargo hatch. thoroughly sealed all possible leak points with ample amounts of silicone.

i didn't paint it as the touch up paint just flaked off the original hatch. it's going to be covered by a rubber mat anyways. i took a hose and blasted the compartment from underneath. i found that there were several leak points from the compartment where it met the underside. this is where it probably took in all that water on the 1 day it was out. in the obstacle course there was a water pool which probably went up to the bottom of the doors. this def brought up the water past the "seam" where the compartment met the underside. there was some black silicone there, but clearly not sealed very well. i sealed any seams inside and out. hopefully this will take care of that. will hose test it again soon.

since this was a custom fiberglass tub and body, it's now very evident to me that nothing OEM for a '78 interior floor will really fit that well. all '78 spec'ed mats, carpet kits, etc are a nogo out of the box. everything must be trimmed. i cut a 0.5" thick closed cell foam underpad for the floor mat. i made a "frame" around the hatch which is about that distance off the floor. this way the mat fits flush and even. looks nice, feels right underfoot.

also, a bit of elbow grease, steel wool, primer and oil based rustoleum on the clutch, brake, and accelerator arms freshened up the rusty and beat looking foot controls.

small, but nice and inexpensive upgrades were a new steering column housing and leather wrap around the old steering wheel.

i didn't find any struts which could easily replace my current rear swing out limiter and also ended up not really liking the wimpy feeling aircraft wire, so i got some chain, 0.75" electrical shrink tubing and SS screw links to redo it. ahh...much better.

got a full size cargo mat for the back, cut it down into 2 parts to fit around the rear seat latch and mounting bar. also applied the same closed cell foam under layer so the mat fit flush and even.

installed the lock for the gas door. again, b/c of the fiber glass the original latch and stop did not work. the dims were off. i fab'ed my own from some 90° AL extrusions. now looks nicer too. a small bit of peace of mind from the fuel stealing dirt bags in my city...

i tackled some of this easy small stuff, b/c i am not a wiring guy and was putting that part off towards the end. electricity was that part in high schooled science class i never did well in.

so, the wipers in this thing never really worked. one speed only, the wiper fluid trickled out like a weak drinking fountain. didn't even reach the windshield. the evening i returned from the only day the rig was on the road, the wipers stopped working altogether and no wiper fluid pump action at all. while the pump and motors were newly installed by wayne, something wasn't right. i did get a used switch and replaced it after having a friend test all the leads which seemed G2G. fuses all checked out, found some janky looking wires which connected this entire route, did a little reconnecting and got the wipers to work again at one speed (slow). at least now i can drive it in the rain if i had to. did fix the wiper fluid pump and now works like a champ as it should with a new pump. i can't quite get my head around the only one speed thing. if anyone here has tips i am all ears. the switch is a 2 speed late model, twist to engage fluid.

the one other electrical upgrade was installing the EL wire illuminated instrument cluster. this is a big improvement over the OEM bulbs. i can actually see my gauges now. still have to work out a new label for the voltmeter tho.

a new garvin wilderness rack now sits ontop of the roof. i had ordered a nice looking frontrunner, but it didn't fit. this was the factory recommended model for FJ40's. def a nogo. the rain gutter mounts did not span the rack wide enough to mount. i treid this about3 times, it just didn't fit. out of spec by 1.5". instead of going to the work shop to make custom fittings i decided to just return it. paul may of expO was very cool about it and took it back for a refund. after much searching around, it seems that the only ready to mount rack for the 40 series that i could find and reasonably liked was the garvin. half of my saved bookmarks for fj40 roof racks that i had compiled over the past 2 years went away. conferr, hannibal usa, and a few others. too bad. garvin was not my first choice, nor do i have any money left for a custom welded rack. i think i'd rather spend the money on my metal fab tools and welder anyways. i'll probably just build my own rack some day out of AL.

pics of the rack mounted the next time i have some day light.

again, if any one knows of known issue with these 2 speed wiper systems, pls feel free to chime in and point me in the right direction.

next on the list is installing my 12V gooseneck map LED light and laptop arm.

also, does anyone have any pics of what the interior should look like by the area where the gas line comes into the inside? all my hoses are totally exposed with clamps. i'd like to see how its supposed to look and fab my own cover. with some thermoplastic PVC i think i cam make a pretty decent one to cover up all that stuff.

the power steering still sounds horrible, even with the leak fixed and topped off. will have to figure out if i have bad seals, gears, etc.

ok, that's the latest gents. hopefully more soon.

 

[AATLAS1X]

there is many pics of a bone stock '78 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-light-restoration-thread-1978-blue-fj40.html

I assume you hit up this site? McMaster-Carr

 

[OtterX]

thanks for the links buddy.

found just the pic i was looking for.

where can i get these housings? i may have to bend and tweak them, but i think i can make them work.

there is many pics of a bone stock '78 here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-light-restoration-thread-1978-blue-fj40.html

I assume you hit up this site? McMaster-Carr

 

[DanS HJ-45]

where can i get these housings? i may have to bend and tweak them, but i think i can make them work.]

I'd call Merl at Classic Cruisers. Home

Somewhere in that yard I'm sure he's got a set of those plates and covers.

Dan

 

[OtterX]

I'd call Merl at Classic Cruisers. Home

Somewhere in that yard I'm sure he's got a set of those plates and covers.

Dan

thanks for the tip.

 

[OtterX]

figured out the problem with the wipers. since it wasn't operating in the 2 stages it should have, while the motor was newly installed, 2 wires were crossed and incorrect, so now fixed.

power steering pump is looking bad too. trying to make determination and may require a rebuild.

fiberglas hood is starting to warp just from sitting in my work space over the past few weeks. while still functional, starting to look a bit janky.

may have found a solution to get a subwoofer mounted. will see how it works out

 

[lshobie]

Is your workspace inside or outside? Hot? Just curious, have always wondered how good the fiberglass cruiser stuff is.

 

[crushers]

when fitting 9 different hand made components together into one assembly such as a front clip of a 40 there is variants to take into consideration.
the hood is the one piece that has the flex needed to adapt for the irregularities. the hood was aprox 5/8" out of alignement on the RH front corner. once the hood is latched the gap is square. there is no adjustments that can be made to correct that concern.
you have to remember you are trying to align a hood, 2 fender skirts, 2 fenders, 2 fender supports, a bib and tub all at once. all but the fender supports and the skirts are hand made.

it is one of the issues that you have to accept to have a body that can not rust or dent.

cheers

 

[OtterX]

Is your workspace inside or outside? Hot? Just curious, have always wondered how good the fiberglass cruiser stuff is.

my workspace is inside. temps in my area is about 50-70 since i took delivery of this rig. been outside 1 day. so no exposure to sun or heat from sun, nor sub freezing either.

so far just from my own observations and PMs from fellow mudders, a properly primed and finished sheet metal body in my environment and my driving habits would have been probably good enough for me the next 10-20 years with out any egregious rot or damage. while there is no doubt that the no rust and other "performance" virtues of a fiberglas body can be sung quite loudly, i would not personally recommend spending the $35K(? can't recall exactly, don't have the receipts in front of me at the moment) this fiberglas yacht guy charged for his "custom" body work if you have any sense for attention to detail or aesthetics.

i really didn't know what other fiberglas sources were out there(had been looking at TLC icon and some AL tubs) before entering this project, and placed my faith in the builder's praise for the glasser, but you should certainly do the research to find a fiberglas source that you feel comfortable with. if you have the $$$$, don't mind bubbles, misaligned panels/parts, poorly formed seams, many after market interior parts not fitting (like carpet kits or mats) then wayne's source might be a good option. i have no debate that this guy's fiberglas body does indeed seem solid. also, if you do have to do any reshaping to the physical blems or defects in fiberglas body work, it sands and shapes easily. i've been doing my fair share of small patch work on this since i got it. again, i am neophyte and this is just my 2 cents from what i observed so far. hope it helps provide some insights. may your decision be the right one for you.

 

[sandcruiser]

didn't realize that the body was all custom. Wow. Would have enjoyed being a fly on the wall for that part of the project. Fiberglass construction interests me, but seems a little like voodoo... probably just fear of the unknown.

It would be wonderful to know how to build decent (if not good) constructions out of 'glass. Living by the sea in the Tropics means that even "stainless" kept indoors is prone to getting some rust spots sooner or later. Amazing.

 

[lshobie]

my workspace is inside. temps in my area is about 50-70 since i took delivery of this rig. been outside 1 day. so no exposure to sun or heat from sun, nor sub freezing either.

so far just from my own observations and PMs from fellow mudders, a properly primed and finished sheet metal body in my environment and my driving habits would have been probably good enough for me the next 10-20 years with out any egregious rot or damage. while there is no doubt that the no rust and other "performance" virtues of a fiberglas body can be sung quite loudly, i would not personally recommend spending the $35K(? can't recall exactly, don't have the receipts in front of me at the moment) this fiberglas yacht guy charged for his "custom" body work if you have any sense for attention to detail or aesthetics.

i really didn't know what other fiberglas sources were out there(had been looking at TLC icon and some AL tubs) before entering this project, and placed my faith in the builder's praise for the glasser, but you should certainly do the research to find a fiberglas source that you feel comfortable with. if you have the $$$$, don't mind bubbles, misaligned panels/parts, poorly formed seams, many after market interior parts not fitting (like carpet kits or mats) then wayne's source might be a good option. i have no debate that this guy's fiberglas body does indeed seem solid. also, if you do have to do any reshaping to the physical blems or defects in fiberglas body work, it sands and shapes easily. i've been doing my fair share of small patch work on this since i got it. again, i am neophyte and this is just my 2 cents from what i observed so far. hope it helps provide some insights. may your decision be the right one for you.

Damn, sorry to hear about that. I have dealt with some fiberglass repros (not cruiser) in the past and have never been happy with them - you just can't replicate a piece of sheet metal with fiberglass in my opinion. I had heard that the aluminum tubs have their fare share of fitment issues as well - but no one likes to do body work anymore so options are limited.

Around 35K for all that stuff??? wow man - that's steep for what you got, you should speak with gozzard and get some reimbursement for the repairs you are doing, anyone worth their salt should would come good for this.

Louis

 

[crushers]

email sent

 

[OtterX]

Damn, sorry to hear about that. I have dealt with some fiberglass repros (not cruiser) in the past and have never been happy with them - you just can't replicate a piece of sheet metal with fiberglass in my opinion. I had heard that the aluminum tubs have their fare share of fitment issues as well - but no one likes to do body work anymore so options are limited.

Around 35K for all that stuff??? wow man - that's steep for what you got, you should speak with gozzard and get some reimbursement for the repairs you are doing, anyone worth their salt should would come good for this.

Louis

def a tough call on fg or al tubs. seems like both certainly have their pros and cons.

not sure what recourse i have, being in the states and gozzard in canada. from wayne said to me, gozzard is a curmudgeon and his answer to his work was, "...it is, what it is..."

 

[OtterX]

email sent

great, thanks for the msg. i'll check my mail box shortly. haven't heard a peep out of ya, been waiting for those manuals you promised to send weeks ago. btw the AC unit info/paper work was missing from the folder you said it was in there when you handed it over, so hopefully its in the box with the manuals coming down. i need any of the AC schematics you may still have b/c i have to dismantle and drop the AC unit down from the dash to access the warm and fresh air switches you installed backwards.

also, would machine screws work instead of rivets be ok to secure the windshield screw down knob mounting plates you forgot to mount into the dash?

cheers,

 

[AATLAS1X]

also, would machine screws work instead of rivets be ok to secure the windshield screw down knob mounting plates you forgot to mount into the dash?

cheers,

Don's use any kind of screw through fiberglass, it will be like a file to the glass over time.

I seen him used "Nut Certs" in places, those are the s***! Aluminum is the way to go with those, I have a snap-on tool I bought years ago for installing them with ease. I had a great idea that never left my head , never used it and it's yours if you should need it.

EDIT ( I really need to proof read s*** before I post, or quit posting at work) and stay off the drugs!

 

[OtterX]

Don's use any kind of screw through fiberglass, it will be like a file to the glass over time.

I seen he used Nut certs in places, those are the s***! Aluminum is the way to go with those, I have a snap-on tool I bought years ago for installing them with ease. I had a great idea, never used it if you should need it.

roger that buddy. thanks for the tip. be emailing you soon about that and other stuff.

btw, getting a good inet connectivity for the moment!

 

[sandcruiser]

x2 on nutserts. they are just plain cool. probably especially good in fiberglass.

 

[Christian]

I haven't tried alu-nutserts, but broke the 600 $ tool and almost my jaw on some stainless ones, so beware! Sorry to hear about your issues, I hope you get time to enjoy the truck anyways!

 

[SabreTooth]

great, thanks for the msg. i'll check my mail box shortly. haven't heard a peep out of ya, been waiting for those manuals you promised to send weeks ago. btw the AC unit info/paper work was missing from the folder you said it was in there when you handed it over, so hopefully its in the box with the manuals coming down. i need any of the AC schematics you may still have b/c i have to dismantle and drop the AC unit down from the dash to access the warm and fresh air switches you installed backwards.

also, would machine screws work instead of rivets be ok to secure the windshield screw down knob mounting plates you forgot to mount into the dash?

cheers,

Gentlemen,

In keeping up with this build and post delivery issues I note a distinct change in tone in the relationship between customer and supplier of said services.

Professionally, as an engineer, I have been on both sides of the customer and vendor relationship and it is often difficult to see the forest for the trees when dealing with requirements and meeting thereof. Taking a step back, what one should remember is that there are always two sides to a coin. Whilst I'm sure there are aspects of the fit & finish that Wayne would have done differently if he could take it back, it is also in the customer's best interest to clearly define the required standards and budget and accept or reject work as it is completed.

I don't know many of the details surrounding this vehicle and its build, other than what is stated in this thread. What I do know is that it is an exceptionally nice truck (from the distance it can be seen from in the pictures) that many on this forum would be ecstatic to own, myself included, though not perhaps at the implied price. I do hope that Wayne comes through with commitments he has agreed to fulfill. I also hope that the rest of the thread concentrates on the technical aspects of what one can, cannot, should or shouldn't do when attempting such a build and doesn't end up in the emotional space.

Landcruisers always require additional work (especially when they get wheeled). They are like houses and gardens, never truly finished.

Best regards,

Jim

P.S. For full disclosure, I do know Wayne quite well. I am neither advocating nor discounting his work. What I do know is that his heart is in the right place.

 

[OtterX]

Gentlemen,

In keeping up with this build and post delivery issues I note a distinct change in tone in the relationship between customer and supplier of said services.

Professionally, as an engineer, I have been on both sides of the customer and vendor relationship and it is often difficult to see the forest for the trees when dealing with requirements and meeting thereof. Taking a step back, what one should remember is that there are always two sides to a coin. Whilst I'm sure there are aspects of the fit & finish that Wayne would have done differently if he could take it back, it is also in the customer's best interest to clearly define the required standards and budget and accept or reject work as it is completed.

I don't know many of the details surrounding this vehicle and its build, other than what is stated in this thread. What I do know is that it is an exceptionally nice truck (from the distance it can be seen from in the pictures) that many on this forum would be ecstatic to own, myself included, though not perhaps at the implied price. I do hope that Wayne comes through with commitments he has agreed to fulfill. I also hope that the rest of the thread concentrates on the technical aspects of what one can, cannot, should or shouldn't do when attempting such a build and doesn't end up in the emotional space.

Landcruisers always require additional work (especially when they get wheeled). They are like houses and gardens, never truly finished.

Best regards,

Jim

P.S. For full disclosure, I do know Wayne quite well. I am neither advocating nor discounting his work. What I do know is that his heart is in the right place.

thanks for your input sabre.

my turn on this thread is to seek advice from the experienced, and illustrate the (as yourself noted, "landcruisers require ongoing work") the work i am engaged on this rig. some of it is fun, certainly educational thru by doing it hands on, and yes, some not so fun.

my comments have been objective and matter of fact. my initial observations of wayne as an impressive wheeler, and experienced fj40 conceptual "engineer" have not changed.

i would like to continue sharing my ongoing efforts as objectively as possible with this rig; obviously as a neophyte, for members to gain insights and any other newbies, to learn along with me . i do have over 20 years in working on vintage BMW motorcycles, and Vespas. 13 years as an industrial designer and CEO, and also heavily involved in manufacturing, production, supply, and customer service; tough acts to balance for sure and not always as successful in balancing as i would like.

so, my experience in the wrenching world is not so limited. while it can be said its like comparing apples to oranges, they're all fruit and certain givens and basic expectations in this context, are to be understood, as well as taking pride in one's vehicle work for one's self or as a paid job for others.

as i typically work 6 days a week and recently, 7 days a week(i love my work), i have been quite anxious to find time to work on it and get this rig actually road "worthy"(non functioning wipers is kind of tough to drive in the rain, wiring shorts, more loose and untightened bolts than i can count, and the bleeding power steering fluid has proven to be ongoing), actually enjoy it, and eventually daily drivable.

since its delivery, i have not been able drive it since its one test day and then one day after a few weeks ago to get it to someone who is helping me with the power steering problem.

i am far from being "well off", and over 2 years i spent every extra penny i had on this build, and it has pretty much cleaned me out. fortunately i am not married or have kids to worry about financially. at this point in my life, i get to put my play money into dude-projects without too many constraints. ;p

to be candid, it makes me wince to acknowledge this, but at the end, all the receipts finally totaled between labor to wayne, parts, paint, donor, fiberglass, delivery, etc, i was well into the TLC Icon realm of expenses and a year past ETA of what john said he could have delivered a custom rig to me when i spoke to him prior to selecting wayne as the builder.

ultimately, i am the only one responsible for my decisions, and choices on the truck as they were presented to me by an "expert" i chose to place my faith and trust in.

that being said, i remain to have a long list of things, mostly "minor", but still a long list of tasks to tackle on the rig, be it my own mods, or things that wayne did or did not do upon delivery. i will continue to share my experiences on this rig as i go along in this thread as long as i am welcome, and i think most will find it mildly interesting and hopefully moderately insightful at the least.

i am currently 8000 miles from home but when i get back i would be more than happy to take some more close ups so people can see the difference in appearance of this rig from 1' away versus 10' away. it may shed additional light on any one interested in a gozzard fg body.

if wayne, or anyone else is available for input and advice in this thread during my ongoing work, it is more than welcome!

cheers,

ps, for a little levity:

versus

not that i am a tennis fanatic, but...to illustrate: both certainly have solid drive trains, sound motors, and arguably capable in their intent and personal taste. however, i am the type of individual where the top choice has much more appeal to me at the end of the day. nothing wrong with that in my book