Yep - they actually run the same crank (for a given year)
1HD-T Engine Failure - Calgary, AB - Advice/Tips welcome!!
- Thread starter zipdoa
- Start date
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Cool. I guess I have a 1hdt crank shaft sitting in my garage then. That's a bonus.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
HD-T rods and pistons use a larger wrist pin than HZ. A common upgrade when rebuilding HZ for a turbo install is to run HD-T rods, and turbo spec pistons (HD-T wrist pin)
Crank is the same.
HD-FT IP is very different. Different cam plate profile delivers a lot more fuel mid range, and injection pressures are double that of HD-T
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Sounds like you bought a pup. No matter how much you rub it, you can't polish a turd.
A lot of what you describe is not normal, not typically of a hdj80.
20l/100km screams "problems".
My hdj81 fueled up on a stock turbo would do 15-16l/100km every day of the week driven hard in traffic.
Mine loved the cold weather. Anything sub 10c it ran much better. Loved cold, dense air.
I also have a HZJ105, and its definitely got more creature comforts to it.
Do turbo HZ engines break rods and wrist pins if there not upgraded then?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Cracked piston crowns are not uncommon in turbo HZ. Never heard of a rod failure.
I think it's a while you're in there deal
I think it's a while you're in there deal
I was thinking the same thing. The worst fuel economy I've seen is 17l/100km and that was after doing short trips and having the truck tuned where the shop was doing WOT hill runs to get it all set up. Usually, in heavy commuting traffic I see 13l/100km or a bit less.
Where I'm located, it doesn't usually get too cold, but it's been around -8 C lately in the mornings. The truck is a bit smokey on start up, but after driving a bit it definitely cleans up, and once the coolant reaches around 60 C (not sure what the oil is at) the truck runs really well.
Ahh k.
Zipdoa have you ever gotten your engines timing checked. Sounds like there is something going on with it. I use to feel the same as you about all of little frustrating things on my 60 series. Finally I decided to sell it and fixed all that pesky stuff and after doing that it was actually a nice relaxing fun truck to drive. Should have taken the time to fix that stuff years ago. Now someone else gets to enjoy it.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Having an old Cruiser as DD it's hard .. I did it for a while but it will depend on how much time ( or $$$ ) you have available to keep fixing stuff .. and while you do it right the first time, again it's an old rig, some parts might not be available, that means you will need to create, adapt to make it work .. and it will wok for a while, until you need to fix / create / swap something else ..
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Sounds like you tried to love the 80 but it just wasn't working out for you. It's unfortunate, but everyone hast their own tastes in LC's.
- Thread starter
- #92
That’s the plan, I bought the SST and I’ll check it out. The motor was timed without the tool when it was rebuilt, the builder advanced it slightly from the factory timing mark. Other things I’m checking are the washers under the injectors and getting clear fuel lines connected to the IP.
My motor is a 1990 build but I had the pump and injectors modified to accommodate the later 92+ style 42.4mm pistons. I assume those are working fine since they only have 20,000km since being rebuilt (as does the motor.
There’s a lot of residual oil that collects around the intake piping (mostly from the charge hose off the turbo) so I wonder if those flaps in the valve cover need adjustment or if something else needs to be addressed.
Either way, will get just over 350km on 83L of fuel this tank. It gets started in -28c every morning and the trips are short, so I’m sure that contributes, but it’s still unaffordably inefficient.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Setting timing by aligning pump to marks on the housing is woefully inaccurate!
You seriously should be seeing around half that level of fuel consumption. (Between 12-15l/100km would be a normal range)
A very small shift in pump timing will make a big change!
Going from the low end of factory timing spec, to the high end only takes a mm or two of rotation of the pump housing.
The match marks on the pump housing might just getting you through the gate into the parking lot at the ball park. You really need to set timing properly.
In regards to oil in the intake, fit a quality catch can to the PCV hose, then vent to atmosphere.
In my experience, bending the tabs under the rocker cover won't change a thing.
Next question, what was done to run it in a rebuild?
Really common for people to wrap a rebuilt engine in cotton wool and baby it.
For diesel engines, it means it will not get run in properly, rings don't get bedded in.
Then people experience oil consumption and blow by.
Plan a couple of weekends of spirited driving through the mountains somewhere (after you reset pump timing). Go and take all your disappointment and frustrations out on it. Drive it like you stole it. REV the snot out of it. Bed it in or break it. Get it HOT
Mine loved cold weather. Started instantaneously, ran crisp! Was noticeably different the way it ran.
If you're doing short trips in -28c, maybe you need to put a blind over 1/2 - 2/3 of the radiator so it comes up to temp
You seriously should be seeing around half that level of fuel consumption. (Between 12-15l/100km would be a normal range)
A very small shift in pump timing will make a big change!
Going from the low end of factory timing spec, to the high end only takes a mm or two of rotation of the pump housing.
The match marks on the pump housing might just getting you through the gate into the parking lot at the ball park. You really need to set timing properly.
In regards to oil in the intake, fit a quality catch can to the PCV hose, then vent to atmosphere.
In my experience, bending the tabs under the rocker cover won't change a thing.
Next question, what was done to run it in a rebuild?
Really common for people to wrap a rebuilt engine in cotton wool and baby it.
For diesel engines, it means it will not get run in properly, rings don't get bedded in.
Then people experience oil consumption and blow by.
Plan a couple of weekends of spirited driving through the mountains somewhere (after you reset pump timing). Go and take all your disappointment and frustrations out on it. Drive it like you stole it. REV the snot out of it. Bed it in or break it. Get it HOT
Mine loved cold weather. Started instantaneously, ran crisp! Was noticeably different the way it ran.
If you're doing short trips in -28c, maybe you need to put a blind over 1/2 - 2/3 of the radiator so it comes up to temp
- Thread starter
- #95
It definitely wasn't driven nicely, but I didn't get to tow a heavy load like I initially planned to break it in. Oil consumption is negligible each time it gets changed.
No biggie, it was only $110. I appreciate it though - are you local in Calgary?
IP + Injectors done by Okanagan Diesel Tuning - this is what they said about the build:
“I tested the injectors, and they dont require nozzles. Operation is like new. I will, however, need to adjust the pre-lift, and reset the 2nd opening pressure, as it differs from 90-92 spec by around 400psi. They will be fully cleaned and refurbished. I am tracking down the thicker base gaskets that are necessary for proper engine operation with your choice of pistons. They have been done once before and the previous shop/installer used non-toyota gaskets, which is a no-no.
As for the pump, it will require full teardown, as the parts required to match your setup (pistons and injectors) require many parts to be changed out. The camplate, advance mechanism, throttle shaft and spring, and a few other small things are completely different or updated parts for the 93+ models.
Also, I need to know if your truck is automatic trans or manual.
I can then verify the proper pump number and base settings, and we may be able to find a complete pump at a more competitive price to build up instead of patching together a frankenstein pump. Because some parts are either discontinued or unavailable from Denso, it may be difficult to build a truly 100% 93+ pump using your 1990-91 pump. The 1hdt is pretty finicky, so I am not a huge fan of using incorrect bits in the pumps whenever possible. Especially when you are building a brand new new motor.
I can give you a quote on either option and you can decide what you want to do.”
I did opt to build my ‘frankenpump’ since I could not find a later model pump back in 2016.
Motor was built by a mudder.
No clue why fuel consumption is so bad. Hopefully adjusting timing makes a difference. Calipers definitely aren’t sticking. Diffs all have fresh 75w90. Tcase is freshly rebuilt and trans has 60k ish on a rebuild and it’s running dex3 syn.
Motor just doesn’t feel very torquey. My old TDI felt livelier (I’m sure having a VGT helped).
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think, start with setting the timing. From everything you've said has been done, it really stands out as first thing to look at.
It would be a shame to miss out on enjoying what should be a fun truck to drive for the sake of a couple of hours shed time.
It would be a shame to miss out on enjoying what should be a fun truck to drive for the sake of a couple of hours shed time.
- Thread starter
- #99
Alright - I got the timing tool. Following the FSM to check timing, I have to set the Cam, IP and Crank to TDC.
Cam and IP line up together at TDC, but the crank is slightly off - Could this explain all my issues?
Cam and IP line up together at TDC, but the crank is slightly off - Could this explain all my issues?
Boy, it looks pretty damn close to me really. If it was truly off a tooth it'd be way more than that.
