1HD-T Engine Failure - Calgary, AB - Advice/Tips welcome!!

[zipdoa]

So you're probably wondering what happened. So am I. My HDJ81 died suddenly while driving two weeks ago. Dropped it off at the shop, they pulled the head, promptly informed me that I need the top and bottom end rebuilt, possibly regrind the crank, service injectors, service injection pump.

This is all a fairly big shock, considering I bought this 2 months ago for about $10k. It ran fine when I bought it, and P/O said that TB and BEB's were done by ATEB. I drove it to Colorado and back, and aside snapping a A/C belt, it ran fine. I find it to be very smokey, and very embarrassing to drive with someone behind me.

Any tips on who can fix this engine? I'm not exactly made of money, and the shop I'm at now is thinking it will exceed the purchase price of the vehicle.

Here's my shortblock:

 

[Rock40]

Holy cow man! Was the shop able to tell you what failed so horribly? The video makes it look like the holes in the top of the pistons were caused by the valves. Did the timing belt go?

My buddy and I still have a total of 3 HD-T's with matching 5 speed manuals for sale here in WA state. Well, he's selling his currently and I'm holding onto the one I have until my diesel swap is done. I'm sure he'd be willing to work out a deal if you just want the HD-T without the transmission. But....you'll still need to have the BEB's done and at least the timing belt. I know, not cheap and a lot of screwing around. Let me know if I can help in anyway, Ross

 

[zipdoa]

Holy cow man! Was the shop able to tell you what failed so horribly? The video makes it look like the holes in the top of the pistons were caused by the valves. Did the timing belt go?

My buddy and I still have a total of 3 HD-T's with matching 5 speed manuals for sale here in WA state. Well, he's selling his currently and I'm holding onto the one I have until my diesel swap is done. I'm sure he'd be willing to work out a deal if you just want the HD-T without the transmission. But....you'll still need to have the BEB's done and at least the timing belt. I know, not cheap and a lot of screwing around. Let me know if I can help in anyway, Ross

Here's the details from the shop:

1.VEHICLE AT 30KM HIGH SCHREEING

INCREASES IN PITCH AND SPEED WHEN

LET OFF THROTTLE NOISE GOES AWAY-CUSTOMER WAS DRIVING AND THEN THE

ENGINE RUMBLED AND DIED-ALL LIGHTS

CAME ON AND WAS NOT ABLE TO GET IT STARTED HEARD A LOUD CLICK

230.00 2.00

INSPECTED FOR ENGINE NOISE AND QUIT

RUNNING-CHECKED OIL AND IT IS OK. ATTEMPTED TO

START-HARSH STARTER ENGAGE BUT ENGINE NOT RUNING

OVER.A COUPLE MORE ATTEMPTS ENGINE DID TURN AND

THEN RAPID CLICKING-BATTERIES WEAK. BOOSTED

VEHICLE-IT DID START BUT WOULD NOT STAY RUNNING (NO

NOISE NOTED YET) AFTER COUPLE MORE STARTS ENGINE

WOULD STAY DRUNNING BUT RUNNING ROUGH AND THEN

FINALLY SMOOTH OUT.ENGINE TICKING IS QUITE LOUD AT

THIS PROGRESSED.PERFORMED MASTER OF PRESSURE

TEST TO CONFIRM GOOD OIL PRESSURE (GAUGE READS

VERY LOW) TEST IS GOOD AT 30PSI IDLE AND 52 AT 1500

RPM.NOTED WHEN ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN A METALLIC

NOISE WINDS DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS AFTER.

CHECKED TURBO IMPRELLER AND IT IS OK AND NOT THE

CAUSE.FOUND NOISE IS FROM STARTER-REMOVED FOR

SUBLET

2.INSTALLED STARTER 149.50 1.30

3.VEHICLE TOWED IN 140.98

INV# 1829312068

4.VEHICLE QUIT AFTER SHORT ROAD TEST

AND OULD NOT RESTART WHILE CRANKING

ENGINE LOCKS UP MOMENTARILY AND

THEN TRIES TO START BUT WON'T STAY

RUNNING. REMOVED GLOW PLUGS AND #5

INJECTOR TO #1 CLYINDER-STARTED OK

BUT RUNNING WITH A MISS.CRACKED INJECTOR LINE

230.00 2.00

TO PINPOINT CYLINDER AND FOUND #5 AT

FAULT...COMPRESSION? REVED ENGINE FOR A BIT AND THE

ENGINE SMOOHTED OUT AND HEAVY TICK/KNOCK WENT

AWAY COMPLETELY.RECOMMEND AT THIS POINT TO REMOVE

CYLINDER HEAD AND INVESTIGATE-POSSIBLE STICKY GUIDE/SPRING OR VALVE CONTACT WITH PISTON

5.REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD AND FOUND #5

PISTON HAS BEEN HITTING CYLINDER

HEAD-WAS ABLE TO MOVE #5 PISTON UP

AND DOWN BY APPROX .050 THOUSANDS

OF AN INCH-INDICATING BOTTOM END AND

ROD BEARING FAILURE.BOTTOM END WILL

NEED TO BE ADDRESSED AS WELL AS RECOMMEND TESTING PUMP

 

[IanB]

Notes seem to indicate a BEB failure on #5. Do you have the invoice to prove the BEB services was done prior to purchase?

 

[zipdoa]

P/O claimed ATEB rebuilt the head because the HG let go and it overheated. Apparently BEB's were done at the same time. Contacting ATEB now to see if that's truth.

 

[Rock40]

Sheesh man, I hate to say it but it's very likely that more components are going to be toast if the shop keeps opening it up. Not good

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Yes, looks like BEB failure in 5.
Chances are you need
- new piston plus rings (at least #5)
- rebore or sleeve (at least #5). Maybe you are lucky and the bore looks and measures fine.
- check the crank and regrind or replace.
- all new bearings

However, it seems that this engine was not perfect before, from what you are saying. So probably the injection pump needs to be checked and maybe rebuilt, the injectors as well. and while you are at that you might as well do the head, which is likely anyway partially damaged from #5 piston hitting it.

Depending on how much you can do yourself, you are looking at up to 7k in repairs (but then you have a fully rebuilt engine)
a rough and high estimate:
1300 rebuilt kit including all bearings, seals and pistons from engine australia
1200 for a new crank, less if it can be fixed
1000 block work
1000 head work, more if you need valves
1500 injection pump
1000 injectors

lots of work hours, free if you do them yourself.

More if you want your turbo rebuilt, which I would certainly do.

Could be worth it just plunking a used engine in and selling what you have. you can get a good price for it if it is rebuildable.

cheers,
jan

 

[zipdoa]

Yes, looks like BEB failure in 5.
Chances are you need
- new piston plus rings (at least #5)
- rebore or sleeve (at least #5). Maybe you are lucky and the bore looks and measures fine.
- check the crank and regrind or replace.
- all new bearings

However, it seems that this engine was not perfect before, from what you are saying. So probably the injection pump needs to be checked and maybe rebuilt, the injectors as well. and while you are at that you might as well do the head, which is likely anyway partially damaged from #5 piston hitting it.

Depending on how much you can do yourself, you are looking at up to 7k in repairs (but then you have a fully rebuilt engine)
a rough and high estimate:
1300 rebuilt kit including all bearings, seals and pistons from engine australia
1200 for a new crank, less if it can be fixed
1000 block work
1000 head work, more if you need valves
1500 injection pump
1000 injectors

lots of work hours, free if you do them yourself.

More if you want your turbo rebuilt, which I would certainly do.

Could be worth it just plunking a used engine in and selling what you have. you can get a good price for it if it is rebuildable.

cheers,
jan

The shop mentioned the cylinder walls are scored and the crank will probably need a regrind at the minumum. Lol.

Honestly, I'm dumbfounded. Very cool vehicle, but I hope this is a HUGE lesson to anyone looking at 80-series. NOT cheap, especially on unicorn Japanese motors. I'm feeling pretty jaded at this point. I don't know how they didn't notice this when I first brought it in after I bought it.

I was offered $3000 for the vehicle as it sits at this point. I paid $10,000 for it in August, and then the shop did about $4k in work/maintenace. I bought $2k in wheels and tires... $1200 ARB bumper, $1500 Rhino Rack, $700 m12000 winch. Totally in shock at this point. Not to mention it cost me $1400 to have the shop diagnose it to this point... and now my wallet is empty.

Waiting for Jesus to come and magically rebuild this motor...

 

[roma042987]

this sucks! at least your at home and not on a trip in another country. My 12ht had a catastrophic failure in Saskatchewan earlier this year and I had to fly home from Calgary and leave my truck at the border for two months in Montana before I could go back and get it. Fortunately one of the locals in your area helped me out. I know my post isn't much help but think of it like this...it could always be a lot worse. Heck two months after that incident I totaled my 100 a week after getting it out of the body shop along with a borrowed trailer and 75k dollar fj40. My 100 wasn't insured. sooo look on the bright side.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

The shop mentioned the cylinder walls are scored and the crank will probably need a regrind at the minumum. Lol.

Honestly, I'm dumbfounded. Very cool vehicle, but I hope this is a HUGE lesson to anyone looking at 80-series. NOT cheap, especially on unicorn Japanese motors. I'm feeling pretty jaded at this point. I don't know how they didn't notice this when I first brought it in after I bought it.

I was offered $3000 for the vehicle as it sits at this point. I paid $10,000 for it in August, and then the shop did about $4k in work/maintenace. I bought $2k in wheels and tires... $1200 ARB bumper, $1500 Rhino Rack, $700 m12000 winch. Totally in shock at this point. Not to mention it cost me $1400 to have the shop diagnose it to this point... and now my wallet is empty.

Waiting for Jesus to come and magically rebuild this motor...

3k is very low, especially if the engine is rebuildable.
I would just start slowly doing things yourself, and put money into it when it comes along. Take the engine out yourself, dismantle it, bring it to a machine shop. For the first 1000 you can get the cylinders rehoned and the bad one sleeved. Next make sure the head is good, and so on. You cannot order the rebuild kit anyway, before you have done the block.

Before you sell it for 3k, part it out. The turbo system alone should bring you 1k, the rebuildable block and head another 2k. All the attachments to the engine, and then the truck itself will be quite some more money.

But if you like it, take time and fix it...

The 1HDT's have their problems. Everyone knows it, but few talk about it. The BEB thing is huge and catastrophic when neglected. There were broken cranks, and the cooling of cylinders 5 and 6 is poor and they burn out. The IPs have weird idle drop problems and the ACSD can ruin your day.
If the thing is running well and has been maintained well they are good engines, but often that is not the case.

 

[sailor]

@zipdoa i was looking at your very first thread and noticed in the pictures that the head appeared rusty? See,s inconsistent with a recent head rebuild. In fact the whole engine bay looked a bit ropey... Let us know if you can confirm these services were performed or if you have invoices? Would suck if you were misled.....

 

[Locked79]

Holy cow man! Was the shop able to tell you what failed so horribly? The video makes it look like the holes in the top of the pistons were caused by the valves. Did the timing belt go?

The holes in the pistons come standard from the factory

 

[zipdoa]

@zipdoa i was looking at your very first thread and noticed in the pictures that the head appeared rusty? See,s inconsistent with a recent head rebuild. In fact the whole engine bay looked a bit ropey... Let us know if you can confirm these services were performed or if you have invoices? Would suck if you were misled.....

I'm following up with ATEB today, not that it will make much difference. P/O said ATEB did TB service, rebuilt head, rebuilt transmission.

 

[maat]

Here's the details from the shop:

1.VEHICLE AT 30KM HIGH SCHREEING

INCREASES IN PITCH AND SPEED WHEN

LET OFF THROTTLE NOISE GOES AWAY-CUSTOMER WAS DRIVING AND THEN THE

ENGINE RUMBLED AND DIED-ALL LIGHTS

CAME ON AND WAS NOT ABLE TO GET IT STARTED HEARD A LOUD CLICK

230.00 2.00

INSPECTED FOR ENGINE NOISE AND QUIT

RUNNING-CHECKED OIL AND IT IS OK. ATTEMPTED TO

START-HARSH STARTER ENGAGE BUT ENGINE NOT RUNING

OVER.A COUPLE MORE ATTEMPTS ENGINE DID TURN AND

THEN RAPID CLICKING-BATTERIES WEAK. BOOSTED

VEHICLE-IT DID START BUT WOULD NOT STAY RUNNING (NO

NOISE NOTED YET) AFTER COUPLE MORE STARTS ENGINE

WOULD STAY DRUNNING BUT RUNNING ROUGH AND THEN

FINALLY SMOOTH OUT.ENGINE TICKING IS QUITE LOUD AT

THIS PROGRESSED.PERFORMED MASTER OF PRESSURE

TEST TO CONFIRM GOOD OIL PRESSURE (GAUGE READS

VERY LOW) TEST IS GOOD AT 30PSI IDLE AND 52 AT 1500

RPM.NOTED WHEN ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN A METALLIC

NOISE WINDS DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS AFTER.

CHECKED TURBO IMPRELLER AND IT IS OK AND NOT THE

CAUSE.FOUND NOISE IS FROM STARTER-REMOVED FOR

SUBLET

2.INSTALLED STARTER 149.50 1.30

3.VEHICLE TOWED IN 140.98

INV# 1829312068

4.VEHICLE QUIT AFTER SHORT ROAD TEST

AND OULD NOT RESTART WHILE CRANKING

ENGINE LOCKS UP MOMENTARILY AND

THEN TRIES TO START BUT WON'T STAY

RUNNING. REMOVED GLOW PLUGS AND #5

INJECTOR TO #1 CLYINDER-STARTED OK

BUT RUNNING WITH A MISS.CRACKED INJECTOR LINE

230.00 2.00

TO PINPOINT CYLINDER AND FOUND #5 AT

FAULT...COMPRESSION? REVED ENGINE FOR A BIT AND THE

ENGINE SMOOHTED OUT AND HEAVY TICK/KNOCK WENT

AWAY COMPLETELY.RECOMMEND AT THIS POINT TO REMOVE

CYLINDER HEAD AND INVESTIGATE-POSSIBLE STICKY GUIDE/SPRING OR VALVE CONTACT WITH PISTON

5.REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD AND FOUND #5

PISTON HAS BEEN HITTING CYLINDER

HEAD-WAS ABLE TO MOVE #5 PISTON UP

AND DOWN BY APPROX .050 THOUSANDS

OF AN INCH-INDICATING BOTTOM END AND

ROD BEARING FAILURE.BOTTOM END WILL

NEED TO BE ADDRESSED AS WELL AS RECOMMEND TESTING PUMP

this is the worst post ever wtf dude. get your s*** together

 

[zipdoa]

this is the worst post ever wtf dude. get your s*** together

I'm going to have to give you the honors here, dude.

 

[maat]

re read it.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Resurrect the old bastard. I know that personally I would not even think twice about rebuilding my 12ht if it canned on me... Though the thought is terrible, it has crossed my mind a few times since I did the swap. It's inevitable whether it happens at 150k, 200k, 250k, etc.

For me personally there is a sense of pride owning a toyota diesel. Maybe its from the weird looks I get when people assume that it's a 4bt and I tell them that its a JDM, maybe its due to the fact that it's meant to be in a land cruiser, or who knows maybe I am naive. But regardless, you have my vote to do a re-build.

 

[maat]

Resurrect the old bastard. I know that personally I would not even think twice about rebuilding my 12ht if it canned on me... Though the thought is terrible, it has crossed my mind a few times since I did the swap. It's inevitable whether it happens at 150k, 200k, 250k, etc.

For me personally there is a sense of pride owning a toyota diesel. Maybe its from the weird looks I get when people assume that it's a 4bt and I tell them that its a JDM, maybe its due to the fact that it's meant to be in a land cruiser, or who knows maybe I am naive. But regardless, you have my vote to do a re-build.

its a 12ht? your good for 900,000

 

[mcguirejohnson]

its a 12ht? your good for 900,000

Shiiit, I was also under the impression these bad boys produced 25+ mpg... Haha. First one to 900k km on a completely stock motor should get at least .01% toyota stock for free.

 

[Rummat81]

$3k for a non-running 20 year old SUV is actually a very good offer.