1HD-T Engine Failure - Calgary, AB - Advice/Tips welcome!! (1 Viewer)

Rebuild 1HD-T or source another motor?

  • Rebuild 1HD-T

    Votes: 11 64.7%
  • Source new motor

    Votes: 6 35.3%

  • Total voters
    17

IanB

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Also wondering how much factory air box/snorkel will be affecting power at 21psi?

I installed a "filter minder" device in my intake tract between the air filter and turbo, I can't barely drive around the block without it saying the filter needs changing = there's a definite restriction in the stock airbox at anything above 14psi if this device is to be trusted.
 

mudgudgeon

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Sounds like your timing adjustment is a good start
With timing set correctly, I'd revisit pump tuning next.

At 21 psi, snorkel and air box may be borderline at higher RPM, but it should run like a scalded cat.

If intake piping and manifold were cleaned when the engine was rebuilt, they shouldn't be heavily fouled up. HD-T had no EGR, so the manifold would only see a little oil from the PCV

Did you talk to the guys that built your IP about your lack of performance?
 

Tapage

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Real simple - @ 21psi with correct timing and your mods and the front driveshaft removed you should be able to peel rubber down the block. If you can't, whoever rebuilt your engine, pump or injectors...….

Watch out your clutch !
 
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What is a "must replace" when pulling the injectors? I'm obviously going to grab the 92-98 3.5mm washers that sit between the head and the injector and the gaskets as well.

Toyota 11176-27011 - WASHER
Toyota 96711-24019 - GASKET




1914718
 
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Sounds like your timing adjustment is a good start
With timing set correctly, I'd revisit pump tuning next.

At 21 psi, snorkel and air box may be borderline at higher RPM, but it should run like a scalded cat.

If intake piping and manifold were cleaned when the engine was rebuilt, they shouldn't be heavily fouled up. HD-T had no EGR, so the manifold would only see a little oil from the PCV

Did you talk to the guys that built your IP about your lack of performance?

IP has no trouble putting out tons of fuel, and when I tuned it previously I had the pin travelling to overboost fuel cut which was obviously causing issues. Added some spacers and sorted that out. Once I have an AFR meter that will help with the tune.
 
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One thing i've noticed, EGT's hold pretty steady around 1150F until I get above 3500rpm... and then they start dropping. I've tried turning the fuel up quite a bit and this still happens.
 

mudgudgeon

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IP has no trouble putting out tons of fuel, and when I tuned it previously I had the pin travelling to overboost fuel cut which was obviously causing issues. Added some spacers and sorted that out. Once I have an AFR meter that will help with the tune.


Fuel at the right time is more important than tonnes of fuel, unless you want to roll coal, then you want tonnes of fuel at the wrong time
 

AussieHJCruza

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Real simple - @ 21psi with correct timing and your mods and the front driveshaft removed you should be able to peel rubber down the block. If you can't, whoever rebuilt your engine, pump or injectors...….
If you've got enough clutch and 25psi with an airbox and snorkel to suit, you don't need the front driveshaft removed🤣

(Used to be my traffic light trick beside a TD42 patrol that thought they were good - aggro clutch release at ~2800 rpm and she'd bake front and rear for as long as desired)
 
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Is it advisable to run a filter on the end of the PCV hose when venting to atmosphere?

1915446
 
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Is it advisable to run a filter on the end of the PCV hose when venting to atmosphere?

View attachment 1915446


if you do this make sure it’ll breath well. i did this and it actually pressurized my crankcase and i ended up getting more blow by and more oil out the valve cover. when i vented straight to atmosphere it all disappeared and i get a light film only on the valve cover that i need to wipe off every two to three oil changes.
 
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Won’t rev past 3500rpm and EGT’s drop significantly after 3000rpm, however at midrange (1800-2800rpm) EGT’s are acting normal. Thoughts?
 
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As a fellow Calgarian in an 80 series. I’d join 80 series Canada on Facebook. Great group with tons of wickedly smart diesel guys. With a few in Calgary. Anyone with an 80 series in Canada should definitely join.
 

mudgudgeon

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Won’t rev past 3500rpm and EGT’s drop significantly after 3000rpm, however at midrange (1800-2800rpm) EGT’s are acting normal. Thoughts?

Sounds like you need more fuel, but . . . .


Need more info.

What turbo do you have?
What exhaust?
Intercooler?
What air filter element? OEM?
What are your EGTs for all the RPM points listed above?
Is probe in the manifold, or after the turbo?
What IP tuning if any has been done after the pump rebuild?
Who tuned it?

One thing i've noticed, EGT's hold pretty steady around 1150F until I get above 3500rpm... and then they start dropping.

If the probe is pre-turbo, and under load this suggests lots of room for more fuel.
750c (1380f) is a conservative safe max EGT limit.
I ran mine for 18months with EGTs maxing at 850c (1560f), and peaking at 900c (1600f) under extreme conditions and heavy load. When I had the engine apart there was no indication anything was too hot

May be as simple as tuning the boost compensater and IP settings

If it's been competently tuned, then yeah, question the pump rebuild, but realise tuning is a black art, and takes a load of trial and error to figure it out and get it right.
I tweaked mine constantly while daily driving over a few months with WOT runs daily up a 10% grade.

did you talk to the pump rebuilder at any point since rebuild to see if they have any advice?

In my opinion, these engines a reasonably tolerant of things like coked valves, or slightly off valve clearances, or dirty injectors.
Timing and tuning are far more critical to get right
 
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Taking a quick detour from the motor - put it on the hoist to change the oil... looks like the rear strut came out of its housing and is FUBAR.

Not looking to spend $$$$ and replace all four corners - any clue what this would be? Spring itself says "02/05 and 270751" with a picture of an EMU on it. Would like to get the single strut. Looks like i'll have to break out the oxyacetylene torch cause the bolts are toast as well.

Drained the front diff - looks like turkey gravy. Appears the front diff is sucking up all the birf grease - awesome, time for a birf job.

What parts do we recommend replacing? I suppose this would be a great time to upgrade the front brakes too. If I wanted to upgrade to the later style axles and birfs, do we recommend toyota only parts or is there a good aftermarket source?

This thing is really testing my patience at this point.
 

IanB

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Sounds like OME shocks (are they yellow?), I'm not sure you can but singles, best to replace the pair.

I used a Terrain Tamer kit when I rebuilt my front axle, Jason @ Cruisin Offroad is a dealer in Canada I think. Check you diff breather as well, if it's plugged it can cause it to suck grease past the seals as it cools.
 

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