1HD-T Engine Failure - Calgary, AB - Advice/Tips welcome!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter zipdoa
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would definitely replace the pair of shocks, not just one.
If you're going to get into the front end, get a full rebuild kit. Terrain tamer is a good option.
Go through the whole knuckle. New bearings, seals, knuckle wiper seals, reunion bearings. Remove the knuckle/steering arm studs, chase and clean threads, refit knuckle studs.
Last time I did front end work (6months ago), I decided to skip trunnion bearings, wiper seals and knuckle studs. In the months since, I have loose knuckle studs, and reckon trunnion bearings have seen better days.
I've skipped maybe 30% of the full job, now to go back in and get that last 30% takes redoing most of what was done last time.
If you're going to get into the front end, get a full rebuild kit. Terrain tamer is a good option.
Go through the whole knuckle. New bearings, seals, knuckle wiper seals, reunion bearings. Remove the knuckle/steering arm studs, chase and clean threads, refit knuckle studs.
Last time I did front end work (6months ago), I decided to skip trunnion bearings, wiper seals and knuckle studs. In the months since, I have loose knuckle studs, and reckon trunnion bearings have seen better days.
I've skipped maybe 30% of the full job, now to go back in and get that last 30% takes redoing most of what was done last time.
Check the birf and flange for wear on the splines/teeth while you're in there. If you are getting any clunking when letting off the fuel, that is likely the problem.
- Thread starter
- #144
Getting serious clunk doing that.
Looks like I need 4340560080 Birfield x2
4342160040 Flange x2
Do I also need later style hubs? 4350269046
If I recall correctly, they are the later (longer) birfs and flanges. Not 100% certain as I blindly (and happily) got everything I needed for the rebuild from @cruiseroutfit .
It's likely just the flanges you need, they wear out before the birfs it seems. Pop them off and check the teeth for wear, you don't even need to remove the wheels in most cases (aftermarket wheels may vary).
Like @IanB says you may want to wait until its apart if you can just to verify. My birfs and flanges were both worn pretty good: Drivetrain clunk/thunk solved - fj80 fzj80 hdj81
Happy to help. We (Cruiser Outfitters) stock all of the birfs, hubs, Drive flanges, and every bearing, seal & gasket on a front end. let us know if we can help!
When I changed birfs and flanges recently, the splines on the bird were nearly gone. With right down.
Hubs are the same on all 80s
Spend a few minutes and pop dust caps off the hub, remove the cclip and inspect the splines before ordering parts.
I wouldn't change birfs and leave old flanges.
I wouldn't change birfs and leave old flanges.
Been tracking along with your adventures on this rig. I don't recall all the specifics with your truck so the answers to this post might help.
Unless you want to do them as PM (order new spindles and just do them) you need to take things apart to check wear. Check where the wheel bearings ride and also the brass bushing inside the spindle. The replacement spindles are needle bearing now (what I now have in mine) but I appreciate the rational to maintain bushings. Kurt at CruiserOutfitters can supply the bushings if your bearing surfaces are good.
Spindle design - why are these different? and lots more in the 80 series section with a search.
hth's and looking forward to an update on any improvements from the pump timing.
gb
Edited for clarity
Unless you want to do them as PM (order new spindles and just do them) you need to take things apart to check wear. Check where the wheel bearings ride and also the brass bushing inside the spindle. The replacement spindles are needle bearing now (what I now have in mine) but I appreciate the rational to maintain bushings. Kurt at CruiserOutfitters can supply the bushings if your bearing surfaces are good.
Spindle design - why are these different? and lots more in the 80 series section with a search.
hth's and looking forward to an update on any improvements from the pump timing.
gb
Edited for clarity
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #153
For those interested:
Not revving to max RPM - Throttle cable issue. Adjusted it at the junction near the airbox and also at the intake manifold, revs properly now. Lots of tuning still required but I have a feeling I'll be making power this summer.
As for the front end, I'm wondering if my diff being full of birf grease would sludge things up enough to cause a significant drop in fuel economy? Well see after I do the job!
Not revving to max RPM - Throttle cable issue. Adjusted it at the junction near the airbox and also at the intake manifold, revs properly now. Lots of tuning still required but I have a feeling I'll be making power this summer.
As for the front end, I'm wondering if my diff being full of birf grease would sludge things up enough to cause a significant drop in fuel economy? Well see after I do the job!
Sounds like you've made some positive progress.
There's no way to check spindles until the hubs are stripped. It's reasonably unlikely that you'll need to change them. Unless they've been run with loose wheel bearings, or a bearing has seized, you should be good.
If you have wads of spare cash, or can't deal with downtime, order some replacements. Or, if they are in bad shape, you can usually tidy up any burrs enough to be able to button them back up, get the rig mobile again, and revisit them ASAP after getting replacements.
There's no way to check spindles until the hubs are stripped. It's reasonably unlikely that you'll need to change them. Unless they've been run with loose wheel bearings, or a bearing has seized, you should be good.
If you have wads of spare cash, or can't deal with downtime, order some replacements. Or, if they are in bad shape, you can usually tidy up any burrs enough to be able to button them back up, get the rig mobile again, and revisit them ASAP after getting replacements.
- Thread starter
- #155
I should say thank you to everyone posting in this thread, it is a big help to have support while sorting this thing out.
Anyone running the slinky suspension kit? It seems $teep but looks like it does the job best. My concern is requiring a lot of extras like adjustable panhards. Any thoughts?
Anyone running the slinky suspension kit? It seems $teep but looks like it does the job best. My concern is requiring a lot of extras like adjustable panhards. Any thoughts?
I can't see moly-grease mixing with the diff oil having any impact on fuel economy, FWIW.
Good to hear you've got full rev range back, that's got to help matters!
Also, Delta's panhard relocation bracket is a better solution than adjustable panhard brackets, really got rid of the "butt wiggle" over bumps for me.
I also don't see this effecting fuel economy. Some good advice above about the diff breather and knuckle arm studs (I have tied all my vents together, including f&r locker vents) ending up in the engine bay.
What transmission do you have again? Any calipers no releasing, ebrake our of adjustment (funny, I know, for an 80 series), backing plates pushing on ebrake pads due to rust and causing drag), etc...
gb
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #158
Forgot to answer this:
Grunter Extreme
s***ty 3" exhaust with a flowmaster muffler and stock elbow off the turbo
No Intercooler
OEM Air filter through chinese safari knockoff
Will have to re-do EGT readings now that max throttle is working
Probe is pre turbo where the manifold runners meet at the center
Tuning is all me. Off boost screw backed all the way off, nylon washer thick enough to allow ramp travel to get just shy of overboost, EGT's I have set not to exceed 1300F. Hopefully changing out the injector washers will make a difference.
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 61
- Messages
- 2,622
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
I am in the middle of installing a kit on my truck. Hopefully have her back on the ground this weekend. Initial impressions are it's all good quality gear and I'm looking forward to the drive. If you only went 50mm (do they sell the 50mm over there?) You wouldn't need to do so much. After trying to piece together springs and shocks on my last truck and never being quite happy with how it drove, I decided to do it once and do it right. Hopefully it works...
- Thread starter
- #160
Good to know. I'll probably go for the 75mm - any recommendations on what all should be modified with it?
I know brake lines, castor correction bushings, I'll check out the panhard relocation bracket IanB mentioned. Sway bar needs to be lowered as well?
Alas - saw a thread about brake booster which reminded me:
when it's extremely cold (-25'C) I have no brake boost and a very stiff pedal. Pretty scary trying to stop.
I'm guessing my booster is going too - the part number for mine is 4461060690 but it's $950 for an OEM unit. My Master Cylinder is 4720160460 and $350 for OEM. Any clue if there's cheaper parts that fit? Maybe something off the LHD cruisers?
