Wouldn't happen to have the head off still would you? Was wondering if you can take a picture of the oil orifice bolt that goes between the head and the block, front passenger side... I am missing it and it's stuffed in one of 6 boxes of parts that my Dad organized but can't remember where it's at...
Builds 1FZFE overhaul
- Thread starter concretejungle
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- #122
?? The head is still off.
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- #123
Landtank,
Would you mind posting up pics or what information you have regarding your rigging up of a gasket for the crank position sensor? I need to get on fabing one up so i can get some more work done this Friday.
What's the take on a rubber gasket plus toyota FIPG?
Would you mind posting up pics or what information you have regarding your rigging up of a gasket for the crank position sensor? I need to get on fabing one up so i can get some more work done this Friday.
What's the take on a rubber gasket plus toyota FIPG?
PAge EG129 and EG132 out of the FSM, but I think I found it. For some reason I thought it went into the hole of the head bolt.... The orifice allen head bolt inserts into the oval shaped oil gallery hole next to the head bolt/dowel hole.
mine was...
Mine was in great shape, internally. I just had my engine rebult @220k, and as it turns out, it really didn't need to be fully rebuilt-which is what we suspected initially, but once the engine is out, you might as well make it worth your while. The internals were in great shape, original hone marks were still on the cylinder walls, rings and bearings were 'like new'. I've owned this LX450 since it had ~80k miles, and i would guess that most 200k 1FZ's that have had regular oil changes are probably in pretty darn good shape internally.
I'm still glad I did the whole rebuild though, because now it doesn't leak anything, it was losing lots of oil (turns out mostly because of a bad PCV, we think), and was losing coolant, i had a soon-to-be-failing PHH, that's all HPS silicone tubing now. I can now sleep at night, and i'm confident this truck will go another 200k before needing more major work
This was rebuilt by a friend who's a former NASCAR crew chief who has been building engines since he was a teenager. I'm pretty sure this was probably LESS expensinve thank swapping to a domestic V8. A buddy and I did pull & replace the engine (basically one day for each of those) which saved me a LOT of $$$.
Faron
Mine was in great shape, internally. I just had my engine rebult @220k, and as it turns out, it really didn't need to be fully rebuilt-which is what we suspected initially, but once the engine is out, you might as well make it worth your while. The internals were in great shape, original hone marks were still on the cylinder walls, rings and bearings were 'like new'. I've owned this LX450 since it had ~80k miles, and i would guess that most 200k 1FZ's that have had regular oil changes are probably in pretty darn good shape internally.
I'm still glad I did the whole rebuild though, because now it doesn't leak anything, it was losing lots of oil (turns out mostly because of a bad PCV, we think), and was losing coolant, i had a soon-to-be-failing PHH, that's all HPS silicone tubing now. I can now sleep at night, and i'm confident this truck will go another 200k before needing more major work
This was rebuilt by a friend who's a former NASCAR crew chief who has been building engines since he was a teenager. I'm pretty sure this was probably LESS expensinve thank swapping to a domestic V8. A buddy and I did pull & replace the engine (basically one day for each of those) which saved me a LOT of $$$.
Faron
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- #126
not wanting to get too far off on a tangent here, but mine really didn't have to be overhauled to the extent i'm going. Which is good. And, which also tells me that the odds are probably in your favor if you are doing a HG replacement and trying to decide if you should dive deeper. If you have done proper oil changes and maint. you should be comfortable just slapping a new HG on and going back to long life!
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- #127
got some more accomplished today.
First a shot of the oil bung for the turbo.
Next is a nice purty picture of the black Toyota FIPG seeping out of a fresh new seal on the oil pan. Just love that!
Third pic shows the ol' double nut trick. I decided after measuring twice to cut just once and i was going to use a nut as a guide to ensure i didn't trim too much.
First a shot of the oil bung for the turbo.
Next is a nice purty picture of the black Toyota FIPG seeping out of a fresh new seal on the oil pan. Just love that!
Third pic shows the ol' double nut trick. I decided after measuring twice to cut just once and i was going to use a nut as a guide to ensure i didn't trim too much.
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- #128
couple more shots of the trimmed ARP stud. It does need around 1/4 inch trimmed to clear the cam gears.
I used a heavy duty cut off wheel for a dremel to cut the stud. That's some hard metal!
I also did get the gasket from my local dealer for the oil level sensor and bolted that in. Sorry no pics of that but it's not exciting at all.
Next is a shot of the head studs going in.
I used a heavy duty cut off wheel for a dremel to cut the stud. That's some hard metal!
I also did get the gasket from my local dealer for the oil level sensor and bolted that in. Sorry no pics of that but it's not exciting at all.
Next is a shot of the head studs going in.
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- #129
The ARP head bolts are torqued to 80 ft.-lbs culminating in a three step series. So, i chose to follow the FSM in one aspect and start the process at 30 ft.-lbs in a tightening sequence shown in the FSM. I then followed that up with a torque sequence at 60 ft.-lbs.; finally the third and last tightening sequence at 80 ft-lbs.
mmmmmm yummy metal gasket sandwich!
THe original head bolts require you to torque the head bolt to 30 ft-lbs, mark the bolt with a paint pen, turn the bolt an additional 90 degrees and then an additional 90 degrees.
QUESTION: so i did realize after the install that i did not use the supplied head bolt lubricant, but used assembly oil. The friend helping me who, after we realized that we hadn't used the supplied lube said that he has always used assembly oil in over 300 motors he has built. But he did say i should ask you all's opinion on the oil instead of the supplied product?
mmmmmm yummy metal gasket sandwich!
THe original head bolts require you to torque the head bolt to 30 ft-lbs, mark the bolt with a paint pen, turn the bolt an additional 90 degrees and then an additional 90 degrees.
QUESTION: so i did realize after the install that i did not use the supplied head bolt lubricant, but used assembly oil. The friend helping me who, after we realized that we hadn't used the supplied lube said that he has always used assembly oil in over 300 motors he has built. But he did say i should ask you all's opinion on the oil instead of the supplied product?
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- #130
will post back after i've had some dinner and a break. Going to talk valve clearances.......
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- #131
OK, to valve clearance readings.
According to the FSM, the exhaust valve clearances (cold) should read between .010 - .014. Below are my readings from the front of the motor to the back on the exhaust valves (they are in hundredths):
14--front valve
15
14
15
15
18
8
12
15
12
12
14--rear valve
Next the Intake. According to the FSM, intake clearances (cold) should read between .006 - .010. Below are my readings from the front of the motor to the back on the intake valves (they are in hundredths):
8--front valve
8
10
11
10
10
11
10
10
8
10
9--rear valve
As you can see i have a few that are concerning on the Exhaust side and only one or two on the intake side. I have a little sinus headache right now so i really don't feel like running the numbers to see what i need. After the advil kicks in i'll mic the few that are out of spec to see their size and check out the chart to see what i need.
I hope there are a few mudders that may have some of the shims i can buy from them?
According to the FSM, the exhaust valve clearances (cold) should read between .010 - .014. Below are my readings from the front of the motor to the back on the exhaust valves (they are in hundredths):
14--front valve
15
14
15
15
18
8
12
15
12
12
14--rear valve
Next the Intake. According to the FSM, intake clearances (cold) should read between .006 - .010. Below are my readings from the front of the motor to the back on the intake valves (they are in hundredths):
8--front valve
8
10
11
10
10
11
10
10
8
10
9--rear valve
As you can see i have a few that are concerning on the Exhaust side and only one or two on the intake side. I have a little sinus headache right now so i really don't feel like running the numbers to see what i need. After the advil kicks in i'll mic the few that are out of spec to see their size and check out the chart to see what i need.
I hope there are a few mudders that may have some of the shims i can buy from them?
here is the thread where I worked out the crank sensor gaskets that I use.
It's actually 2 o-rings that substitute for the original o-ring.
Crank Sensor o-rings
It's actually 2 o-rings that substitute for the original o-ring.
Crank Sensor o-rings
my guy suggested an additive of zinc on the break in period. You could also use a diesel oil.
He hates the fact that zinc has been pulled from gas engine oils due to the fact it can have adverse effects on O2 sensors.
He hates the fact that zinc has been pulled from gas engine oils due to the fact it can have adverse effects on O2 sensors.
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- #134
I have been questioning whether or not i think this would be money well spent?
Royal Purple Motor Oil
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- #135
Crank Sensor Gasket
did you find those gaskets at just any ol' auto parts store or at a Lowes/Home Depot? Just never really looked for gaskets.
Looks like i have to stop my build again to order some gaskets. Missing the thermostat housing gaskets. And, i need to order a thermostat...
That's OK, it'll give me time to make a gasket and get the valve shims figured out.
did you find those gaskets at just any ol' auto parts store or at a Lowes/Home Depot? Just never really looked for gaskets.
Looks like i have to stop my build again to order some gaskets. Missing the thermostat housing gaskets. And, i need to order a thermostat...
That's OK, it'll give me time to make a gasket and get the valve shims figured out.
I found them at an Aubuchon hardware store. They are a common size so even if you can't find that brand you should be able to match the size.
keep going, i'll need the help. a friend and i just emptied this engine bay today
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- #138
you pulled the transmission too! I think that's probably the easiest way so you can pull the wiring harness and all. I probably should have gone that route.
I crawled under the truck yesterday to look at pulling the wiring harness out and it just looks too sketchy for me right now. There were plugs that i could barely see and barely get a finger on, so without dropping the tranny i think the wiring harness will have to stay put. Bummer
I crawled under the truck yesterday to look at pulling the wiring harness out and it just looks too sketchy for me right now. There were plugs that i could barely see and barely get a finger on, so without dropping the tranny i think the wiring harness will have to stay put. Bummer
What about your rear heater lines? You would have to drop the trans to replace them as well. Not like you want to do that now but it would make life easier to do it now.
you pulled the transmission too! I think that's probably the easiest way so you can pull the wiring harness and all. I probably should have gone that route.
I crawled under the truck yesterday to look at pulling the wiring harness out and it just looks too sketchy for me right now. There were plugs that i could barely see and barely get a finger on, so without dropping the tranny i think the wiring harness will have to stay put. Bummer
yeah, i bought the engine/trans/xfer and wiring stuff, but not the rest of the vehicle, so it was easy to pull it out as one. i didnt' think we'd get it out because i was fighting soooo many of the harness connectors. my plan was to tilt the trans/xfer so i could get to the connectors better, but next thing we knew, it was all out. looking at everything, i think it is easier to pull the complete assy.
