Builds 1FZFE Engine Rebuild + Power Up (1 Viewer)

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93 land cruiser re build

I'm rebuilding also. Thought about swapping engines with low mileage used one, seems easier. Found one that has 120,000 with compression 185 to 190, is this to high?
 
Well, not before time and certainly not without its complications right to the very end, the mighty 80 had its first maiden voyage on the weekend and it was an overwhelming, oversteering success :mrgreen:

Straight off the dyno with a relatively safe tune on board and pumping out a very healthy 245RWKW and 1173Nm Torque (yes 1173Nm :shock: ) at 10psi, I loaded the old girl up and headed South into the unknown for some 'real world' testing:steer: And in case you're wondering, on and off road, this thing hauls some serious ass now. It idles as smooth as a Swiss watch and the power and torque, on or off boost, is silky smooth and simply relentless .Every cent I have spent on this project was easily justified this weekend :D

It likes a drink when you're up it for the rent but that's collateral damage in my book, however, travelling from Sydney to Camberra, fuel economy was 16.5L/100km - bearing in mind pre turbo it was 30+L/100km. I'm confident of getting into the low 15s when I swap the diff gears from 4.56 back to 4.11.

But, like all good speed junkies, I can't wait to take it back to the shop in a few weeks to really make it boogie:grinpimp:

 
Good job! Nice looking power band for sure!

Now we need it see video of it.......
 
Maaaate.

Awesome work. :grinpimp:

What year is your cruiser?
Are you having to do anything to the suspension/ brakes to cope with extra power?

Cheers
Duncan
 
Thanks guys, it sure is a weapon now and such a pleaseure to drive anywhere. From an engineering point of view there's no requirement to upgrade any of the brakes or suspension compnents, however, in the interests of having a better over all package, I'll be attending to a few things.

1st is getting the front sway bar sorted as it needs new bushes and new diff brackets made and welded on - the OEM ones are crap!
2nd will be fitting some slotted rotors to the front and renewing the front brake lines. I already run the 100s pads which works really well when the rest of the system is 100%. Ideally, I would like to look into fitting bigger, aftermarket calipers (4 or 6 spot) but we're getting into serious money territory then.
3rd is to lower the rear a couple of inches. The front has already been dropped about 60mm and is a noticeable improvement.
4th is to fit new shocks and reset all the bumpstops after being lowered.
5th is to remove the MAF (now running a MAP) and hit the dyno for a retune and to really get this puppy crankin' :steer::bounce:
 
So it's been a couple of weeks now and my sure is one damn nice ride now. The added power and torque makes a big rig like this so much nicer to drive as there's no longer the need to be rowing through the gears or revving the guts out of it to get anywhwere in a hurry.

Anyone seriously considering fitting forced induction to their 80 should really make it happen ASAP - the difference is night and day.
 
i'm trying i'm trying.... but i still have to digest the $3,000 i just spent to get my motor ready for the extra reliable power! Plus, i'm waiting on landtank to get his stuff finalized so i can pull some parts and ideas from him.
 
During a recent 6000km trip, the alledged you-beaut Walbro fuel pump gave up the ghost 1/2 way through. Luckily I'd packed the OEM pump so that was reinstalled and did a sufficient job of keeping the big bus moving along.

Upon my return, I decided to get a real fuel pump, this time, a Bosch unit, and what a unit it is :eek:
Left is the OEM pump. Right is the Bosch fuel pump. To give you some idea just how big this thing is, it's about 3x the size and 4x the weight of the OEM fuel pump.


The OEM pump sucks through a narrow tube about 8-10mm dia, that also has to very tight 90deg bends. Perfect for its intended application but this aint it. On the right is the Bosch unit. This beast sucks straight from the bottom of the pump through a fine mesh screen filter - a whole 50mm dia of pure suck-hole :D


Here it is all mounted. Had to modify the OEM bracket and feed tube slightly but it turned out bonza. I just hope the extra weight doesn't snap the bracket down the track...


Also got round to swapping the diff ratios back to standard and it now drives much better- making better use of the added power and torque.

Lastly, I removed the MAF since it was no longer needed and nothing more than a huge intake obstruction. Also fitted a Sard rising rate fuel pressure regulator (the no-name unit rattled to death) and got it retuned on the dyno. Among other things they fiddled with the throttle pump control which has now made throttle response after each gear change a whole lot crisper. On the final run it tried to jump out of the rollers on it's way to 306.7 RWKW at only 10psi. That'll do... for now :bounce2::bounce:


Just came back from 1000km trip and the big bus goes like a scalded now.
:cheers:
 
Very impressive. What was the total cost for the project?
 
Very impressive indeed! What is the model number of that Bosch pump?
 
Thanks guys, it sure is a weapon now and such a pleaseure to drive anywhere. From an engineering point of view there's no requirement to upgrade any of the brakes or suspension compnents, however, in the interests of having a better over all package, I'll be attending to a few things.

1st is getting the front sway bar sorted as it needs new bushes and new diff brackets made and welded on - the OEM ones are crap!
2nd will be fitting some slotted rotors to the front and renewing the front brake lines. I already run the 100s pads which works really well when the rest of the system is 100%. Ideally, I would like to look into fitting bigger, aftermarket calipers (4 or 6 spot) but we're getting into serious money territory then.
3rd is to lower the rear a couple of inches. The front has already been dropped about 60mm and is a noticeable improvement.
4th is to fit new shocks and reset all the bumpstops after being lowered.
5th is to remove the MAF (now running a MAP) and hit the dyno for a retune and to really get this puppy crankin' :steer::bounce:

Great work! How do you plan on lowering the truck? i've been looking for a lowering kit and cannot find one anywhere. Can you find one of those in Australia?
 
this converts to 410 wheel hp and 550 ft-lbs :bounce: at 10 psi with a nice safe tune! awesome!

I didnt see the turbo specs listed anywhere. care to post them? and many more pics while your at it :D
 
Great work! How do you plan on lowering the truck? i've been looking for a lowering kit and cannot find one anywhere. Can you find one of those in Australia?

He's going down from sky high to merely high.

Talk to King Springs, they might do something suitable, but I think you'll be in a minority wanting to go down instead of up.
 
Any updates on this? How is it running? Burned off the tires yet? What turbo did you go with? Any pictures of the turbo set-up? :popcorn:
 
Wow is this right?! 1173Nm converts to 856ft/lbs of torque, wow! That is a huge leap. That would make an 80 feel like a different truck. I would be happy with 1/2 that now I just need to wait for my engine to die. Either that or buy a used engine and rebuild it for a turbo and have it plastic wrapped and waiting....
 
hey hi guzzla, i've got a question for you, is tha a brand new head? or is the old one? that looks like new, how did the machining shop do that, and why not do it with the block to give a brand new look? thanks in advance
 

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