Builds 1FZFE Engine Rebuild + Power Up (1 Viewer)

[FeHorse]

Has anyone heard of the CX Racing turbo kit for the LC? A few on ebay.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/141008053879


How is that kit different from the turbo on this install?

 

[scottryana]

The manifold is thin cheap material, the turbo is cheap, the wastegate is cheap, the blow off valve is cheap, they don't have upgraded injectors, no upgraded fuel pump and no engine management. Other than those things it is the same.

 

[half k cruiser]

^ so your saying its pretty much the same thing.

 

[guzzla]

After spending the last couple years neck deep in turbo's, and having a solid 15+ days on a dyno with the 1FZ, I don't understand these numbers on your dyno plot.

The dyno shows around 885ft/lbs at 3310revs at that rpm the hp would have to be in the 550-560hp range as hp is just a calculation based off of torque and rpm and why the torque and hp curve always cross at 5250rpms.

Horse power = (torque ft/lbs * rpms)/5250

Additionally at the high end the hp number would have to be in the high 600's and with a GT3582 that's not possible with 30% drivetrain loss. That would mean almost 900hp at the crank and the 3582 only pumps around 67lbs/min of air.

I guess what I am saying is that the torque numbers on this must mean that the dyno was having problems? Just out of curiosity have you been on another dyno?

Any chance you could do a 0-60 for the 0-60 thread?
Thanks!

Yeah, I agree with your maths and I can't explain it as I can't remember what diff ratios and tyres I was running - maybe 4.56:1 & 35s. And funnily enough, I've seen quite a few turbo diesel dyno results with out of proportion power/torque figures too. But as you'll see further down page 3 of this thread, I posted a follow up retune dyno result which I think better fits the power vs torque equation. Pretty sure it was a different tyre and diff ratio setup for this run also. Most likely 4.11:1 and 33in.

 

[scottryana]

The reason you see diesels with unsorted numbers is because the pick up for rpms doesn't work as their is no spark plug wire to clip the lead too. So I would guess something got screwed up with your rpm pick up. All good. Just curious if you had any more data.

 

[ZA80]

Any ecu and a/f map tuning gold nuggets you guys are willing to share?

 

[scottryana]

ZA, both guzzla and myself are using stand alone systems. For me I just stick with the basic tuning rules for a turbo car erroring on the side of caution , my A/F map, is 14.6:1 at most vacuum points, 14:1, as it nears 0, 13:1 at 0 manifold pressure and tapers to 11.5:1 at 6psi, anything above 6psi is 11:1.

 

[scottryana]

Oh I also taper my boost up so that I am not asking for full boost at low rpm's, just to be nicer to the stock bottom end. If you want any screenshots of my boost or Air Fuel map just let me know.

 

[ZA80]

Thx scottryana sent you a PM with some detail as I don't want to clutter this thread with my build.
Also standalone system.

 

[HDJdreams]

I may have mentioned this somewhere else, but, i like everyone else loves the diesel motors. I want one bad.

X2!

At cruise Moab i was talking to some folks from Canada and a few folks from across the big pond and they were kind of laughing at our desire for the diesel. They said that yes, on general they get good gas mileage and have good low end torque, and they are good motors.....but then they said, they would all prefer a blown gasoline motor anytime.

That kind of stuck with me.

In the western US, we have 80 mph freeways going over 10,000 ft passes. My STOCK 05 Ram 5.9 Cummins 4x4 was able to go over Vail pass at the speed limit in 6th gear on cruise control no sweat, loaded and towing a 6000 lb trailer (small for that truck I know). That same truck which is much heavier than my 80 and was poorly geared for economy got 18-19 mpg where my 80 would get 13-14 mpg.

Ford and GM diesels offer similar performance, all 3 offer huge tuning capacity.

Myself and many other Americans imagine the 1HD as being a scaled down 5.9 Cummins that fits in an 80, and is smoother and quieter. We have visions of endless torque while getting better mpg than our big diesel trucks.

Sounds like the reality does match our hopes. :-( When I wade through the diesel swap thread, sounds like a lot of them don't break 20 mpg, especially if it was tuned to at least keep up with a stock 1FZ. Some of the LS swaps were reporting similar mpgs as the diesel swaps. I would be very disappointed if I did a diesel swap and did not break 20 mpg.

I appreciate this detailed turbo thread, I am trying to decide if I am up to a DIY turbo on my 1FZ or stick with a bolt on supercharger.

 

[Tapage]

The way I see it .. you don't do a diesel Swap ( specially with an 1HD-T / FT / FTE ) for economy .. you do it coz you like Diesel and you like / want Toyota diesel that was meant to be in your 80 ..

Better power / mpg .. are just add ons to the original value ..

 

[BorisGrayman]

Hi, what is this thing? (Circled) I don't have that on my truck, but there is few empty bolt holes..

 

[concretejungle]

that is a york air compressor

 

[Mandrake]

No, it's not. Well, it may be made by York, and it is a compressor, but it is not the reciprocating York AC compressor that everyone uses as an air compressor. You wouldn't be able to use the pictured compressor to air up unless you fed it a mist of oil into its intake. The reciprocating York 210, 209 and 206 that are used as air compressors have a separate oil supply in their crank case and are splash lubricated the same way a lawn mower engine is.

Picture of a York 210 as a comparison:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/oba-008-jpg.86681/

 

[flintknapper]

Picture of a York 210 as a comparison:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/oba-008-jpg.86681/

^^^^^^ Yep, have 3 real nice ones sitting in my shop.

 

[kdubbya]

Hi, what is this thing? (Circled) I don't have that on my truck, but there is few empty bolt holes..

View attachment 1682329

Did anyone ever resolve if this is just the a/c compressor relocated to the upper position? If so, is a bracket required or does it bolt directly to the existing holes in the head?