1FZ power steering pump replacement... (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruiserdan
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I recently helped change one of these on a '96. I noticed that Toyota has upgraded the sealing washer at the high pressure port. The old style used copper washers, the new style uses an aluminum one piece double washer that makes it impossible to put on the wrong way. Another nice silent upgrade by Mr. Toy.
A small 3 jaw puller works better than a two jaw puller. That's the only change I would offer to Dan's original write up on the topic.
A small 3 jaw puller works better than a two jaw puller. That's the only change I would offer to Dan's original write up on the topic.
Power steering pump bleed
Sorry fellas but i need the mud gods to look down on me and help!!!
How does one get all the air out of the lines. Mine kept overflowing the res and pouring down the engine. DO I just let it overflow and add??? It also looks like there is a tone of tiny air bubbles in the fluid... Also do you bleed this with the cap on the res???/ Please help
Sorry fellas but i need the mud gods to look down on me and help!!!
How does one get all the air out of the lines. Mine kept overflowing the res and pouring down the engine. DO I just let it overflow and add??? It also looks like there is a tone of tiny air bubbles in the fluid... Also do you bleed this with the cap on the res???/ Please help
Bleeding
To bleed, I put the front end on jackstands, I filled to the cold level line, then start the truck, and slowly turned steering wheel from lock to lock, holding at full lock for a couple of seconds, then turn to the other side. Repeat back and forth. Stop truck. Check fluid level. Top off. Start truck, run steering wheel from lock to lock again. Recheck. Etc. I then lowered the truck and checked it all again.
This is basically what the FSM says to do, but they are not specific about the truck being on stands. I figured it best not to put any load on the system until I knew it was well bled.
I did prime the pump before attaching the hoses as Dan mentioned.
YMMV
R.
To bleed, I put the front end on jackstands, I filled to the cold level line, then start the truck, and slowly turned steering wheel from lock to lock, holding at full lock for a couple of seconds, then turn to the other side. Repeat back and forth. Stop truck. Check fluid level. Top off. Start truck, run steering wheel from lock to lock again. Recheck. Etc. I then lowered the truck and checked it all again.
This is basically what the FSM says to do, but they are not specific about the truck being on stands. I figured it best not to put any load on the system until I knew it was well bled.
I did prime the pump before attaching the hoses as Dan mentioned.
YMMV
R.
I had issues getting the nut off as I didn't have an impact wrench. What I did is place 2 strips of 2x1 wood in my vice jaws between them and the gear. Clamp down nice and tight and the gear bites into the wood and stays pretty well, allowing you to use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact wrench.
-Phil
I tried this at first and was never able to get my system free of air. Here is what I did to clear up my groaning issues:
to bleed, do this: fill the system to proper capacity, jack up the front end, slowly turn wheel from lock to lock about 10 times (engine off). Watch the fluid level to make sure you don't suck in more air. Put the lid back on lightly and let it sit for an hour or so. Repeat this process like 3 times. Have a friend watch and once you get to the point where there are no air bubbles coming up in the reservoir and the fluid level remains constant, you can be pretty sure you've bled it properly. It should be OK to drop it and start the engine now. Turn the wheel lock to lock a couple times and listen for moaning.
X2 on priming the pump and lines - this helps dramatically.
-Phil
Can someone confirm applicability of this write-up to a 1996 LX450?
*Should* be exactly the same.
- Thread starter
- #29
I just did this recently. I had the same issue as Dan, with the port coming loose before the fitting. After that, I wasn't able to get a wrench on to hold it while I worked at the fitting. My solution to that was to simply remove the whole shebang....high pressure hose and all, and then get the hose off the pump. This was possible because I had the flare wrenches to remove the hose fittings from the steering box.
After I got the whole thing out where i could work on it, removing the hose fitting from the pump was easy.
Removing the gear seemed a little dicey. I have a three-pronged gear puller, but have never used it before. Having cranked away on the gear puller with no apparent movement, all of the sudden the gear popped loose with a "bang". Im not sure that is the way its supposed to happen, but it seemed undamaged, and I got it back onto the new pump with no problem. I didn't have a vise handy, but had some super heavy C clamps and some extra 2x 4 s that worked OK as a substitute. Not great, just OK.
I followed the FSM bleeding procedure which basically is to put the axle up on stands and crank the steering wheel side to side repeatedely...say at least three times, and the more the better. Then you start it and crank the wheel to the end of the travel and hold it there for a while and then do the other side and check for bubbles in the reservoir. If you see them, you repeat the bleed procedure, and if they're still there, you start looking for leaks.
I think it is well worth it to have the flare wrench on hand for the hose fittings. I certainly needed it. Its a 17MM. I had considered rebuilding my pump, but after looking at how apparently complex the pump is, and the various vanes that are supposed to be measured for tolerances, I chickened out and just bought a new pump from Dan, so now I have an extra one available.
After I got the whole thing out where i could work on it, removing the hose fitting from the pump was easy.
Removing the gear seemed a little dicey. I have a three-pronged gear puller, but have never used it before. Having cranked away on the gear puller with no apparent movement, all of the sudden the gear popped loose with a "bang". Im not sure that is the way its supposed to happen, but it seemed undamaged, and I got it back onto the new pump with no problem. I didn't have a vise handy, but had some super heavy C clamps and some extra 2x 4 s that worked OK as a substitute. Not great, just OK.
I followed the FSM bleeding procedure which basically is to put the axle up on stands and crank the steering wheel side to side repeatedely...say at least three times, and the more the better. Then you start it and crank the wheel to the end of the travel and hold it there for a while and then do the other side and check for bubbles in the reservoir. If you see them, you repeat the bleed procedure, and if they're still there, you start looking for leaks.
I think it is well worth it to have the flare wrench on hand for the hose fittings. I certainly needed it. Its a 17MM. I had considered rebuilding my pump, but after looking at how apparently complex the pump is, and the various vanes that are supposed to be measured for tolerances, I chickened out and just bought a new pump from Dan, so now I have an extra one available.
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I did this job in 04 on my 97. I did not have the proper gear puller at the time so I paid a local shop to remove the gear. After I installed the new pump I had a loud whine. The gear was damaged by the shop that removed it. The damage was very hard to find. I replaced the gear and everything was fine. Bleeding was covered; had no problems with mine.
Be careful with the gear!
Be careful with the gear!
Dan,
I will be calling Monday to order some parts, my mechanic has determined that the pump needs replacement and I am losing fluid into the crank case as well. So I am sure I need some seals etc.. I may need a drive gear as well so I will be sure to talk to you and get all the items I could need for this job. Great write up and I will be referring to it when I help him do this job.
I will be calling Monday to order some parts, my mechanic has determined that the pump needs replacement and I am losing fluid into the crank case as well. So I am sure I need some seals etc.. I may need a drive gear as well so I will be sure to talk to you and get all the items I could need for this job. Great write up and I will be referring to it when I help him do this job.
Just did this the other day, my suggestion is to just remove the reservoir to save yourself the headache of working around it. I also removed my oil filter, because I didn't have an extension that was a good length to work around it. Another tip: if you don't have a nice thick glove to use for holding the pulley, you can use a big set of channel-lock pliers and a rag to protect the gear splines. Be sure to compare the height of the gear as installed before removing and reinstalling, so you don't have a ticking noise upon reassembly/reinstallation.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
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I ended up cutting the high pressure line after the nut loosened up. I had a new one ready for it. I also ended up adding loc tite to the nut after rebuilding it. I thought about adding a tack weld.
I used the strap wrench for the gear and 3 gear puller.
Even though this thread is about removal. I would like to add...becarful removing the bearing seal and don't damage the bearing that the shafts rides on.
Also, make sure to look at the vanes on reinstallation so that the rounded edges face out.
I used the strap wrench for the gear and 3 gear puller.
Even though this thread is about removal. I would like to add...becarful removing the bearing seal and don't damage the bearing that the shafts rides on.
Also, make sure to look at the vanes on reinstallation so that the rounded edges face out.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Helpful special tool : 15/16" open end crows foot wrench.
In regards to getting the the high pressure hose off of the high pressure port fitting right below it, mine is 15/16" rather than 13/16" as Dan mentions, and I could not get any regular length open end wrench in the tight space. Best to have a 15/16" open end crows foot wrench in hand before starting the job.
In regards to getting the the high pressure hose off of the high pressure port fitting right below it, mine is 15/16" rather than 13/16" as Dan mentions, and I could not get any regular length open end wrench in the tight space. Best to have a 15/16" open end crows foot wrench in hand before starting the job.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Gear pulling tip :
Here is a tip for easily pulling the gear off, even if your gear puller is cheap & weak.
1) Leave the nut in place on the shaft, unscrewed just a little.
2) Put the gear puller in place and put a medium amount of tension on it. No need for brute strength.
3) Give a sharp whack the SIDE of the nut with a brass drift & hammer, at right angle to the shaft.
The sharp impulse creates a pressure wave that releases the shaft. The same thing works for tie rod ends, pressing suspension bushings out, and cone washers on hubs.
Cheers.
Here is a tip for easily pulling the gear off, even if your gear puller is cheap & weak.
1) Leave the nut in place on the shaft, unscrewed just a little.
2) Put the gear puller in place and put a medium amount of tension on it. No need for brute strength.
3) Give a sharp whack the SIDE of the nut with a brass drift & hammer, at right angle to the shaft.
The sharp impulse creates a pressure wave that releases the shaft. The same thing works for tie rod ends, pressing suspension bushings out, and cone washers on hubs.
Cheers.
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
A Toyota part number list would be handy for this thread.
New pump, HP line, LP line, any other deals & gaskets.
Definitely! All in favor of @jjdeneen918 searching and collecting part numbers for this thread, like this post.
Wish I had seen this a month ago. My pump started self-destructing on a trail leaving my family in a bad spot. I had to pay a shop $800 to replace it
