Builds 1fz-fe rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks, really appreciate the help. I think I've determined my pics suck, can't even make out the threads that would be there either way, but this helps. I'm gonna tear it back down to make sure nothing else was missed.
 
Last edited:
Tore the engine back down to the block, the orifice was in place but I went ahead and replaced it with the new one. Decided to just go all the way back down and took the timing cover off too after seeing a video of using loctite on some of those bolts inside.

Also got the oil pan back from the local welding place and I think the oil drain bung for the new turbo kit turned out great. He said he wasn't able to fully get all the way around the exterior part of the plug (top), but was able to completely weld the inside part of the bung.

If anyone sees anything missing from the top or the front of the block as I have it pictured, please let me know as I'll be assembling soon. I already ordered all new HG and bolts cause I know if I didn't it would be on my mind as a weak point, so I'm hoping I'm good to move forward again with the timing cover and head and not have to do yet another tear down for something stupid.

engine block top.jpg


front cover off.jpg


oil pan bung.jpg
 
Got some PMs on the bung placement for the new Wits' End turbo based on my last post. Thanks again @NLXTACY for getting this to me while it is all apart.

Pics below showed the area close to the lip on the exterior that the welder couldn't get to. He did a great job on the inside so I'm confident that I should be fine and may follow up with JB weld or something on the top of the exterior side. This is following the location from post 515 on the turbo build. Not sure if there is any flexibility to go slightly further in any direction or not.

bung1.jpg
bung2.jpg
 
Made the dumb mistake of not putting the rear main seal on before putting the engine on the stand. I'm debating letting those bolts out another 1/4 inch to slide it in but worried they may shear, idk. Not sure if others have had success doing this on a stand. Also looks like where the seal rides is a bit scored. Really hoping that won't lead to a leak once all is said and done.

rear main.webp
 
So in my opinion if you are going to loosen those bolts, you really need to have the engine hooked to the engine hoist.

Made the dumb mistake of not putting the rear main seal on before putting the engine on the stand. I'm debating letting those bolts out another 1/4 inch to slide it in but worried they may shear, idk. Not sure if others have had success doing this on a stand. Also looks like where the seal rides is a bit scored. Really hoping that won't lead to a leak once all is said and done.

View attachment 2080969
 
Yeah I was already getting one ready. I think I've decided to just wait to do the whole thing last once it is on the hoist unless there is some reason it would need to be upside down. I haven't added the oil to the oil pump port. Any way to do that right side up? Or any reason I can't add the oil and turn it back right side up and finish out the rest and do the pan later?
 
Last edited:
Side question after getting past page 1 of this thread.... but what is the purpose of the two pieces of the exhaust cam gear?
 
Funny you ask as I was just talking about this piece and how it was a cool thing for Toyota to do. Basically the exhaust and intake gears mesh together, and the exhaust gear has that split in it with a spring, so that as the intake and exhaust cams wear against each other and create slack, this part of the exhaust cam spreads apart to take up that slack in the teeth between the cam gears.
Side question after getting past page 1 of this thread.... but what is the purpose of the two pieces of the exhaust cam gear?
 
Anyone know of a good procedure for flushing out the engine oil cooler? I need to put the one from my old engine on the new one and want to make sure it is clean. Can you believe that little part is $500 bucks?
 
Goes up to the back side of your throttle body
 
Coolant bypass hose number 3 I believe is it’s name
 
Connects to the bottom of the throttle body at the inlet facing the rear of the truck. See the picture but that's the upper intake so imagine it flipped over.

20191111_182057.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom