1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (1 Viewer)

[logicbyondreaso]

I did a ton of research on how I could possibly time the ACSD correctly with the pump still installed on the motor after replacing it with a new one. I could not find a way that it can be done accurately. For that reason - I removed it and put the blank on. Whenever the pump gets rebuilt, I will consider installing it.
Instead of using the barbed union to connect the existing ACSD coolant lines together, I will remove them and cap with HPS Coolant Caps 3/8".

I installed the dash and all AC components. Not a single screw left over.
Next, I worked on the radiator, condenser, and receiver replacement. Since the engine was in "service position" I took the opportunity to remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) to replace the seal, the harmonic balancer + o-ring, and new bolt with washer. Thanks for the suggestion to do this @SNLC !
I am just waiting on a torque wrench that can go up to 362 ft-lbs.
I don't remember reading anywhere that the @OTRAMM 1FZFE crank pulley holding tool will work on the 1HDT - but it does. I had to use 2 washers to stand it off a 1/4" because of the #2 crankshaft pulley centering extrusions. I had a set of 1FZFE head bolt washers from a previous job that I used for this.

Last couple items I replaced were the power steering reservoir low pressure hoses and pump/box high pressure hose. I had an OEM larger hose (connects to reservoir) but not the smaller 10mm ones. I ended up picking up 3/8" Gates transmission cooler hose from NAPA. Very tight fight as it's slightly undersized to OEM.
The high pressure hose that connects to the pump and gearbox I replaced with a 1FZFE Gates variant from Rock Auto. I had to cut off the torque tab from banjo bolt side to make it fit. Everything else bolted up. It does seem like its a bit shorter than the OEM one. What is everyone doing for replacing these? I may want to get the correct one.

 

[OGBeno]

You can purchase the correct PS cooler hoses and piping as a unit out of Japan. 44410-60230

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Thanks Beno! Though, the price tag is hefty. Maybe when the 3/8" fails.

 

[OGBeno]

Thanks Beno! Though, the price tag is hefty. Maybe when the 3/8" fails.

View attachment 3397719

I got mine from Dave and it was cheaper than that-- including the 2 day shipping from Japan.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The crank bolt has been torqued to 362 ft-lbs and the ACDS removed and ports capped. New radiator, condenser, and drier installed with added PAG oil.
I borrowed a rental tool from AutoZone to pull a vacuum on the AC system. It held but I think that pump is weak as I could not get a near full vacuum. Gauges could be off too. 24in-HG is all I got.
Next I will put the interior back together.
Upcoming - the A442F solenoids need to be inspected and full system flush.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Here is a photo of the blank plate for ACDS and the coolant ports capped.

 

[ikarus]

Looking great! Are you going to add an intercooler?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Looking great! Are you going to add an intercooler?

I am interested, especially after watching your thread. Though I am not well versed in the setup and whether or not it will work with a factory winch and electric A/C fan (rear ac on this 80).

 

[ikarus]

I am interested, especially after watching your thread. Though I am not well versed in the setup and whether or not it will work with a factory winch and electric A/C fan (rear ac on this 80).

That’s what got me thinking about it - I saw that you have the AC fan. Mine didn’t come with it but I wonder if it’s possible to use it with an IC. I’m guessing not because there’s no space in there. I guess you could go top mount but then you’d need a hood scoop… your cruiser is too OEM perfect though, probably don’t want to do that. Haha

 

[logicbyondreaso]

While I was replacing the fuel filter the original water sensor wiring broke at the sensor with no chance of repair. A new one was ordered from Australia and installed.
Everything was buttoned up and she fired right up.
Took it in to get the refrigerant charged per FSM volume below.
I will drive it a little bit and verify all systems are tight and there are no leaks.
I do have a concern for the transmission though as it has a very high and hard RPM shift from 1-2-3. Sometimes it does not want to shift unless I let off the throttle or force it to shift to 2nd via shifter lever.
I verified fluid level - it was low by a quart or so. That seemed to help some but not 100%. I am considering swapping the solenoids as the next step. So far the ones people have found on Amazon/eBay are out of stock and a full set is available for $220 from Cobra Transmission.com

 

[ikarus]

While I was replacing the fuel filter the original water sensor wiring broke at the sensor with no chance of repair. A new one was ordered from Australia and installed.
Everything was buttoned up and she fired right up.
Took it in to get the refrigerant charged per FSM volume below.
I will drive it a little bit and verify all systems are tight and there are no leaks.
I do have a concern for the transmission though as it has a very high and hard RPM shift from 1-2-3. Sometimes it does not want to shift unless I let off the throttle or force it to shift to 2nd via shifter lever.
I verified fluid level - it was low by a quart or so. That seemed to help some but not 100%. I am considering swapping the solenoids as the next step. So far the ones people have found on Amazon/eBay are out of stock and a full set is available for $220 from Cobra Transmission.com


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Do you have a part number for the water sensor? I was just wondering if I should get a spare when I changed mine last week. Seems like it could be fragile

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Do you have a part number for the water sensor? I was just wondering if I should get a spare when I changed mine last week. Seems like it could be fragile

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I always use the Toyota Red coolant. Can typically find good deals on the web with free shipping. Got a few bottles from McGeorge Toyota.
Next up will be to fix the loose hood skin and add the factory insulation. I will replace the windshield wiper tubing and nozzles for a better spray pattern.
After that - suspension and tires followed by exhaust and possibly turbo.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Dropped the transmission pan to replace all 4 solenoids and the aftermarket kickdown cable. New solenoids went in easy and I was able to install the kickdown cable without dropping the valve body.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I noticed a small coolant drip on the turbo side of the motor. It was coming from the turbo coolant pipe(s). I thought accessing it would be a breeze but the bottom nut holding it on to the flange is only accessible from under the truck. It took a combination of 10mm wrenches to get it off. Seemed like I was able to get a 1/16th rotation with each turn before having to adjust the wrench. A gear wrench was too fat to fit. Once the pipe was off the turbo I spent a good amount of time scraping off the existing gasket. It's made of a paper-like material so it did not come off in one piece. An inspection mirror correctly oriented helped me get a clear visual of my work. Otherwise you can't see what you are doing.
The pipe is super cheap - $14 or so. Pipe, hardware, and gasket shipped was about $30. If your turbo is on the bend - inspect the pipe for any corrosion.
You can see how there was a decent sized hole where the hose sits. It was just too far away for the hose and clamp to seal it off.
I got a surprise while working on this - two of the exhaust manifold bolts were out. One was just sitting on top of the manifold and the second missing. They were sheared. No visible leak at this time. I will need to address at time of turbo upgrade.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

After I replaced the transmission (A442F) solenoids the shifting improved but a 2-3 shift flare remained. Like everyone else says - if you give it lots of pedal there is no flare.
I saw a YouTube video where someone replaced the center 4 support gaskets, part 35893-36010, and resolved this issue. I decided to give this a shot.
Dropping the valve body is not very hard. I took some cardboard and drew up all the bolts and their positions and popped them in as I removed them. They are all different lengths so you need to keep track.
Once the valve body was out I added some large washers and bolts to hold the cylinders in place. Only snag was one of the solenoid clips broke as I was removing them. Toyota still sells the complete harness for $22 (2023) - part 82125-36010. Will wait for it to arrive to button everything up and test.
My observation was that it seemed like from the imprint on the valve body that at least one of these gaskets was not fully seating. I took that one out and compared it on the bench against a new one. There is a visual difference and the old one is very very hard. I will update the thread once everything is together and I have results.

Prior to doing this job I did the following:
- replaced filter and corrected the ATF level per fsm.
- replaced non-oem kickdown cable and adjusted it per FSM
- replaced all 4 solenoids. I think the old ones are still good but the o-rings need to be replaced.

Valve body removed

Interface where I think there was a bad seal

Large washer added to hold in cylinders. Other cylinder not shown.

New vs Old

Broken clip on solenoid harness

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Here is a snapshot from the FSM showing the 4 gaskets. I will replace all as well as the o-rings on accumulators.

Orientation of the gasket:

Lengths of each bolt in mm. 10N-m torque.

 

[duece71]

Here is a snapshot from the FSM showing the 4 gaskets. I will replace all as well as the o-rings on accumulators. View attachment 3451480 Orientation of the gasket: View attachment 3451490 Lengths of each bolt in mm. 10N-m torque. View attachment 3451491

Great

Here is a snapshot from the FSM showing the 4 gaskets. I will replace all as well as the o-rings on accumulators.

View attachment 3451480

Orientation of the gasket:

View attachment 3451490

Lengths of each bolt in mm. 10N-m torque.
View attachment 3451491

Here is a snapshot from the FSM showing the 4 gaskets. I will replace all as well as the o-rings on accumulators.

View attachment 3451480

Orientation of the gasket:

View attachment 3451490

Lengths of each bolt in mm. 10N-m torque.
View attachment 3451491

Some really great info in these posts, I have a clunk when shifting but it only happens when the engine and trans is cold. Thank you for posting this up, great reference.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I noticed something different from my US spec LX450 -> the rheostat (dimmer dial) only controls the brightness of the gauge cluster. My LX450 dimmer adjusts brightness of all lights. I assume this is normal considering there are no wiring alterations on this 80. I only looked into this because the dash lights (switches, radio, hvac) are all dim and hard to see. Any solutions or knowledge? @DivByZero @mudgudgeon

 

[DivByZero]

I can confirm the rheostat only affects the cluster on my 80. I don't have knowledge of regional/model variations with this, didn't know to look until now.

Edit: I should add, I've never had issues with the rest of the lights being too dim, they feel good to me and I've never wanted to adjust them, but this is of course a subjective thing, maybe what feels just right for me feels too dim for you.