mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Can't say I've changed that bypass, but think maybe a basin wrench could be useful to twist it back and forth?
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- #22
Thanks for the suggestion and link.
I will put some thought into this. Seems like there is some space for hand tools. Will keep this thread updated with progress once I start.
The heater bypass tube you might get away with a tee and some generic hose.
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- #24
Thats the route I am thinking about but first going try a 1FZ pipe.
I started to clean up the old silicone from oil pan and block. Whatever was used was not OEM and very difficult to remove.
This 1HDT is fitted with a high altitude compensator that has a broken nipple for the vacuum pump hose. Is it worth restoring or simply delete it?
If deleting it - route the vacuum pump hose directly to injection pump?
Not sure on the HAC - I've not seen one in the wild
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I would suggest doing the harmonic balancer why you are at it, easy access now.
Cheers
Cheers
No idea on the HAC either, thought there wouldn't be much point to it with the turbo? Whatever the case, if you end up ditching it, drop me a pm, I'd probably be interested in taking it off your hands and messing with it for my non-turbo 1HZ.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Post pics.
I don't think it will be HACS system on a 1hdt, but might be SICS or SIPS (can't remember the acronym, ages since I read up on it). If it's this, keep it, it's useful if set up correctly.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Post in thread '1HD-FT /1HD-T pump' 1HD-FT /1HD-T pump - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hd-ft-1hd-t-pump.937079/post-10788476
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- #30
Here are some photos of the BACS on my 1HDT @mudgudgeon
Without taking it apart it looks like the vacuum port is plugged up with a red stopper that turns off this function. I found the vacuum hose from vacuum pump loose in the frame rail.
Hoping to restore the function of this valve.
@SNLC - Good point. My 1FZ had a harmonic balancer that was on its way out and I'm glad I replaced it. Better to prevent failure for an imported vehicle.
BACS - Part number on it is 25709-17020 - I wonder if there is DENSO replacement part.
Red arrows pointing to missing vacuum lines. Bottom arrow is from the vacuum pump and the top arrow is the broken plugged nipple.
Closeup of the diaphragm.
Vacuum routing diagram. There is a indicated split (90413-04008) after the vacuum pump that is not present on my 1HDT. Port for a different function?
Without taking it apart it looks like the vacuum port is plugged up with a red stopper that turns off this function. I found the vacuum hose from vacuum pump loose in the frame rail.
Hoping to restore the function of this valve.
@SNLC - Good point. My 1FZ had a harmonic balancer that was on its way out and I'm glad I replaced it. Better to prevent failure for an imported vehicle.
BACS - Part number on it is 25709-17020 - I wonder if there is DENSO replacement part.
Red arrows pointing to missing vacuum lines. Bottom arrow is from the vacuum pump and the top arrow is the broken plugged nipple.
Closeup of the diaphragm.
Vacuum routing diagram. There is a indicated split (90413-04008) after the vacuum pump that is not present on my 1HDT. Port for a different function?
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- #31
While I wait for parts to arrive, I started to look around to see what is out of place and what needs attention. I noticed that the headlight relay was bypassed to a common Bosch relay+ holder external to the fuse box. Likely this was done because an OEM relay was not locally available so they did the next best thing. I have a relay on hand so I am going to revert back to original setup. They cut the wires close to terminal ends so I will need to either replace with new repair wires or reuse the existing.
I was able to remove the top two terminals (12040) but having a hard time with the lower ones. I am not certain that 12140 is the correct repair wire. @OGBeno - can you help? Your '85 JDM 3B engine rebuild thread was some help with identifying.
I was able to remove the top two terminals (12040) but having a hard time with the lower ones. I am not certain that 12140 is the correct repair wire. @OGBeno - can you help? Your '85 JDM 3B engine rebuild thread was some help with identifying.
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- #32
I was able to get the last two terminals out. It simply needed a little bit of force. Here is a cross section of how it is removed though it's not the same connector. Depress the lock on the terminal itself and push it out.
Now I need to identify the part number. Repair manual has a similar one but without the locking tab.
This one matches dimensions but does not have the locking tab present. Still looking for correct part number.
Now I need to identify the part number. Repair manual has a similar one but without the locking tab.
This one matches dimensions but does not have the locking tab present. Still looking for correct part number.
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- #33
Decided to reuse the existing terminals. Cleaned old wiring ends with a deoxidizer and ran new wires where needed. Checked continuity of all bits. Back together as it was from Toyota.
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- #34
Added the hood rod support because the shocks are shot and I feel more comfortable with the rod anyway.
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FMC80
SILVER Star
Yes, thanks for posting this. I need to order mine, I’ve been procrastinating long enough. Thanks for the reminder!
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- #36
Replaced all the water coolant hoses and this drain cock.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Takes a bit , and is a bit of an art to get it to line up correctly . Prob spent a hour to get mine to line up right
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- #38
I must have gotten lucky as it only took a few minutes. I reached in by hand from inside the engine to start the threads and finished off by long extension through the wheel well.
Bearings should be arriving this week so I can finish that job and move on to other items like the harmonic balancer - thanks @SNLC !
Is there a source for an engine wiring harness, part# 82111-60166? Maybe a company out there makes replacements?
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- #39
Bearings came in but I made the mistake of not ordering the connecting rod bearing but instead the crankshaft. Oops. Time to wait again...
Now I have spares.
Now I have spares.
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- Thread starter
- #40
Old timing belt cover had 2 broken ears for the bolts so it's replaced with a new one and added the service sticker.
I also serviced the alternator brushes. Uneven wear - possibly stuck spring or maybe it's intentional.
I also serviced the alternator brushes. Uneven wear - possibly stuck spring or maybe it's intentional.
