1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (2 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

The pressed in coolant pipe arrived. 16278-17010. While I waited for it, I cleaned up the existing pipe to put a closer eye on it and prep for removal. It's not as bad as I initially thought. Some missing material on the top that I was able to dull down but it's solid.
I tested my pilot bearing puller with the new part and it will work as I hoped. My plan was to cut the existing pipe close to the block and use the pilot bearing puller to extract it. There is a bulky shoulder as you can see in the second photo below for the puller to grab onto. The puller will put tension on the part while I shock it with a hammer and long tool.
With the replacement part on hand and tool tested to fit - I will first try to run the motor with existing pipe before going down this repair path. It was not leaking to begin with and my available free time has shrunk.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Resolved this post in #44. This is to be for record only to help someone else who makes same mistake.

Started to work on con rod bearings and am noticing a discrepancy between what I expected to be there versus what is there. The obvious is that the bearings have been replaced at some point. The question is if they were done correctly.

The crankshaft marking is 222 322 (cylinder 1,2,3,4,5,6)
The connecting rod markings are:

1 2 3 4 5 6 Cylinder #
2 2 2 2 2 2
3 3 3 3 3 3 <- FSM marking to add to crankshaft marking read post #44 for correction to this strikethrough
/ / / / / /
1 2 1 2 2 1 <- FSM marking to add to crankshaft marking
B B B B B B

The FSM notes that the second row of con rod markings should be added to the crank shaft marking to give bearing number.
By this logic I expect the following bearings in order from cyl 1 to 6: 5,5,5,6,5,5
The 5 bearings I removed read: 3,x,3,5,x,3 (x bearings have not yet been removed)

Should I install what I expect to be there or what has already been installed? Maybe need to Plastigage it.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

 

[logicbyondreaso]

As I look at the FSM one more time - I realize my mistake and that the bearings installed are correct.
My mistake - I flipped the photo I took of the bearing to read the numbers. In reality I need to read them upside down, just as they are installed in the motor.
I was reading the second number on the cap instead of the second number on con rod itself. Phew.
With this mistake cleared up, the removed bearings are correct and I expect the not-yet removed bearings will be #4's for Cyl #2, and #5.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Went back to confirm my previous statement and the remaining 2 bearings are in fact #4.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The injection lines had missing brackets that keep them all together, spaced apart, and from vibrating. I've noticed these missing on other trucks likely not put back after service as they are time consuming. I purchased all the hardware needed and when I went to install, the rubber sleeve around each line was either missing, failing, or partially there. I can't seem to find any part numbers for them. Any recommendations? @OGBeno @TurboDennis @SNLC ?

I prefer not to buy a new pipe just to get these. Hoping for a Toyota solution before exploring other options.

 

[OGBeno]

Buy the pipe get the insulators.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Buy the pipe get the insulators.

Like I said - I prefer not to buy the pipe to get them and looking for a solution. I know you have one somewhere.... please share.

 

[duece71]

Like I said - I prefer not to buy the pipe to get them and looking for a solution. I know you have one somewhere.... please share.

Rubber tubing cut to length? Not sure it the tubing would have to be high temp or not.

 

[TurboDennis]

The injection lines had missing brackets that keep them all together, spaced apart, and from vibrating. I've noticed these missing on other trucks likely not put back after service as they are time consuming. I purchased all the hardware needed and when I went to install, the rubber sleeve around each line was either missing, failing, or partially there. I can't seem to find any part numbers for them. Any recommendations? @OGBeno @TurboDennis @SNLC ?

I prefer not to buy a new pipe just to get these. Hoping for a Toyota solution before exploring other options.

View attachment 3326936

View attachment 3326937

Im with Onur on this. Buy new while they are still available, because they're not going to be for much longer... That's what i did for my own truck. They're pricey, but apparently replacing these pipes is part of official maintenance schedule. According to Mr. T, they're only good for 150k km. Not sure exactly why, but that's the excuse i used to justify to myself buying new ones.

But if you are completely against the idea, you can do what deuce71 suggested. I've done exactly that on customer's trucks, and it works.

 

[mudgudgeon]

According to Mr. T, they're only good for 150k

I think this was only for the 1hdfte version. No service interval on the other HD engines

 

[mudgudgeon]

Like I said - I prefer not to buy the pipe to get them and looking for a solution. I know you have one somewhere.... please share.

Some electrical heat shrink wrap?

Any tube you use will have to fit over the compression nuts ( or between the nut and the injector pipe) That counts out almost anything but heat shrink IMO, and probably heat shrink is out too

 

[mudgudgeon]

Another option could be self amalgamating tape/wrap. Mark where it's needed, remove injector lines, wrap before reinstalling

 

[duece71]

I think this was only for the 1hdfte version. No service interval on the other HD engines

Would the FSM for the 1 HDT have this info?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Would the FSM for the 1 HDT have this info?

I don't think so as there is no service interval for injector lines for the 1hd-t.
I'm happy to be wrong. The FSM is in the "resources" section of the forum menu.

1hdfte was the first of this series engine to have a service interval on injector lines.
I believe it's because of the increase in line pressure over previous versions

 

[duece71]

I don't think so as there is no service interval for injector lines for the 1hd-t.
I'm happy to be wrong. The FSM is in the "resources" section of the forum menu.

1hdfte was the first of this series engine to have a service interval on injector lines.
I believe it's because of the increase in line pressure over previous versions

Ok, thank you. Just curious if I should buy a full set of lines for…..just in case.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Going back to the high altitude compensator (HAC) that was installed on this vehicle - It had a broken vacuum port and I made an effort to source a replacement. That turned up empty. Thank you @Japan4X4 for trying all options.
The vacuum port is very small at just around 2mm ID. I did not want to use any sort of bonding chemical to attach a nipple with fear of clogging the port. There is a rubber diaphragm that sits around the broken port and creates a seal. Any adhesive may not allow it to seat properly.
My solution was to drill out the 2mm port to a 3mm size and tap it for a small barb that is similar dimension for the oem vacuum hose. The HAC is aluminum so I picked up an aluminum barb from McMaster and below are the results.

I set the HAC into a vice and connected a vacuum hose to the other port. While drilling I provided positive pressure to blow chips out as I drilled.

Finished threads.

Part assembled.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I replaced every vacuum hose with new and put everything back together. I filled the motor up with fresh oil and coolant. I let it sit for a night to confirm no slow drips. None found.
It cranked over and started quickly. Pressure came up, and it idled within range. Sounds great.

I noticed the idle up actuator for A/C was not in contact with the injection pump arm. Does anyone have experience with this? Maybe the actuator arm gets "sucked in" once the AC is ON and calls for higher idle? I did not check this during the quick test run of motor. FSM calibration procedure does call out for AC to be ON and additional settings on HVAC as depicted below. Is it normal for the arm to be as it is in my photo?

You can see in this phot the actuator arm is not in contact with the rotating assembly of IP. When I push in the actuator arm it does touch but does not go beyond that nor move the rotating IP link.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

To answer my own question from previous post: once the AC is on the actuator is pulled in enough to bump idle. I took a video of the action and will try to post it later once uploaded.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Verifying all dash lights work. Found a “fix” that must have been done with no parts on hand. Helps having a parts cluster.

Spare gear selector board vs the field modified one with soldered bulbs. They work!