1997 Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter truthdetector
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truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #122
Ha, thanks.
I was able to get a new front OEM carpet that is stored away until after the paint job. Haven't been able to find the rear wheel-well carpets or the rear main carpet, so I'll just have to clean those up.
I don't mind keeping the original number of miles on the odometer. Looking forward to seeing the number start with a 3 years from now.
Kinda the same way on miles….. your project is an unrealized dream of mine, and my hats off to you.
Ooof, that frame is in bad shape. Good thing you found it and are replacing it.
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #125
Interesting that the new frames come pre-corroded at the top where the seam is welded. Must be NOS.
Maybe I should hit them with self-etching primer to slow down the corrosion?
Maybe I should hit them with self-etching primer to slow down the corrosion?
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #126
Waiting on parts to finish the rear windows. Today, I taped them up so I could take her out for a drink.
Also, whenever I would run the engine since rebuild, I would open the gas cap and it would release a lot of pressure, so I installed a new 105-series charcoal canister and that problem is now solved.
Also, whenever I would run the engine since rebuild, I would open the gas cap and it would release a lot of pressure, so I installed a new 105-series charcoal canister and that problem is now solved.
Saddletramp
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truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #128
Installed the rear quarter windows and got other odds and ends done and have been driving it around on short trips to put the initial miles on it.
Got the A/C charged and it is holding pressure. The compressor kicked right in at the shop, but didn’t turn on the next day. There is pressure in the system still and there is voltage at the wire, so I think I need to adjust the shims in the clutch assembly.
Got an alignment done too:
Got the A/C charged and it is holding pressure. The compressor kicked right in at the shop, but didn’t turn on the next day. There is pressure in the system still and there is voltage at the wire, so I think I need to adjust the shims in the clutch assembly.
Got an alignment done too:
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #129
Installed a new head unit, reverse cam, and dash cam. All Kenwood.
Used the same pathway that the license plate bulb wires take.
A zip tie to fish the wire through from underneath:
Made a second hole next to where the wire comes in from the license plate bulbs and used the grommet that came with the reverse cam:
End result is a disconnection point inside the hatch just like for the bulbs to make it easy to remove the bulb assembly or the entire hatch.
Finished product:
Used the same pathway that the license plate bulb wires take.
A zip tie to fish the wire through from underneath:
Made a second hole next to where the wire comes in from the license plate bulbs and used the grommet that came with the reverse cam:
End result is a disconnection point inside the hatch just like for the bulbs to make it easy to remove the bulb assembly or the entire hatch.
Finished product:
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #130
Previously tried to install a new antenna mast into the existing power antenna body, but couldn't get it to retract all the way. Not only that, but I couldn't get the new nut on the top to secure the unit to the fender. Turns out that some of the threads came off the top when the nut was removed a couple of years ago when I started this project.
So I said screw it and bought the manual antenna mast (86300-60030) since I hardly use the radio anyway.
Was able to pull the old antenna wire out into the fender with a pull-string tied to it. Then used the string to pull the new wire in along the same pathway.
Took some contorting, a couple of scrapes and cuts, and some patience, but it is now hooked up and I now have an antenna that is not flopping around along with some great reception for the radio I never use.
Since the power antenna assembly is shot, someday I'll tear it apart and see what junk is inside of where the plastic whip is supposed to go.
If someone wants a new power antenna mast with the toothed plastic whip for a 1997, hit me up.
So I said screw it and bought the manual antenna mast (86300-60030) since I hardly use the radio anyway.
Was able to pull the old antenna wire out into the fender with a pull-string tied to it. Then used the string to pull the new wire in along the same pathway.
Took some contorting, a couple of scrapes and cuts, and some patience, but it is now hooked up and I now have an antenna that is not flopping around along with some great reception for the radio I never use.
Since the power antenna assembly is shot, someday I'll tear it apart and see what junk is inside of where the plastic whip is supposed to go.
If someone wants a new power antenna mast with the toothed plastic whip for a 1997, hit me up.
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #131
First oil analysis...
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #132
Second oil analysis came in.
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #133
Long time since I posted, but I wasn't doing much with the rig other than driving it. The engine rebuild now has > 4,600 miles on it with no apparent issues.
Here is the most recent Blackstone report.
Here is the most recent Blackstone report.
truthdetector
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- Thread starter
- #134
