Looks great, I'm pretty sure there is an OEM double-hole grommet for that pass-thru.
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88895-60010 is what mine has.Looks great, I'm pretty sure there is an OEM double-hole grommet for that pass-thru.
Looks great, I'm pretty sure there is an OEM double-hole grommet for that pass-thru.
88895-60010 is what mine has.
That hardline install is so clean... I'm about to bring the Troopy to you.I know y’all are tired of A/C updates, so I hope this is the last post regarding hardlines.
The #8 line from the compressor to the condenser wasn’t quite right. It didn’t have any place to clamp to the chassis (aside from at the condenser and at the soft hose). I was afraid the long hardline would vibrate like crazy with the soft hose hanging off the end of it, and eventually crack. After I went to re-install my air intake, I also realized it interfered with the OEM air cleaner box. I could “make it work” but I decided to just re-do the #8 hardline.
I bought these Made4You double line clamps from Summit. They’re nice because they come in dual sizes - 5/16” for the #6 hardline and 3/8” for the #8 hardline.
I re-bent the 3/8” stainless steel hardline and brazed new fittings. I also added a piece of rubber hose to the 5/16” hard-line to prevent it from rubbing at the pass-through.
Then I used the line clamps to anchor the 3/8” line to the 5/16” line in the bay. Since the 5/16” line is going from a hard-mount to hard-mount (condenser to receiver/dryer), this should work well since no soft hose is vibrating/work-hardening it.
Final result clears the air cleaner and (hopefully) won’t crack.
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I just checked it out! It sounds like I'm not the only one with this problem. In your thread, several people mentioned that the mounting holes didn't line up. Or that the hardlines exiting the plastic evap housing did not line up with where the instructions indicated to punch the hardline holes in the firewall.Did you see my under dash install of Joerie’s kit? Some mount holes didn’t line up either.
I didn’t have any instructions since I didn’t buy the whole kit.I just checked it out! It sounds like I'm not the only one with this problem. In your thread, several people mentioned that the mounting holes didn't line up. Or that the hardlines exiting the plastic evap housing did not line up with where the instructions indicated to punch the hardline holes in the firewall.
Thank you, I appreciate the intel. I thought I was going crazy on the evap install not lining up.
OP installed an aftermarket evaporator setup."the plastic evap housing did not line up with where the instructions indicated to punch the hardline holes in the firewall"
The 7 series is the Toyota model that have most various engines, trany and versions.
But with several years working on mines I have unterstood two things: first in a logic of production for a large manufacturer there is a lot of similar parts on different model, and second one they're really well engineered but japaneses are human and sometimes make mistakes.
The evaporator may have some different hoses to evacuate the water but the body is the same between my 78 and the 73 kit I'm selling in cassified, so it's possible do make a different " crossing" on the firewall if you have the rubber isolator who protec the hose.
My replacement evaporator came in from PartSouq yesterday. After initial mock-up, it fits perfectly under the dash and aligns exactly to the existing duct-work.
Here it is compared to Joe's aftermarket unit.
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There are two sensors/switches on the OEM evaporator. One is a temp sensor that (I presume) would go to the amplifier in the OEM A/C configuration (and which I am abandoning for a capillary rotary thermostat).
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The other appears to be the A/C pressure switch. It is mounted in-line on one of the pressure lines.
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On my aftermarket setup, I mounted my pressure switch on the receiver/dryer unit. This is commonly where I have seen the pressure switch mounted in other applications.
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Can anyone confirm that Toyota mounts the pressure switch in the evaporator box? That seems like a pain to access.
Unfortunately, the hardlines on the back of the OEM evaporator box are slightly shorter than the hardlines out of Joe's evap box.
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So I need to order a couple more fittings and re-do one of the soft lines. Luckily I have some spare hose. Plus, I'm waiting on a new rotary thermostat to prevent the evaporator from freezing over. I hope to have everything installed next week after parts arrive.
Thanks, Joel! If I had factory A/C, I would abandon or plug that pressure sensor port and add an in-line sensor in a more convenient location. Crazy that it's in the evap box.Confirmed on the temp probe integrating into the factory AC system...
Confirmed on Toyota's location of the pressure switch... indeed a PIA to replace. When I tore mine down to clean it all up and flush it all out I put in a new pressure switch. I DO NOT want to have to go that far in again.
I purchased the entire evaporator assembly through PartSouq. Toyota PN is: 88510-60510. They're not cheap.What’s the part number for the replacement evaporator? Didn’t realize they were still available
Check PartSouq. You can probably buy it separate.Is it possible to buy just the (denso i assume) evaporator itself without the full cooler box assembly?
I have factory AC in my rhd troopy. I m replacing most of the ac components but i stopped short of buying this assembly due to the price tag.
I bought a pressure switch and an expansion valve separately. I'm not sure if that is already included in the oem assembly.
In my ideal world i would just buy a cheap denso evporator and install it to the cooling box assembly. I'd blow it out and reuse but it has been open to road dust for years and may be filthy.