1996 FZJ80 Coolant & Heater Hose Part Numbers & Pictures (1 Viewer)

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First search result. Gotta love this place. Now I get to replace the water bypass, which is a good time to install the new PHH I’ve had since last year. Hoping to keep the swearing to a minimum. Thank you for this thread!

Started dripping a little coolant today - appears my hose is a bit swollen at the connection. PO replaced the main/easy hoses but still have a few little ones to do that aren’t as easy to access.

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First search result. Gotta love this place. Now I get to replace the water bypass, which is a good time to install the new PHH I’ve had since last year. Hoping to keep the swearing to a minimum. Thank you for this thread!

Started dripping a little coolant today - appears my hose is a bit swollen at the connection. PO replaced the main/easy hoses but still have a few little ones to do that aren’t as easy to access.

View attachment 2685865
That bypass line is not too bad, access is OK though the drivers wheel well. I had the upper intake manifold off when I changed it though. PHH is slightly more difficult, but not too hard, plenty of guides here on that one. Get yourself a good hose pick and set of hose puller pliers and the job will be a lot more enjoyable.
 
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Yeah, was just making a PHH joke as swearing over it is referenced often, hah. Thanks though - I’ve searched the ways to make it easier & not worried about it. In fact, glad I’m finally going to get around to it!
 
I actually found the PHH slightly easier than the bypass, but similar enough. I’d say the PHH really wasn’t bad, granted it’s all about finagling things in there. Fully removed the hard line & installed new hose on it before reinstalling - found that easier than putting hose on block first. Was also able to replace a couple lingering heater valve hoses while I had it drained. Success.
 
Morning Mud

It's Head gasket time, and everything else I can get my hands on.

My focus is reliability, although the pipes look good with a light patina inside I figured why not. I super dig my rear heater and haven't deleted it yet.

I have the pesky metal pipe part number as 87209-60381 but I can't seem to find the other steel pipe part number.

Any suggestions?

PXL_20220404_023456215~2.jpg
 
Morning Mud

It's Head gasket time, and everything else I can get my hands on.

My focus is reliability, although the pipes look good with a light patina inside I figured why not. I super dig my rear heater and haven't deleted it yet.

I have the pesky metal pipe part number as 87209-60381 but I can't seem to find the other steel pipe part number.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 2979256


@OGBeno he prolly knows the p/n ;)
 
@OGBeno he prolly knows the p/n ;)
Thanks
Found them

Pesky with hose 87209-60381
Metal bypass pipe 87208-60270
Metal "U" @ valve 87248-60480
Brass T complete 87209-60290

I just went out to the shop both pipes seem to be super solid with no decay. I'm also on the fence about running some Gates Green stripe as a pesky bypass or removing my rear heater really like the rear heater on a cold day.
 
@BillyGoatMTB i ran gates green stripe and guess what? The oem clamps do not fit at all. I had to use the constant torque style Joey sells . Someone said there is an oem clamp but no one ever post a part number and I’m not dropping $10 a clamp to play guess work
 
@BillyGoatMTB i ran gates green stripe and guess what? The oem clamps do not fit at all. I had to use the constant torque style Joey sells . Someone said there is an oem clamp but no one ever post a part number and I’m not dropping $10 a clamp to play guess work
I have the breeze clamps on everything, I like em.
I'll look, I think those are the 3/4" breeze clamps.

I think of them like lifetime clamps.

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This is GREAT, thank you!

I'm going through the cooling system now as part of my baseline...having these hose numbers will save me a lot of frustration!
 
Do you know how many breeze clamps are needed to do the entire system? And their Part Numbers?
I would have to look, I have moved away from breeze clamps on plastic fittings and switched to factory constant tention clamps.

When I built my new motor a few months ago I noticed my radiator inlet and outlet were deformed.

I had a new radiator fresh from Mr T and ordered Factory clamps.
 
need some help identifying these two hoses... i am looking down below the manifold on the drivers side of a 1996 LX 450. Have a leak on the top hose and just wanted to see what this is... believe trans cool hose and 5/8" but not 100% sure.

Sorry for the bad picture... took it late at night after wrestling with a brake booster install.

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"need some help identifying these two hoses"

There are two formed transmission cooler hoses on the left side of the 1FZFE with the ATM transmission, easy to see if you look in via the left front wheel well forward of the starter. IME the hoses get squished down by the factory clamps so they're no longer putting enough pressure on the hose/pipe for a good seal. One quick fix is to reposition the factory clamp to a fresh (unsquished) area of the hose to see if the leak stops. ie: just slide the hose further on the pipe a tad and move the clamp. The ID of the factory formed hoses (no longer available) is 10mm which is not easily found but 3/8" (9.5mm) transmission cooler hose is close enough and will fit. The OD of the aftermarket will likely not be the same as the OEM hose so you may need to use a different size clamp (there are different size OEM clamps of the same type if you want to stick with OEM clamps). Another choice are Breeze constant torque clamps which are considered an upgrade over generic worm screw cheapo clamps.
 
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"need some help identifying these two hoses"

There are two formed transmission cooler hoses on the left side of the 1FZFE with the ATM transmission, easy to see if you look in via the left front wheel well forward of the starter. IME the hoses get squished down by the factory clamps so they're no longer putting enough pressure on the hose/pipe for a good seal. One quick fix is to reposition the factory clamp to a fresh (unsquished) area of the hose to see if the leak stops. ie: just slide the hose further on the pipe a tad and move the clamp. The ID of the factory formed hoses (no longer available) is 10mm which is not easily found but 3/8" (9.5mm) transmission cooler hose is close enough and will fit. The OD of the aftermarket will likely not be the same as the OEM hose so you may need to use a different size clamp (there are different size OEM clamps of the same type if you want to stick with OEM clamps). Another choice are Breeze constant torque clamps which are considered an upgrade over generic worm screw cheapo clamps.
Much appreciated Kernal, ha you actually helped me on my brake booster. I pulled these both to check for leaks and they are good to go... for the life of me I couldn't find where the leak was coming from and realized it is coolant so not sure if I nicked a line during the brake boost pull. It gushed on me after a long drive and then starting it up yesterday nothing so need to take another drive.
 
Check your PHH (Pesky Heater Hose) and the smaller diameter Throttle body bypass (preheat) hose located in front of the PHH. They're both on that side of the block up under the intake. Look in, up, and rearward via the left front wheel well.
 
This is subject to change, but here's what I've come up with so far(updated 7/6/2018):






Finished! (except for the rear seat heater hoses...another day)
Very helpful! If I'm reading this right, it calls for TWO 16264-66021 hoses, with one of those by the firewall?
 

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