1994 4.7 Engine swap (2 Viewers)

[71fj40cruiser]

What transmission did you go with, the 100 series A343 or 80 A442 in your v8 swap?

I went with the A343 as it came with the engine, and the 80 transfer. It is going to require driveshafts to be fitted as the overall length is somewhat shorter. I also had to fab a transmission mount. I used the crossmember from the 80, shortened it and welded mounts to connect the crossmember to which placed it the same height, just moved forward, as the original.

I am now in the process of figuring out the power steering set-up.

 

[obe12]

I went with the A343, it came with the engine, and the 80 transfer. It is going to require driveshafts to be fitted as the overall length is somewhat shorter. I also had to fab a transmission mount. I used the crossmember from the 80, shortened it and welded mounts to connect the crossmember to which placed it the same height, just moved forward, as the original.

I am now in the process of figuring out the power steering set-up.

Slee did one of these, it sounded like rear mount could stay, but you know how that is.

Did the front MMounts line up, of have to move them too?

My 80 has the VC in it. The rear case appears longer than my 100 case. I haven’t measured them to know.
This engine turbo / freshen engine is pretty pricy. The 105 guys in AuS love the 1FZ in turbo. The few I contacted state side in the 80 series really like having turbo the 1Fz too. But the cost is a lot.

The narrow frame up front, in the 80 do you have a plan for the exhaust system just yet? Inside the frame or up and over the frame like the inline did?
I am really curious how you are working the 4.7. It’s a great engine, have two now in my cars, cruiser at 379300 this morning, and 4runner 278000. 4runner a 5 speed non VVTI and hauls ass 2wd.

I am doing the supercharger for my 100 to pull a heavy trailer 7500 lbs to Colorado and back 1-2 times a year. The part time 4x4 and 10% underdrive make it a blast to drive now. Runs to the 105 speedo limit now if you want it. Tips in at 75 and actually make a pass without down shifting. Pulls small grades without converter unlocking or downshifting.l as it is now. If I didn’t have this heavy trailer I would SC it. If I lived in the mountains I might feel differently.

The 80 now I drive doesn’t feel as heavy which is a plus for this engine. The gearing 2500 is 70 on mine now OD .. that’s about what my 100 is now. 2900 at 78-80 accounting for larger tires 33 inch.

You have my attention let’s say, and I could be swayed to go down a V8 swap. A 350-500 hp inline 6 isn’t a bad option either tho…

I you can say I am on the fence some.

VVTI 4.7 higher HP engine would be nice 5 speed. The drive my wire and working the trans shifting out just complexes the install more. So the non VVTI is the better option staying yoya. If I wanted a Chev I buy a Chev … so there is that.

Keep the good work up

Tex

 

[obe12]

My early up and fatigue responses lack thought out statements. Sorry.. my cruiser rolled 389200 ish this morning… 379300 when I bought it. Nearly 10k miles driving since April last year. Seeing the inside of this engine, freaking amazing just how the cylinders looked when I bored scoped it, intake ports when I pulled it out to fix an oil leak. Pulled the valve covers and looked great, oil pans can off looked great. Pull one main, one rod bearing and looked good. New valve seals, adjusted the valves 3 only in 379k miles to tight.. by 1/2 a tho .. nothing really. Original starter, original ac compressor… at that mileage. Original trans still… I did but frok
The second owner and he drive it since 50k miles old. Has all the service records too.

But a testament of the 4.7 quality … of you take care of them. The oil leak was rear main oil seal housing o ring and oil pump from o ring created the need to remove the oil pans. So pulled the engine. Doesn’t leak now…

Hope you find this kind of service with your 4.7 you got.

Tex

 

[Broski]

My early up and fatigue responses lack thought out statements. Sorry.. my cruiser rolled 389200 ish this morning… 379300 when I bought it. Nearly 10k miles driving since April last year. Seeing the inside of this engine, freaking amazing just how the cylinders looked when I bored scoped it, intake ports when I pulled it out to fix an oil leak. Pulled the valve covers and looked great, oil pans can off looked great. Pull one main, one rod bearing and looked good. New valve seals, adjusted the valves 3 only in 379k miles to tight.. by 1/2 a tho .. nothing really. Original starter, original ac compressor… at that mileage. Original trans still… I did but frok
The second owner and he drive it since 50k miles old. Has all the service records too.

But a testament of the 4.7 quality … of you take care of them. The oil leak was rear main oil seal housing o ring and oil pump from o ring created the need to remove the oil pans. So pulled the engine. Doesn’t leak now…

Hope you find this kind of service with your 4.7 you got.

Tex

You completely hijacked This Thread !

 

[tmxmotorsports]

You completely hijacked This Thread !

More swap less talk

 

[obe12]

You completely hijacked This Thread !

My apologies … 4.7 is a great engine in a great 80 work of the past…. Want to see it completed

 

[71fj40cruiser]

This is the direction I went with the power steering. Banjo fitting at the pump and the inverted flare at the gear box. Both are -6 x 16.5 mm.

For the fuel, I used a filter from a 100 series. It will screw right on the inverted flare supply line from the tank. I had to remove the line from the fitting at the fuel rail and used 5/16" fuel injection line which worked great with the outlet from the filter. The vent line from the tank (the third line) I did run through the charcoal filter. The evaporative emissions has been programmed out, which eliminated any need for a tank purge valve.

 

[71fj40cruiser]

Spectre 9961 air intake

 

[71fj40cruiser]

Well, this week was spent with a lot of things that make it look like I didn't get a lot done. Got driveshafts made, longer rear, shorter front. Install radiator, heater hoses, power steering lines w/cooler. Did not use the factory p/s cooler. I didn't like the way it ran right behind the oil filter. I wanted to be able to use the bigger filter and the factory cooler would have prevented that. Ran lines to transmission cooler and hooked up transmission and transfer case linkage. I was able to use the factory 100 transfer case linkage, but had to lengthen the transmission linkage by about 4". I was able to run the engine long enough to get the engine warm and make sure I didn't have any leaks. Onward and forward!

 

[71fj40cruiser]

If you listen closely you can here it running. Starting and running off factory ignition. Woohoo!

 

[PrydeFall]

How is this project going? I am in the very...very early stages of a 2UZ swap.

 

[71fj40cruiser]

How is this project going? I am in the very...very early stages of a 2UZ swap.

It is proceeding nicely. It has slowed a bit, due to other projects. I am now in the process of connecting all the gauge/dash lights to the 4.7 harness. I have completed the transfer case. The CDL now works off the switch and the 4L lever. Next is to get all the gauge lights working, i.e. transmission lights PRND21, oil pressure, temp gauge, etc...

 

[71fj40cruiser]

I know I haven't posted for a bit...just finished getting exhaust put on, pictures did not come out to good. I can get better ones if anyone is interested, but...I have transmission lights working on the dash as well as water temp and oil light. I am trying to get the tach and speedo to work now. Oh, and my daughter got married over memorial day weekend, so there's that!

 

[smokeysevin]

I know I haven't posted for a bit...just finished getting exhaust put on, pictures did not come out to good. I can get better ones if anyone is interested, but...I have transmission lights working on the dash as well as water temp and oil light. I am trying to get the tach and speedo to work now. Oh, and my daughter got married over memorial day weekend, so there's that!

View attachment 3658771

Are you planning on running cats?

What size did you use for the exhaust?

I am still in the process but my setup is 2.25" from the headers into a dual 2.25 in - single 3 out spintech muffler.

Sean

 

[71fj40cruiser]

Are you planning on running cats?

What size did you use for the exhaust?

I am still in the process but my setup is 2.25" from the headers into a dual 2.25 in - single 3 out spintech muffler.

Sean

2.25 from the manifold, 2.25 in and 2.5 out on a 2 in 1 out magnaflow and cats optional

 

[71fj40cruiser]

Well, I think I am finally on the final stages of having this completed.

I have all the gauges functioning except the Tach. I have not been able to get it to function. I have driven it around 100 miles over the last few weeks. Still a few little quirks to work out, but all in all I am happy with the outcome. Transmission needs a little attention. The parking pawl seems to be broke and still need to get overdrive working. The wiring is all there for it, I just haven't finalized that yet. I thought the transmission might have to come out, therefore, I wasn't to concerned about the overdrive. It has been a learning experience. I am a lot more familiar with the wiring on both the 80 and the 100 series.

Hopefully someone found this helpful. If anyone has questions, just ask. I might or I might not have the answer you are looking for.

 

[obe12]

Well, I think I am finally on the final stages of having this completed.

I have all the gauges functioning except the Tach. I have not been able to get it to function. I have driven it around 100 miles over the last few weeks. Still a few little quirks to work out, but all in all I am happy with the outcome. Transmission needs a little attention. The parking pawl seems to be broke and still need to get overdrive working. The wiring is all there for it, I just haven't finalized that yet. I thought the transmission might have to come out, therefore, I wasn't to concerned about the overdrive. It has been a learning experience. I am a lot more familiar with the wiring on both the 80 and the 100 series.

Hopefully someone found this helpful. If anyone has questions, just ask. I might or I might not have the answer you are looking for.

Tach is because Traditional Ignition coil being fired by an igniter and tach signal is basicly neg side of the oil. As the coils is grounded and released to create spark, the unloading of the primary circuit creates a pulse to 50-70 volts to trigger the tach.

The 2UZ uses coil over plug system and ECU possible provides a tach signal ? I would have to look at my 100
To see. Also you could run into one more small issues it tach calibration, 6 vrs 8 cylinders.

But the on the left side where the old ignition coil was, there is maybe a grey plug mounted on your ABS if equipped that’s a filter, and the old coil lead is pos and neg of coil to igniter. That igniter has two wires to old ECU, one power one neg side of the coil and one to the tach.

There is a partial solution called a DakotaDigital speed / tach correction device but it will not create a large enough signal to trigger the 80 tach, but it can correct calibrate the 8 to 6 if needed.

Now the trigger threshold, I removed my tach from the instrument cluster, I have a tach tester hi - low out but the P term on the back is the tach in, trace it, runs through a diode to a resistor , this resistor is the issue. Depending on what output tach signal you can get , 5 volt or 12-14 volt square wave or pulse this resistor has to be changed. Now I tested jump across the resistor my tach worked 5- or 12 volt signal in
But I lowered my resistor to 5.6k Ohms with the filter out under the hood plugged In the tach drops out 3500 rpm , unplug this filter the tach works perfectly.

Cheap Amazon scope voltage meter can tell you a basic tach signal from your v8. That signal tied to your tach input via how you wire it, plus resistor short across or remove it and replace lower value will get your tach working.

Now it is calibrated for the v8 another issue all together.
Without a tach tester to manually drive the tach and change another resistor to calibrate or possible twist a pot

I would defer to a tach correction device one is DakotaDigital is one of them.

So recap, tach signal is not crossing the threshold to trigger your tach.

Left with a device to boost the signal which I didn’t find to work, or mod your tach itself. Looks harder than it is.

Then 6-8 calibration could be an issue. Don’t mean it is

 

[obe12]

Oh why I had to do my tach, I swapped to coil over plug ignition system with a Haltech 2500 ECU.

Lost my tach.

 

[obe12]

Well, I think I am finally on the final stages of having this completed.

I have all the gauges functioning except the Tach. I have not been able to get it to function. I have driven it around 100 miles over the last few weeks. Still a few little quirks to work out, but all in all I am happy with the outcome. Transmission needs a little attention. The parking pawl seems to be broke and still need to get overdrive working. The wiring is all there for it, I just haven't finalized that yet. I thought the transmission might have to come out, therefore, I wasn't to concerned about the overdrive. It has been a learning experience. I am a lot more familiar with the wiring on both the 80 and the 100 series.

Hopefully someone found this helpful. If anyone has questions, just ask. I might or I might not have the answer you are looking for.

To affirm I looked At 100 series 2UZ engine wiring diagram and it on the 99 has a tach out signal to cluster.

When running this is the circuit you want to see what the signal is , 5 volt , battery volts or other.

Plan the input to your tach in your cluster, either convert it or modify the tach to accept it.

Take care

Let me know if I can help

Tex