Well, I think I am finally on the final stages of having this completed.
I have all the gauges functioning except the Tach. I have not been able to get it to function. I have driven it around 100 miles over the last few weeks. Still a few little quirks to work out, but all in all I am happy with the outcome. Transmission needs a little attention. The parking pawl seems to be broke and still need to get overdrive working. The wiring is all there for it, I just haven't finalized that yet. I thought the transmission might have to come out, therefore, I wasn't to concerned about the overdrive. It has been a learning experience. I am a lot more familiar with the wiring on both the 80 and the 100 series.
Hopefully someone found this helpful. If anyone has questions, just ask. I might or I might not have the answer you are looking for.
Tach is because Traditional Ignition coil being fired by an igniter and tach signal is basicly neg side of the oil. As the coils is grounded and released to create spark, the unloading of the primary circuit creates a pulse to 50-70 volts to trigger the tach.
The 2UZ uses coil over plug system and ECU possible provides a tach signal ? I would have to look at my 100
To see. Also you could run into one more small issues it tach calibration, 6 vrs 8 cylinders.
But the on the left side where the old ignition coil was, there is maybe a grey plug mounted on your ABS if equipped that’s a filter, and the old coil lead is pos and neg of coil to igniter. That igniter has two wires to old ECU, one power one neg side of the coil and one to the tach.
There is a partial solution called a DakotaDigital speed / tach correction device but it will not create a large enough signal to trigger the 80 tach, but it can correct calibrate the 8 to 6 if needed.
Now the trigger threshold, I removed my tach from the instrument cluster, I have a tach tester hi - low out but the P term on the back is the tach in, trace it, runs through a diode to a resistor , this resistor is the issue. Depending on what output tach signal you can get , 5 volt or 12-14 volt square wave or pulse this resistor has to be changed. Now I tested jump across the resistor my tach worked 5- or 12 volt signal in
But I lowered my resistor to 5.6k Ohms with the filter out under the hood plugged In the tach drops out 3500 rpm , unplug this filter the tach works perfectly.
Cheap Amazon scope voltage meter can tell you a basic tach signal from your v8. That signal tied to your tach input via how you wire it, plus resistor short across or remove it and replace lower value will get your tach working.
Now it is calibrated for the v8 another issue all together.
Without a tach tester to manually drive the tach and change another resistor to calibrate or possible twist a pot
I would defer to a tach correction device one is DakotaDigital is one of them.
So recap, tach signal is not crossing the threshold to trigger your tach.
Left with a device to boost the signal which I didn’t find to work, or mod your tach itself. Looks harder than it is.
Then 6-8 calibration could be an issue. Don’t mean it is