- Thread starter
- #421
Ryan...what you and John sent was more than i could ask for....i seriously cant thank you guys enough
Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE
- Thread starter MoeGasim
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #422
first thing i did was to decide where the actual relay box (RB2) was going to sit...as mine was just held on with wire and duct tape..and the one i previously modified was from a 1996 or above model (not sure), not the same holes or position. mine was 'free floating' on a makeshift metal frame beside the diesel hand pump.
then took as detailed measurements that i could....i mean taking into consideration curves, turns...the lot...this has slightly changed since the last installation i did due to some components added/fixed.....
Then prepared the wire (which i found at an audio outlet, and as advised by you guys, more threads).... measuring and cutting as needed.
then took as detailed measurements that i could....i mean taking into consideration curves, turns...the lot...this has slightly changed since the last installation i did due to some components added/fixed.....
Then prepared the wire (which i found at an audio outlet, and as advised by you guys, more threads).... measuring and cutting as needed.
- Thread starter
- #423
cleaning up the old (dreadful) 'quick' fixes i did....before getting flux and soldering the right way.
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- #424
update.....been cleaning the wires....selecting which ones to use for what....
soldering...
shrink wrapping
relay block spaghetti
complete front end wiring before wrapping in braided hose
soldering...
shrink wrapping
relay block spaghetti
complete front end wiring before wrapping in braided hose
- Thread starter
- #425
ok..been cleaning, stripping, soldering and crimping wiring for the exterior lights (headlights, Tail, turn, stop and reverse)....now im in a a bit of a pickle....do i use the braided hose (@scottryana and @Boltripper sent) to isolate each 'bunch' (e.g. the hazard/turn wires) or are they better for connecting from my plastic hoses to the external components (e.g. water temp gauge, fuel solenoid etc).????
the hoses i have in mind... tough and flexible....i can probably wrap them in the tape the guys sent me once i have the wires inside...the braided hoses the guys sent can handle wires for the headlights etc...but wont comfortably carry all the wiring for the exterior bunched together.
the hoses i have in mind... tough and flexible....i can probably wrap them in the tape the guys sent me once i have the wires inside...the braided hoses the guys sent can handle wires for the headlights etc...but wont comfortably carry all the wiring for the exterior bunched together.
- Thread starter
- #426
another thing.....what is the best route to take for the water temp, fuel solenoid and the oil pressure gauge.... firewall to engine or from the fender to the engine? any pics would help
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- #427
last thing.....with the new gearbox, i finally have the CDL wires.....when connecting to the reverse switch i found four wires (two for the reverse and assuming 2 for the CDL)....is that correct? one to the switch and the other earth???
I would just use the white split tube that you have there for the exterior stuff and use the woven stuff we sent to do the interior stuff.
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- #429
thanx....how about advice on which way to run the wiring for the sensors 
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- #430
.... did a test to see if everything was connected properly.... put the battery in....and immediately the headlights came on!!!!!removed the fuses and said...ok, maybe i connected THOSE wrong.....tried the taillights....left go on, right...nothing.....tried the brakes....right goes on, left NOTHING......hazard blinks the brake lights, left turn works (with the exception of the rear brake light instead of the flasher) right wont go on......
well...guess its back to the drawing board yet again....
this time i think i will go one step at a time....start with the easiest....stop and rev lights, then tail, then headlights and then the hazard/turn lights.....
i soooooooooooooooo wanted to say in the 'What you did with your 80 this weekend' thread that i got here out.....will have to wait a few more days i guess...
- Thread starter
- #431
didnt use much of the shrink wraps and non of the solder-less crimps......wanted to make sure everything worked before adding the 'cosmetics'...
on the other hand, found a 'pond' of something leaking near the left front wheel...went tracing its source....the idiot mechanic used the hose going to the heater system instead of the hydraulic reservoir one......and to make it up, he just closed the difference with a cloth wrapped in bailing wire.....well.....thats what you get for being in Sudan..
as much as i do get frustrated and sometimes depressed, im actually enjoying this because of this forum and its members.....thank you
on the other hand, found a 'pond' of something leaking near the left front wheel...went tracing its source....the idiot mechanic used the hose going to the heater system instead of the hydraulic reservoir one......and to make it up, he just closed the difference with a cloth wrapped in bailing wire.....well.....thats what you get for being in Sudan..
as much as i do get frustrated and sometimes depressed, im actually enjoying this because of this forum and its members.....thank you
- Thread starter
- #432
next week we have a visit to the northern desert....i was sooooooo anticipating taking my zombie there....not so sure now....but promise to do my best to get here out soon.
prayers welcome
prayers welcome
Wait he used the heater house as hydraulic power steering line??!! That's crazy Haha
- Thread starter
- #434
not only that....he didnt know WHERE to connect the outlets for the heater hose, so he 'casually' plugged them with plastic grocery bag.....IM SERIOUS.....THATS why i NEED to do this on my own....im sure i will also find PLENTY of loose bolts here and there...a very good learning experience....
lckarl
SILVER Star
I haven't been on Mud much lately so I just came across this thread. Props to you guys for helping Moe bring his 80 back from the dead. Moe, good luck with your project, your persistence will pay off. Keep at it.
I can't remember, did you remove the entire factory wiring harness for your rig ? Do you have the factory wiring diagrams ?
I'll bet that you don't have any grounding wired from the body to the frame and frame to engine and all back to the battery. Those grounds have to be sizeable and plentiful to make sure all sections complete the circuits. The lighting issues you describe appear to be lack of grounding (other than the headlights on) Good luck!
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- #438
thank you....and yes, what they sent was more than enough to help me to maintain the electrical.
hope that i get her running soon.....thanx again
yes i did.....removed everything....wires were burnt, corroded or just very poor quality....and yes i do have the FSM thanx to Bifmark.
i just read this....and you, as usual, are absolutely right.....i only found one ground to the engine block.....seems they 'forgot' to install the other one which i am 100% sure WAS there to begin with.....from the engine to the chassis.
the headlights i found the relay switch inside was bent....this was one of my quick fixes when i drove it to get lights on....i shoved a piece of plastic to get it to connect....i gently bent it back and now works perfect.
- Thread starter
- #439
ok....worked all of last night and mst of today on revising my wiring.....found i made a few mistakes....as i said, i am still in the early learning stages.
1- the tail lights: i got the wiring mixed up, as im not using a specific colouring scheme due to the amount of quality wiring i have...so i got to mark every wire and connector. Found i reversed some and ignored to actually connect some (thinking they were the auxiliary wires i put in the connector for the future rear diff wiring etc).
2- Headlights: found the relay stuck in on due to how i had to turn on the lights in the past. used to just place a piece of plastic to get to connect and eventually it bent the relay switch inside.
3- As @BILT4ME pointed out....i apparently dont have ANY ground to the chassis/body. This caused some lights not to come on at all (especially the tail lights).
im using the connectors now for most of the switching, but complete wires all the way for the power and earth.
will give here another test in a few hours.....
1- the tail lights: i got the wiring mixed up, as im not using a specific colouring scheme due to the amount of quality wiring i have...so i got to mark every wire and connector. Found i reversed some and ignored to actually connect some (thinking they were the auxiliary wires i put in the connector for the future rear diff wiring etc).
2- Headlights: found the relay stuck in on due to how i had to turn on the lights in the past. used to just place a piece of plastic to get to connect and eventually it bent the relay switch inside.
3- As @BILT4ME pointed out....i apparently dont have ANY ground to the chassis/body. This caused some lights not to come on at all (especially the tail lights).
im using the connectors now for most of the switching, but complete wires all the way for the power and earth.
will give here another test in a few hours.....
- Thread starter
- #440
@scottryana @BILT4ME 4me ....need ur help.....having an issue here.....gauge fuse keeps blowing....tested with ohmmeter and the fuel solenoid is giving me ground??? im sure its not supposed to be ground.....what could be the issue here.???
disconnected all the front and the combination meter to minimize tracing, but still not a clue whats happening....i also installed a ground from the engine block to chassis and body as advised.
disconnected all the front and the combination meter to minimize tracing, but still not a clue whats happening....i also installed a ground from the engine block to chassis and body as advised.
