I gotta do this! Thanks for the report.
Builds 1992 LJ78 build/refresh (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Nas90tdi
- Start date
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Nice write up Kris! Quite the temp drop!
To recap from looking from the outside in, the results were more from resetting the temp on the clutch fan itself
and changing the oil viscosity, than the clutch actually needing oil, correct? Prior to the job, the clutch was
still full of oil, none of the old oil had leaked out?
To recap from looking from the outside in, the results were more from resetting the temp on the clutch fan itself
and changing the oil viscosity, than the clutch actually needing oil, correct? Prior to the job, the clutch was
still full of oil, none of the old oil had leaked out?
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
- Thread starter
- #84
If you are down my way Jim let me know. I bought a 6 pack of the silicone. It was only a couple of bucks more on Amazon. You can have a couple of bottles. Even if I am not around I could leave it out for you if it was during the week or something.
Don, the clutch did not have any leaks in it. I got about what I put back in ,out. It's sort of hard to tell as it is so thick. When I pulled it apart I wiped a lot up with paper towels on the exposed surfaces. And, then drained it. I didn't really measure what I took out since I knew it wouldn't really be very accurate anyway.
When I split it, the adjustment screws were in the middle of their adjustment. To get it to open at 95F I moved them almost all the way one direction in the slot. I wish after I had done it that I had heated it to opening just to see where it was set at before. But, I had already moved it before I thought about it. Doesn't really matter, but now I am curious.
Don, the clutch did not have any leaks in it. I got about what I put back in ,out. It's sort of hard to tell as it is so thick. When I pulled it apart I wiped a lot up with paper towels on the exposed surfaces. And, then drained it. I didn't really measure what I took out since I knew it wouldn't really be very accurate anyway.
When I split it, the adjustment screws were in the middle of their adjustment. To get it to open at 95F I moved them almost all the way one direction in the slot. I wish after I had done it that I had heated it to opening just to see where it was set at before. But, I had already moved it before I thought about it. Doesn't really matter, but now I am curious.
- Thread starter
- #85
Thanks for clarifying that Kris!
Nice Job!
Nice Job!
- Thread starter
- #87
Has anyone found a product to use in place of the
61784. Pad, Rear Wheel Opening Extension, No.1
61783-60020
Some of mine is cracked up ,but I would rather just buy it by the foot and replace it all instead of paying 10-15.00 each for all of them.
61784. Pad, Rear Wheel Opening Extension, No.1
61783-60020
Some of mine is cracked up ,but I would rather just buy it by the foot and replace it all instead of paying 10-15.00 each for all of them.
Would something like this work? Fender Flare Trim
My brother is having issues with it falling out on his HDJ81, it would be good to find an alternate product.
- Thread starter
- #89
I had looked at a similar trim. I think the problem is it being convex instead of concave. I would think you would have trouble getting it laying in there flat.
Might be worth a shot however. That stuff is usually pretty cheap.
Might be worth a shot however. That stuff is usually pretty cheap.
Toyota Landcruiser Hilux 4WD Wheel Arch Fender Flare h Rubber Seal | eBay
I bought some of this to re-do all flares and it works great!
I bought some of this to re-do all flares and it works great!
- Thread starter
- #91
Thanks Malteser. I have that exact page open currently. I was wondering if it worked. That's what I am going to do.
I also found this but it was still going to be pretty pricey.
Adding Rubber Flare Trim - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...0433&sr=8-1&keywords=Toyota++Fender+Flare+Pad
I also found this but it was still going to be pretty pricey.
Adding Rubber Flare Trim - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...0433&sr=8-1&keywords=Toyota++Fender+Flare+Pad
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Further to the fan upgrade discussion, I found a used fan and hub from an HDJ81. I put the fan onto the LJ78 hub and installed to my LJ78. Seems like a very ideal fan upgrade for the truck. Take a look here: LJ78 Big Fan Upgrade #2
@malteser @Nas90tdi
@malteser @Nas90tdi
- Thread starter
- #93
After getting sidetracked on other projects and vacation I am working on getting the intercooler on the truck.
I am using an intercooler similar to the ones several others have used. It is the 11"X9"X3.5" core but with 2.5" I/O instead of the bigger ones. I didn't want the step downs in the hoses. I made the intake flange with a 2.5" inlet for the same reason. I will use 2.5" all the way from the turbo with only the one step right at the turbo.
I went with the automotive Bosch pump. I am not crazy about trusting a livewell pump in this application. I will run that off an ignition switched relay.
I am using a slightly smaller radiator than some have. My plan is to mount it horizontally in line with the front crossmember and make a sheetmetal scoop just below the grill. This should force air across the radiator. But, not block the actual vehicle radiator at all. I didn't want to introduce airflow restriction in front of an already borderline cooling system. That may change if I am getting too much stuff built up on it. Or. I may need to put some sort of screen in front to keep stuff out.
Thanks to gtssportcoupe for the drawing on the flange. Saved me the time of drawing it up and working out the kinks. I just substituted 2.5" tube in place of the 2".
Hopefully this weekend I can get my mounts mocked up and wiring and water hoses in place. I will order my intake piping after I settle on a final location for the intercooler.
I am using an intercooler similar to the ones several others have used. It is the 11"X9"X3.5" core but with 2.5" I/O instead of the bigger ones. I didn't want the step downs in the hoses. I made the intake flange with a 2.5" inlet for the same reason. I will use 2.5" all the way from the turbo with only the one step right at the turbo.
I went with the automotive Bosch pump. I am not crazy about trusting a livewell pump in this application. I will run that off an ignition switched relay.
I am using a slightly smaller radiator than some have. My plan is to mount it horizontally in line with the front crossmember and make a sheetmetal scoop just below the grill. This should force air across the radiator. But, not block the actual vehicle radiator at all. I didn't want to introduce airflow restriction in front of an already borderline cooling system. That may change if I am getting too much stuff built up on it. Or. I may need to put some sort of screen in front to keep stuff out.
Thanks to gtssportcoupe for the drawing on the flange. Saved me the time of drawing it up and working out the kinks. I just substituted 2.5" tube in place of the 2".
Hopefully this weekend I can get my mounts mocked up and wiring and water hoses in place. I will order my intake piping after I settle on a final location for the intercooler.
Awesome Kris! Can't wait to see how the scoop and rad look and work on this one.
- Thread starter
- #95
Got the preliminary portion of the mount worked out I believe. I will build the bottom mount tomorrow and make sure it's all works and is not touching anything. I really didn't want it in there on an angle, but once I started seeing how it fit various way, I understand why everyones is at an angle. It would be doable other locations, but would take some gymnastics to make it work.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Right on Kris! Looks good so far. I run the Bosch pump too. Mine runs full time (has for the last 6 years). I pulled it apart to check the brushes this year, and they were about 90% still!! Definitely a well built pump.
- Thread starter
- #97
I built my radiator support and scoop over it Saturday. I think it should work like I planned. I test fit the bumper and it gives it almost 2" of clear space at the scoop. This theoretically should force air directly over the radiator. I will likely build some sort of protection on the bottom at some point. But, for now, it should be fine. I will have to redesign when I build a winch bumper, but maybe not if it is far enough back. Pump will mount to the left on crossmember.
I have my pump bracket, piping and misc plumbing showing up through the week. So, hopefully with a couple of evenings I can call it done and start testing.
I have my pump bracket, piping and misc plumbing showing up through the week. So, hopefully with a couple of evenings I can call it done and start testing.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
That is quite an innovative way of mounting the intercooler radiator in the front. I like how it doesn't block the radiator. My intercooler fills the two oval holes in the piece above the bumper. Which is great for the intercooler, but probably does block some air flow to the radiator.
Will be interesting to see how yours does during testing. If it does start to heat soak, you could put a slim fan on top of the intercooler in the scoop box you made. Would be protected in there anyhow. The SPAL fans pulls some pretty major air.
Will be interesting to see how yours does during testing. If it does start to heat soak, you could put a slim fan on top of the intercooler in the scoop box you made. Would be protected in there anyhow. The SPAL fans pulls some pretty major air.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #99
Hey Nick. Yep, that's the plan if I have heat soak. Try a fan. Those thing do move some serious volume for such a small fan.
I actually made a mistake when I was building it. I got a little fab happy and overbuilt it and in the process, made it wider than I planned. And, then was too lazy to cut it apart and make it narrower.I wanted it to be tighter on the side to stop flow loss around the radiator. It may turn out to be no issue ,or I can cut foam blacks and seal the edges.
Pump wiring and pump mount went in this afternoon. I used a fused relay so I can pop the fuse out if I have the key on for any reason with the truck not running for any length of time. I was going to put a switch on it, but decided the fuse was easier since it was all on board. I will finish plumbing it up tomorrow. Which is actually good. I can run the system on just the liquid side for a day or two and make sure it's not leaking anywhere before my intake parts arrive.
I actually made a mistake when I was building it. I got a little fab happy and overbuilt it and in the process, made it wider than I planned. And, then was too lazy to cut it apart and make it narrower.I wanted it to be tighter on the side to stop flow loss around the radiator. It may turn out to be no issue ,or I can cut foam blacks and seal the edges.
Pump wiring and pump mount went in this afternoon. I used a fused relay so I can pop the fuse out if I have the key on for any reason with the truck not running for any length of time. I was going to put a switch on it, but decided the fuse was easier since it was all on board. I will finish plumbing it up tomorrow. Which is actually good. I can run the system on just the liquid side for a day or two and make sure it's not leaking anywhere before my intake parts arrive.
- Thread starter
- #100
Intercooler is plumbed up. I am going to rebuild the intake piece ,I believe, to relieve a little stress on the hoses. Or, find a hose that has a shorter bend. Even cutting the hose down that one is a little tight and touching the under hood insulation. I made the crossover pipe oval to keep it off the valve cover. Some of the plumbing I bought didn't line up exactly as I planned. The sweep on the ell hoses is rather sharp ,so it puts things slightly off from what I planned. For now I just used 2.5" exhaust pipe to make the difference. I may weld up piping for it and just use the silicone hoses to isolate vibration between the engine and intercooler.
So far my smaller radiator seems to be working great mounted horizontally with the scoop under the grill. I used 2" thick dense foam on the sides and in front under the bumper edge to force all airflow over the core.
After a hard test drive the radiator is 110F. It was about 90F and I did all my test runs with the A/C cranked to put the most load on the engine.
I can hold 1100F if I work at it. Mostly steep hills and keeping it from downshifting. Overall I would say my average on decently steep hills is 800-950F. That is a huge difference. I had my EGT alarm set at 1375F during preliminary testing to get a baseline and could spike it to that easily. Across the board I would say I am seeing a 3-400F drop. With the digital gauge it moves so quickly it's hard to get an exact reading for any one location. But, overall, it's a huge drop.
I am currently running about 13PSI boost. I am going to start raising that and turn the fuel up until I get a happy medium that hopefully won't break about 1250F max.
So far my smaller radiator seems to be working great mounted horizontally with the scoop under the grill. I used 2" thick dense foam on the sides and in front under the bumper edge to force all airflow over the core.
After a hard test drive the radiator is 110F. It was about 90F and I did all my test runs with the A/C cranked to put the most load on the engine.
I can hold 1100F if I work at it. Mostly steep hills and keeping it from downshifting. Overall I would say my average on decently steep hills is 800-950F. That is a huge difference. I had my EGT alarm set at 1375F during preliminary testing to get a baseline and could spike it to that easily. Across the board I would say I am seeing a 3-400F drop. With the digital gauge it moves so quickly it's hard to get an exact reading for any one location. But, overall, it's a huge drop.
I am currently running about 13PSI boost. I am going to start raising that and turn the fuel up until I get a happy medium that hopefully won't break about 1250F max.
