Builds 1992 LJ78 build/refresh (1 Viewer)

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I have been tinkering around with a winch bumper for a few weeks now. I thought I would see if I could build one without buying any steel, just using what I had laying around.
May not be my final bumper and it has a couple of things I am not crazy about, but I built it with free steel. So, overall it will work until I decide to spend some money and build another.

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Looks good to me! I like the compact size. Looking forward to seeing it with the winch.

Did your truck come with a factory bull bar? If so, any plans on mounting it to your custom bumper? I always meant to put mine back on, but have not got to it yet.
 
No, I never had the bar. It was on the bumper at some point. It discolored the chrome. But, by the time I got the truck it was gone.
I do have one from one of my Land Rovers. I actually dug it out and then decided against it.
 
Moved the intercooler radiator today and installed my bumper.
I haven't really driven the truck yet to see how the change and location and the loss of the directional air channel effects the EGT efficiency. I have no doubt it will suffer some. I did put a diverter in the grill opening to try to direct air up into the area blocked by the area of the grill that is solid.
I will drive it some tomorrow and see how it performs in the new location. It has gotten cold here now, so I really won't know for certain until summer if it effects the water temps with the A/C running on a hot day.

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Hopefully I don't regret it, but I bought a cheap winch. I have always ran Warn or Superwinch. But, they have gotten extremely expensive and the cheaper versions of those are also just Chinese built junk.
So, I picked the 13k X-Bull partly because it came with actual Dyneema rope on it. And, it has gotten a lot of good reviews. Some bad, but I have killed a Warn to. So, a bit of bad press doesn't really bother me much if it's not the major portion. Most people, myself included, will never review a product they have no trouble with. So, we will see.
I don't actually get myself in situations that a winch is a make or break deal anymore either. So, that helped the decision.
I ditched all the factory wiring that came with it and made all new cables and moved the solenoid up onto the fender by the breather. Solenoid failure is always a big portion of any winches reviews. So, keep it dry and run proper gauge cable and I suspect it will be fine.

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My next project is figuring out why my glow plugs are not behaving correctly.
Superglow system checks out, but I have started getting rough smoky starts again.
I used NKT glow plugs when I replaced them. I have found anecdotal evidence online stating that they don't get hot enough quickly enough during the first glow cycle. Which is under 6 seconds even at freezing. That doesn't 100 percent check out as they seemed to do ok when I first put them in. However, that was early summer so it was warmer, and they may not be getting as hot since they aren't brand new.
I have another set of them, I think I will give them a try and maybe do a compression test while I am in there just to check that out.
If that doesn't fix the issue, I might either go to a manual switch to make the first stage last longer or try some genuine plugs.
If all else fails I will go to a 10V glow plug and a regular glow plug timer and ditch the Superglow sytem. It's a great idea, but it is 26 yrs old. I can see it being a bit touchy after all this time.
 
That winch/bumper combo looks just plain sexy! Very nice. So compact and tidy. I like it. I'm sure that winch will be just fine.

I've been running Bosch Duraterm glow plugs. With the cold (freezing) weather we just had, truck still starts perfect and clean with one glow. It does stay on longer than 6 seconds though I think. Next time it's cold I'll time it, but I think it's more like about 8 seconds.

Have you done a compression test on the motor?

Another trick for easier starting is to advance the pump just a touch. The pump base timing is only used for the first few seconds on start-up, and then the computer takes over and puts the timing back to where it wants it. So advancing the pump only impacts the first few seconds of start-up.

When these pumps start to wear out, timing does effectively get retarded a bit. I lucked into a brand new injection pump last year, which might be partly why my starting is so easy now.
 
Thanks Nick.
I have not done a compression test since I got it. I couldn't find my tester when I did the glow plugs initially and didn't feel like pulling them again just for the test as I wasn't having any issues after the new plugs went in.
I am basing that time on the image in the FSM that shows light length on initial glow as part of the Superglow testing procedures. Basically 5.1 seconds at freezing.And, it closely correlates to what I am seeing for my initial stage.
I understand the Superglow system for the most part, but find certain areas of it to be unnecessarily complex for such a simple task.
I have not looked into adjusting the pump timing. What is confusing me is that initially after replacing the plugs I was getting a nice clean start. That is certainly not the case now. It is back as bad as it was prior to the swap.

Do you happen to know that part number you are using on the Bosch plugs?

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Thanks Nick.
I have not done a compression test since I got it. I couldn't find my tester when I did the glow plugs initially and didn't feel like pulling them again just for the test as I wasn't having any issues after the new plugs went in.
I am basing that time on the image in the FSM that shows light length on initial glow as part of the Superglow testing procedures. Basically 5.1 seconds at freezing.And, it closely correlates to what I am seeing for my initial stage.
I understand the Superglow system for the most part, but find certain areas of it to be unnecessarily complex for such a simple task.
I have not looked into adjusting the pump timing. What is confusing me is that initially after replacing the plugs I was getting a nice clean start. That is certainly not the case now. It is back as bad as it was prior to the swap.

Do you happen to know that part number you are using on the Bosch plugs?

Hey Kris,

The manual you're looking at there is for the 2LT-II. While the motor is mostly the same as the 2LTE, the glow system might have some differences. From the ECD V3 manual, this is how the 2LTE super glow works. Looks basically the same, but the times are a bit different.

Do you get a perfect start if you glow twice?

These are the glow plugs I bought: GLP042 BOSCH GLOW PLUG TOYOTA Hilux 2.4 Diesel Turbo Wagon 90-95 2LT 92bhp | eBay


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Thanks. I didn't realize that wasn't the correct info on the Superglow system on the 2LTE. Good to know.
No, I do not get a clean start with another cycle. That's actually what is leading to the compression test and an opportunity to pull the glow plugs and test them out of the truck. I am getting no extreme resistance values testing them in the truck. But, I want to test on the bench and also take a look at them. I am wondering if they are starting to fail as it seems this has been a slightly progressive problem. And, having another brand new set makes it an easy test once I verify compression.
 
Thanks. I didn't realize that wasn't the correct info on the Superglow system on the 2LTE. Good to know.
No, I do not get a clean start with another cycle. That's actually what is leading to the compression test and an opportunity to pull the glow plugs and test them out of the truck. I am getting no extreme resistance values testing them in the truck. But, I want to test on the bench and also take a look at them. I am wondering if they are starting to fail as it seems this has been a slightly progressive problem. And, having another brand new set makes it an easy test once I verify compression.

When I had low compression or glow issues in the past, the second glow often made all the difference. If you're not seeing a difference, I wonder if you're getting a bit of air in your fuel. I ended up putting hose clamps on all my rubber fuel line connections in the engine bay. I've had air leaks a number of times now, and the hose clamps fixed them each time. One of the worst is the tiny hose from the fuel return rail back to the injection pump. Also, if you've had your injectors out at all, the nut holding the fuel return rail to the injectors needs more than factory torque to keep the air out (my experience anyhow). Another common point for air to get in is the primer pump (above fuel filter). I bought a knock off ebay one which has held up well.
 
You had mentioned that before. It's definitely a valid idea. I just never pursued it after I replaced the glow plugs and cleaned up the starting issues. Thanks for the reminder.
My primer pump doesn't work either, so it could definitely be something to look into.
 
You had mentioned that before. It's definitely a valid idea. I just never pursued it after I replaced the glow plugs and cleaned up the starting issues. Thanks for the reminder.
My primer pump doesn't work either, so it could definitely be something to look into.

Definitely start with the primer pump then! I don't remember exactly which one I ordered, but was probably this one (can't beat the price!): Diesel Fuel Filter Primer Pump Assembly Hilux LN106 LN107 LN111 LN56 LN86 2L 3L | eBay
 
Oh wow. That's way cheaper than the genuine one. Which is why I haven't replaced mine yet. I didn't like that it wasn't working, but didn't want to fork over the cash for a new one. Thanks for the link.
 
I was thinking about something Nick. I bet you are spot on that my issue is fuel related.
If the truck sits overnight, it starts hard and smoky. If I kill it and restart within a few minutes, it fires immediately. If I let it sit for a couple of hours but the engine is still warm it takes it a second longer to catch. No smoke and roughness, but a bit slower to catch.
It makes sense if I have a small amount of air getting in through a hose or the primer pump. It get's progressively worse the longer the truck sits because more air is allowed into the system. It's never enough to make it not crank and really is only blatantly obvious on a cold start.
I drove the truck a lot today and shut if off for various amounts of time throughout the day. Starting speed is related to how long it was shut down ,I think, now that I was really paying attention to each start to see how it behaved.
 

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