Builds 1989 FJ62 Refresh - Update Build (6 Viewers)

[diesellibrarian]

Before you start swapping boosters and such, check the adjustment of the rear brakes. They’re supposed to self-adjust, but that only works if the e-brake bell cranks are not all seized up. The service manual will show you the procedure for adjusting the rear brake shoes. There’s a bit of a knack to it, but it’s not difficult and it will only cost you a bit of time.

If the rear shoes are worn or out of adjustment, your brakes will always feel soft because of the pedal travel required to get the shoes to hit the drum. So start there before you throw any more parts at it.

 

[Beams37]

Before you start swapping boosters and such, check the adjustment of the rear brakes. They’re supposed to self-adjust, but that only works if the e-brake bell cranks are not all seized up. The service manual will show you the procedure for adjusting the rear brake shoes. There’s a bit of a knack to it, but it’s not difficult and it will only cost you a bit of time.

If the rear shoes are worn or out of adjustment, your brakes will always feel soft because of the pedal travel required to get the shoes to hit the drum. So start there before you throw any more parts at it.

Thanks! That's great info. I have a good bit of time off over the next couple of weeks. I'll dig into them and see what's happening!

 

[Beams37]

Started installing the @torfab LED headlight kit tonight. Got it 100% functional, but will button up tomorrow. Will be redoing the gaskets around the headlight bezels and will likely change out all the little screws holding the headlight trim on. They were pretty rough and several barely came out. I don't think I'll ever need to take them out, but want it to be easy if I do.

Pics tomorrow!

 

[Beams37]

Ok. Got the lights working last night, but ran out of steam. So, here is how it sat overnight.

During the process, I replaced all of the screws that hold the frames that hold the light housings in the truck. If you ever do this or replace your lights, these will be a nightmare. Replaced with stainless screws, so hoping they will hold up for another 35 years.

Here is the final product. I only have 1 regret ... I didn't replace the rest of the lights (markers, turn signals, etc.) with LED at the same time.

 

[RevISK]

Ok. Got the lights working last night, but ran out of steam. So, here is how it sat overnight.
View attachment 3797104View attachment 3797106

During the process, I replaced all of the screws that hold the frames that hold the light housings in the truck. If you ever do this or replace your lights, these will be a nightmare. Replaced with stainless screws, so hoping they will hold up for another 35 years.

View attachment 3797107

Here is the final product. I only have 1 regret ... I didn't replace the rest of the lights (markers, turn signals, etc.) with LED at the same time.

View attachment 3797108

No pictures of them on?

 

[Beams37]

No pictures of them on?

Bro. They're so bright you'd just see glare. I'll get something tomorrow. I added the harness that allows all 4 lights on for low beams.

 

[Beams37]

Replacing sway bar links. All the bolts came out super easy, except this F’r. Any recommendations??

 

[RevISK]

Heat, then fire.
That bolt is almost certainly married, for better or worse, to that bushing.

 

[RevISK]

But since it’s adjacent to the gas tank… have fun!

 

[Beams37]

But since it’s adjacent to the gas tank… have fun!

Yeah. Have tried a little heat. May just have to get a fire extinguisher and pray. Lol

 

[RevISK]

Tinfoil might not be the worst idea

 

[Beams37]

Tinfoil might not be the worst idea

Right on.

All I can say is BFH is NOT doing the trick.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Can you get the frame bracket off and past the tank?

 

[Beams37]

Can you get the frame bracket off and past the tank?

Yup. Lol

Trying to burn out bushing now.

 

[RevISK]

Rear Sway Bar Link Kit - 6x Series - Extended (Pair) (SUS60RSWAY)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

 

[RevISK]

Your existing ones look pretty tired.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Yup. Lol

Trying to burn out bushing now.

View attachment 3797620

Is it broken where the rod meets the bushing?

 

[Beams37]

Im removing them to put on the @TRAIL TAILOR extended links. Ended up removing the bracket and cutting each end of the bolt off. The bolt was married to the sleeve in the bushing. Going to replace all these bolts now. And will grease the F out them.

 

[Beams37]

Ok. After getting some new grade 8 hardware for the new extended sway bar links, I got them installed, but will need new bushings (seems to be the story for this truck). So, I'll be ordering tonight and installing ASAP before I tighten everything down.

Pic for @RevISK

 

[Beams37]

Before you start swapping boosters and such, check the adjustment of the rear brakes. They’re supposed to self-adjust, but that only works if the e-brake bell cranks are not all seized up. The service manual will show you the procedure for adjusting the rear brake shoes. There’s a bit of a knack to it, but it’s not difficult and it will only cost you a bit of time.

If the rear shoes are worn or out of adjustment, your brakes will always feel soft because of the pedal travel required to get the shoes to hit the drum. So start there before you throw any more parts at it.

To get the sway bar link bracket off, I had to remove the rear passenger tire. So, while it was off, I decided to open up the drum. Like others have posted, one of the holes on the front of the drum that you can run a bolt into to assist with pressing the drum off had a bolt sheered off in it. So, one isn't much helpful.

I am going to assume the self-adjust mechanism is working, because I had to back it off a country mile. I will also say that it is almost impossible to explain how to do that (even with FSM and many posts), but once you figure out it's orgasmic. Needless to say, after 2 hours I got the drum off. It had a small (maybe 1mm) lip on the drum. The shoes have about 3mm left on them. FSM says 1.5mm minimum. At this point, it may make sense to go ahead and replace them, but I have no experience with drum brakes, so may just put them back on.

I'm open to thoughts, but still may add the new booster.