Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

[FJBen]

So after about an hour, I got the tranny down. I used a 2x4 across the fenders and a strap to the engine hook to hold up the rear of the engine.
Borrowed my friends harbor freight tranny jack which worked OK, and used my ATV lift jack for safety just in case.

As expected, this is what I found.

And as expected, the seal is bad again. I can smell the gear oil looking at this picture... Oil all over the shaft and in that bearing retainer piece.

I'm assuming it failed again because I have a speedi-sleeve on there and it's just too much wearing on the stock sized seal. I replaced this seal before I rebuilt the engine. It leaked immediately. I pulled right after I got it running and noticed a small groove on the input shaft and put a speedi-sleeve on and stock seal and no leaks for 10K miles. Without the speedi-sleeve there must have been enough of a groove to leak, or I had a bad seal. I have a couple of options.

1: replace with stock seal, $20 later, will probably seal for another 10K miles like this one did then start leaking. OR it will start leaking again right away. Gamble.

2: Replace input shaft. Now I'm not sure a new one exists anymore for the B series. A few sites show them, but most don't and show NLA. Sounds like I will need a good used one. However, replacing the input shaft, you might as well rebuild the whole transmission. Thats a bummer because the tranny shifts good, has no noises and no lateral play that I can detect. $550ish dollars plus some special tools if I do it myself, learning how to rebuild that h55f and plus pulling apart the t-case I just did all while not being at my shop/house.

3. This I suppose could be a bandaid, but possibly better than option 1. The seal for the input shaft on the tranny is NOK AH 1893G. I have called a place in town to run some numbers on seals. They are ordering a double lipped version (allegedly) of the 1893G and the 1894G which 1mm taller. That will possibly offset the seal lip from the groove. I will probably remove the speedi-sleeve if these seals truly are double lipped and not just a seal with a dust lip. They aren't NOK brand, not sure on brand so we will see tomorrow what they are.

 

[coldtaco]

Just a thought, I know it's getto. If there is enough room maybe try to install two seals, so one would be riding on a smooth part.

 

[PabloCruise]

Does Marlin have a double seal for the H55?

 

[FJBen]

Just a thought, I know it's getto. If there is enough room maybe try to install two seals, so one would be riding on a smooth part.

not enough room for that, but thinking of shimming a seal or not driving it in as far.

 

[FJBen]

Does Marlin have a double seal for the H55?

i don’t think so. I haven’t called so I can’t be sure, but hopefully one of these work.

 

[FJBen]

So got the seals in. Not much difference at all. They aren't a true double lipped seal, I doubt those exist for this size according to the parts guy. He couldn't find any. I don't think they will be offset enough to move off of the groove if I remove the speedi sleev.

This is the direct replacement seal. 48mm x 32mm x 7mm. You can see the main seal lip is different. It's offset about .70mm to the best I can measure.

This is the 8mm height vs stock seal. They are almost identical in sealing spot.

So that brings me to my question, keep the speedi-sleeve and use the seal, or remove the speedi-sleeve and hope/measure the new seal isn't on the same groove spot?
THere is no way for me to tell without removing the sleeve. So it's $40 if I have to speedi-sleeve again. I already know, it didn't work before with a standard NOK seal.

However, I test fit a new seal (not in nosecone) and the spring did not pop off like it did on the NOK seal. I had a hell of a time getting that seal on without a bunch of ghetto tactics to get it to slip over the shaft without popping the seal. The new seal is still a pretty snug fit.

I'm leaning towards putting the new seal on with the speedi-sleeve and running with it. If it blows again I'll just just rebuild the whole tranny. Time/tools/shop area isn't the best and could potentially change any week now to moving and not having a space. I got the tranny pulled in 3 hours away from home, it's not terrible, but not a fun job. Rebuilding the tranny will take me quite a while learning I bet.

thoughts?

 

[PabloCruise]

Or the @stinkyfj60 option (not sure how that term came about) - find a new input shaft?

 

[cruiserdan]

Or the @stinkyfj60 option (not sure how that term came about) - find a new input shaft?

Good luck with that. B input shafts are long-gone.

 

[FJBen]

Or the @stinkyfj60 option (not sure how that term came about) - find a new input shaft?

Good luck with that. B input shafts are long-gone.

as dan is saying, that’s the info I’ve been getting. Long gone are Those shafts. Used seems the only option.

Inwill say the new seals go on easier test fitting so that gives me hope with the speedi sleeve. It’s possible I messed up that NOK seal trying to get it to fit. ive got gaskets on the way so I’ll seal it up next week and stab it back in. That should be fun...


other thoughts,10k miles ago this was clean. I’m assuming since my tcase vent was clogged, it was pushing oil everywhere. when the bad tcase/tranny seal filled up the tcase enough and drained the tranny, it quit spitting oil out the H55f shifter and pushed out the front input seal.
Just a theory. There’s not a lot of oil and it wipes off easy which makes me think it wasn’t happening a long time.

 

[FJBen]

And just for fun, the ghetto engine hoist

 

[AirheadNut]

I wonder if a grooved shaft like that could be repaired with a spray welding process, then turned back to original size on a lathe.

 

[cruiserdan]

If you can weld crank journals, why not this?

 

[TonyP]

Spray welding is an option if you can find a competent shop to do it and turn the surface properly. It's easy to screw up a spray weld so finding someone who can do it may be tough.

 

[FJBen]

I wonder if a grooved shaft like that could be repaired with a spray welding process, then turned back to original size on a lathe.

That was one of my thoughts as well. I was thinking like @cruiserdan they weld/grind cranks. It’s weird the groove isn’t that deep at all, but obviously enough to leak.
I thought about that weld/grind but it’s finding a competent shop and hope they don’t screw it up like @TonyP said.

So what option do the B guys have for an H55f if the tranny craps out? New H55f and swap used input shaft?

 

[cruiserdan]

So what option do the B guys have for an H55f if the tranny craps out? New H55f and swap used input shaft?

Contact Cruiser Outfitters. They have solutions. One way is to swap input shafts, the other is use a spacer they have available that adapts the H transmission. You do need to mess with driveshafts and mounting for the latter.

 

[jblueridge]

Keep the faith with speedi sleeve.

 

[FJBen]

Contact Cruiser Outfitters. They have solutions. One way is to swap input shafts, the other is use a spacer they have available that adapts the H transmission. You do need to mess with driveshafts and mounting for the latter.

Yeah I was reading about that option of the spacer. That might be the "nuclear" option if I have to do that for some reason but that at least bodes well for the future.

 

[FJBen]

Keep the faith with speedi sleeve.

That's the plan for now. Temps will be up next week into the high 60s-70s so thats good for some shop time!
@PabloCruise we need to get your 40 fixed!

 

[PabloCruise]

That's the plan for now. Temps will be up next week into the high 60s-70s so thats good for some shop time!
@PabloCruise we need to get your 40 fixed!

Let me know when you are ready to stab the H55 back in, I imagine you might benefit from an additional set of paws...

 

[PabloCruise]

I wonder if a grooved shaft like that could be repaired with a spray welding process, then turned back to original size on a lathe.

Just google "I need to repair my shaft"