Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

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No tint. It looks like s*** and you can't see out of the truck like you need to. My BJ74 had tint and that was the first thing I ripped out.
You are driving a RHD vehicle in a LHD world. You need to have the best visibility possible.
 
cruiserdan said:
No tint. It looks like s*** and you can't see out of the truck like you need to. My BJ74 had tint and that was the first thing I ripped out.
You are driving a RHD vehicle in a LHD world. You need to have the best visibility possible.
Click to expand...

let me say it won’t be a dark tint. I just like a little privacy and less fishbowl. It would be a lighter tint. I don’t like the super black and yes it sucks at night with dark tint. This one used to have tint, but it was ripped out awhile ago.
 
Your choice. I went way out of my way to chip all that offensive s*** off my glass.. I could NOT tolerate it.

Oh, I'm an old irritable dude.....:lol:
 
If windows are glass, I'd tint them.
Flexible clear plastic windows are hard enough to see through sometimes even without tint.
 
My rear windows are all tinted pretty dark, but nothing on the front. Very similar to my old Taco. I have a LED backup light if needed and have had no issues. I like the murdered out look and extra privacy of my cargo space. Would be a whole 'nother situation in a Troopy I suppose. It certainly helps here in the desert to keep the sun out.
 
Since we are officially in Colorado now and 1/2 of the battle is over in the move, I can breath a little bit. We are in a rental temporarily until we can find a house.

I forgot to post up my Christmas Present. Yes a pretty high tech drawing from Nebraska to Moab (although Colorado now) and a Soft Top.
Going to get that ordered soon.

IMG_0636.webp
 
FJBen said:
All-in is the smart move. I guess it depends on how bad the other issues are and how you feel about rebuilding re/sealing the tcase 2 times? Add to that list you might need d-shafts/u-joints and possibly find a pinion seal leaking a little :confused:

I "probably" should have resealed/rebuilt the H55f, but it shifts fine, my clutch is new, rear main is new. With the miles on my H55f, it's probably better to just replace with new, and thats just not in the cards right now, which is why I decided to just redo the t-case.
Click to expand...
I'm about to jump into this project... going all-in.

A few questions:
1. I noticed you pulled the entire tranny, transfer case, and cross member. Was that the easiest way to get it all out?
2. With it all pulled out as one assembly, is it still pretty easy to remove the transfer case from the tranny?
3. How high up did you have to lift the truck to be able to pull the whole assembly out from underneath?
 
Honger said:
I'm about to jump into this project... going all-in.

A few questions:
1. I noticed you pulled the entire tranny, transfer case, and cross member. Was that the easiest way to get it all out?
2. With it all pulled out as one assembly, is it still pretty easy to remove the transfer case from the tranny?
3. How high up did you have to lift the truck to be able to pull the whole assembly out from underneath?
Click to expand...

To me it depends on what you are wanting to do. If you are just wanting to rebuild the transfer case you can absolutely just pull/rebuild without dropping the transmission. There are a few "blind" bolts up top on the t-case, but they aren't hard at all and I would do it again this way so I didn't have to pull the whole setup.

Basically remove the skidplate, drop drivelines, fluid and start unbolting and taking off in pieces. @PabloCruise helped but 2 people aren't necessarily needed. It was nice to have an extra set of hands and eyes when lining everything up.

That said, it isn't "that" much harder to pull the whole setup. It took me 2 hours to get the transmission/tcase dropped the last time, but I've also been in there a few times over the last 2 years so I remember the tricks. A good transmission jack can make all the difference in the world.

It would be easier to work on the tcase completely out from under the vehicle, especially if you can get it all up to workbench height. It wasn't that bad at all working underneath it, but would definitely be easier on a workbench.

I only had to jackup the back rear tire about a foot or so off the ground and I was able to get the whole setup out right in front of the rear tire. Not sure if you are lifted or not?


The good thing about pulling it all is that it will give you a chance to look at the back of the engine, check the rear main, replace the clutch (might as well unless it's almost new) and then clean up the transmission.
 
cruiserdan said:
Them tires are, well, not even wide enuf. Iv'e seen pizzas with better rolling stock. :lol:
Click to expand...

255/85r16 Sometimes they look alright to me, others they look too small and too skinny. Trying to resist going to 35x10.50x17. It's going to take me selling my current tires.
 
FJBen said:
255/85r16 Sometimes they look alright to me, others they look too small and too skinny. Trying to resist going to 35x10.50x17. It's going to take me selling my current tires.
Click to expand...

I think the 255/85r16 tire wheel combo is perfect for the 70 series, saying that I've never had them on my truck. I had 35x12.5r15 mud terrains and switched to 35x10.5r17 kenda RT. The kenda's are so much more quiet compared to the mudders. I'm kinda stuck running 35's to maintain 70 mph at decent rpms because I have 4:1 reduction gears in the tcase. I think I would prefer 33" tires but these were a no brainer at the price and what I needed. Some times they seem too tall and too skinny, but mostly, I really like them. Posted elsewhere recently but I have them mounted on 17x7 4runner rims with 1" spacers (I think 1.25" would be better), but I think there may be a better rim option that doesn't require a spacer...


rim shot.webp


solstice 03.webp


solstice 04.webp
 
svsisu said:
I think the 255/85r16 tire wheel combo is perfect for the 70 series, saying that I've never had them on my truck. I had 35x12.5r15 mud terrains and switched to 35x10.5r17 kenda RT. The kenda's are so much more quiet compared to the mudders. I'm kinda stuck running 35's to maintain 70 mph at decent rpms because I have 4:1 reduction gears in the tcase. I think I would prefer 33" tires but these were a no brainer at the price and what I needed. Some times they seem too tall and too skinny, but mostly, I really like them. Posted elsewhere recently but I have them mounted on 17x7 4runner rims with 1" spacers (I think 1.25" would be better), but I think there may be a better rim option that doesn't require a spacer...


View attachment 2581613

View attachment 2581624

View attachment 2581625
Click to expand...


Nice! They look like a great size for sure. They probably will roll a little better than the full MT's I have on. I really like the Yokohama's, just wish they were more of a 34~35" size.

I found some US Steel wheels, rat rod you can custom size from summit with a 3.5" BS.
U.S. Wheel 68-8860 U.S. Wheel 68 Series Rat Rod Matte Black Wheels | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/USW-68-8860/reviews

This setup is on @J Mack sweet pig. he put some hubcaps on as well.
side-jpg.2558286
 
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