Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (2 Viewers)

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FJBen said:
Got the oil cooler parts from partsouq. 1 week is what it took.


View attachment 3784066

View attachment 3784067


Here’s my made up gasket. This felpro rubberized gasket paper for oil. Not pretty but it fits. Hopefully no issues. I have this coming from Canada….whenever the strike is over.

View attachment 3784068


Now I should be able to put it all back together and get it back and running.
Click to expand...

For future reference, you can use 15785-66010 oil cooler gaskets from a 1FZ/1Hx engine and get rid of the paper gasket and go to a metal gasket. 👍👍.
 
So I’m going to lose my mind…


Bought a new Bosch style primer, didn’t change anything.

Put the old one back on. Here’s what I’ve tried and zero sputter or attempt to spark.

Used air gun to pressurize tank, was able to build prime again with pump
Prime til pressure: no start
Crack injector line, diesel spits as cranking
Bleed fuel filter, able to prime up again
Cranked while pressurizing tank with air, nothing

Checked no vacuum lines closing the butterfly

Triggered glow screen (it’s 57 degrees today)

Jiggled fuel shut off valve no issue

It does appear to bleed off prime pressure after a minute but comes right back up…air bubble?

Long cranks show some smoke coming out, I assume it’s burning oil so I rarely crank for more than a few seconds.


I can’t think of what else it could be besides air trapped somehow.



The only things I can think left are crack all lines and crank for 10 -20 seconds to try and push any air bubble out?

Any ideas? I’m losing my mind…
 
what system does that engine have for shutoff? same as 3b?
 
low oil pressure shutoff?
 
should still fire even if you had some air in the fuel lines....
maybe hook up butterfly stuff then wire it open, re-prime back to front and try again
 
Last edited:
Not sure how it works with a 13B-T, but on my TDI it can take 20-30 seconds of straight cranking to get it to fire after having the fuel system open.
 
you have diesel in your tank?? just asking because I did that before.... no gas -- and it would not start. DOH!
 
AirheadNut said:
Not sure how it works with a 13B-T, but on my TDI it can take 20-30 seconds of straight cranking to get it to fire after having the fuel system open.
Click to expand...

I’ve pulled the fuel filter before, and even when I rebuilt the whole thing it primed up fairly quickly and stumbled on first start.
2fpower said:
you have diesel in your tank?? just asking because I did that before.... no gas -- and it would not start. DOH!
Click to expand...

Yep 3/4 tank 😂
 
FJBen said:
So I’m going to lose my mind…


Bought a new Bosch style primer, didn’t change anything.

Put the old one back on. Here’s what I’ve tried and zero sputter or attempt to spark.

Used air gun to pressurize tank, was able to build prime again with pump
Prime til pressure: no start
Crack injector line, diesel spits as cranking
Bleed fuel filter, able to prime up again
Cranked while pressurizing tank with air, nothing

Checked no vacuum lines closing the butterfly

Triggered glow screen (it’s 57 degrees today)

Jiggled fuel shut off valve no issue

It does appear to bleed off prime pressure after a minute but comes right back up…air bubble?

Long cranks show some smoke coming out, I assume it’s burning oil so I rarely crank for more than a few seconds.


I can’t think of what else it could be besides air trapped somehow.



The only things I can think left are crack all lines and crank for 10 -20 seconds to try and push any air bubble out?

Any ideas? I’m losing my mind…
Click to expand...
Gosh, this is bringing back traumatic memories for me with all my fuel issues I was dealing with on my HZ. Different issues by the sounds of it. The only thing that pops to mind now that you seem to be keeping fuel pressure, is it possible the fuel timing is off somehow? Does compression seem good all across the cylinders?
 
Rigster said:
Gosh, this is bringing back traumatic memories for me with all my fuel issues I was dealing with on my HZ. Different issues by the sounds of it. The only thing that pops to mind now that you seem to be keeping fuel pressure, is it possible the fuel timing is off somehow? Does compression seem good all across the cylinders?
Click to expand...
I don’t have a way to check compression, it’s a bit goofy of an adapter with the 13bt.
Timing shouldn’t have changed. Nothing moved besides taking the automatic timer off
The IP. However it can only go on one way so it should be fine.
 
So I got some starting fluid (with upper end lubricant).

Took off crossover pipe and quick sprayed. She stumbled and coughed. Sprayed again, same thing. Sprayed a little more same thing with fire/sputter run

So I’m pretty sure timing should be correct.
Compression should be fine.

Am I still correct in thinking it’s a fuel delivery issue?

Thinking about slapping the mighty vac on the filter bleed nipple and see if I there is any air hiding but running out of ideas on why I’m not getting any coughing/starting without a spray.
 
And just for comedic relief…

I had a car cover on it as it’s sat the last couple days outside. I hop on to move in with my tractor and see weird fur on the seat.

Look over in the passenger footwell and seems the barn cat straight uo
Multilated a rabbit and left it….






IMG_0151.jpeg
 
FJBen said:
So I got some starting fluid (with upper end lubricant).

Took off crossover pipe and quick sprayed. She stumbled and coughed. Sprayed again, same thing. Sprayed a little more same thing with fire/sputter run

So I’m pretty sure timing should be correct.
Compression should be fine.

Am I still correct in thinking it’s a fuel delivery issue?

Thinking about slapping the mighty vac on the filter bleed nipple and see if I there is any air hiding but running out of ideas on why I’m not getting any coughing/starting without a spray.
Click to expand...
I am definitely thinking it will be fuel delivery related. All you need is fuel injected at the right moment, compression and air.

I ended up finally replacing my fuel cutoff solenoid on my injection pump (AFTER replacing old fuel lines, etc to get rid of air getting into the system. Not saying that is what it is on yours.

What threw me off was that you were getting fuel out of the injection lines, but perhaps it is not enough? Perhaps you have a spot where air is still getting into the system somewhere. I hate to add to the pain, but perhaps some clear hose is needed to "see" if the fuel is contaminated with air, and start isolating systems until you find the offending culprit. I know how aggravating this is my friend, and only time and trial and error seem to figure these things out. You have a fine logical troubleshooting mind, and I know you will get to the bottom of it.
 
FJBen said:
So I got some starting fluid (with upper end lubricant).

Took off crossover pipe and quick sprayed. She stumbled and coughed. Sprayed again, same thing. Sprayed a little more same thing with fire/sputter run

So I’m pretty sure timing should be correct.
Compression should be fine.

Am I still correct in thinking it’s a fuel delivery issue?

Thinking about slapping the mighty vac on the filter bleed nipple and see if I there is any air hiding but running out of ideas on why I’m not getting any coughing/starting without a spray.
Click to expand...
The way I see it, compression is fine (and was never really in question I would say).

The starting fluid is going into the air intake, so is not in any way timed, it just gets sucked in on the intake stroke.

I feel like you have a timing issue, but would try cranking it wide open with as much of the fuel system byassed, drawing from a hose to a jar of clean diesel before undoing the engine to check.
 
Rigster said:
I am definitely thinking it will be fuel delivery related. All you need is fuel injected at the right moment, compression and air.

I ended up finally replacing my fuel cutoff solenoid on my injection pump (AFTER replacing old fuel lines, etc to get rid of air getting into the system. Not saying that is what it is on yours.

What threw me off was that you were getting fuel out of the injection lines, but perhaps it is not enough? Perhaps you have a spot where air is still getting into the system somewhere. I hate to add to the pain, but perhaps some clear hose is needed to "see" if the fuel is contaminated with air, and start isolating systems until you find the offending culprit. I know how aggravating this is my friend, and only time and trial and error seem to figure these things out. You have a fine logical troubleshooting mind, and I know you will get to the bottom of it.
Click to expand...
There is no fuel shutoff solenoid on an inline injection pump.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
The way I see it, compression is fine (and was never really in question I would say).

The starting fluid is going into the air intake, so is not in any way timed, it just gets sucked in on the intake stroke.

I feel like you have a timing issue, but would try cranking it wide open with as much of the fuel system byassed, drawing from a hose to a jar of clean diesel before undoing the engine to check.
Click to expand...

I’m thinking I may have bumped the timing trying to install the automatic timing gear. 😕. It would make sense with the no start.

I was pretty careful, but you have to “mesh” it with the gear on install.

I’m guessing spill timing it tomorrow is the only way to verify.

That’s the only thing I can think of now as it seems to have fuel everywhere. Now to figure how to get it back in my shop which is up a hill
 
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