Winch!
Build 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”
- Thread starter FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #2,422
- Thread starter
- #2,423
Good news, good news, bad news…
Good news: no dead hasenpfeffer
in my cruiser
Good news: pretty positive I’ve solved it!
I spill timed it and…
The red mark is the timing pin, the yellow is where the marks are on crank pulley. This is the point the fuel spilled out.
bad news: I must have bumped timing somehow putting the gear back on. Ironing else moved so it must have been bumped while putting the automatic timer back on.
Have to tear the timing cover off and spin spin up to 270 times to get the gears to line up and put it back together.
Huge mistake not just lining up the gears the first time. Assumption was since nothing moved (I believed) that I was good. Not so much….
This would really explain why it won’t start.
Good news: no dead hasenpfeffer
in my cruiser Good news: pretty positive I’ve solved it!
I spill timed it and…
The red mark is the timing pin, the yellow is where the marks are on crank pulley. This is the point the fuel spilled out.
bad news: I must have bumped timing somehow putting the gear back on. Ironing else moved so it must have been bumped while putting the automatic timer back on.
Have to tear the timing cover off and spin spin up to 270 times to get the gears to line up and put it back together.
Huge mistake not just lining up the gears the first time. Assumption was since nothing moved (I believed) that I was good. Not so much….
This would really explain why it won’t start.
- Thread starter
- #2,425
Am I correct in thinking I’m good to go?
I remember something about checking pushrods to make sure, I think 1 should be loose….4 not.
My valves/pushrods
1: loose
2: loose
3: loose
4: tight
5: tight
6: loose
7:loose
8: tight
According to manual:
So possible my number 7 intake is a little loose
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Looks correct to me. Checking pushrods is a good idea, but looking at the crank gear, it seems you're a little before TDC which might explain why #7 pushrod is loose. You could turn the engine over a full revolution to check. As the engine has no timing chain/belt tensioners, I don't see any reason why you can't turn it back a full revolution to have your timing marks aligned for peace of mind.
Am I correct in thinking I’m good to go?
I remember something about checking pushrods to make sure, I think 1 should be loose….4 not.
My valves/pushrods
1: loose
2: loose
3: loose
4: tight
5: tight
6: loose
7:loose
8: tight
According to manual:
So possible my number 7 intake is a little loose
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- Sep 4, 2020
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- Brunei Darussalam
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- eurasiaoverland.com
The numbers don't align on every revolution, so would almost certainly be misaligned.
- Thread starter
- #2,430
Correct. I had a slight brain fart. I forgot I put the vehicle in gear and brakes to start tightening the crank bolt. So it kept wanting to roll back a little hence the 1 slightly off.
After I realized that they all lined up straight on.
In that manual section it says set at TDC that you can adjust 1,2,3 and 6 valves. 360 degrees more and it’s 4,5,7, 8 can be adjusted and that’s what worked.
- Thread starter
- #2,431
Yeah, it only aligns every 270 rotations so about 1/2 as many times as I turn around looking for a 12mm socket.
- Thread starter
- #2,432
I will say I can easily understand how you can bump the timing. The automatic timer as we know is spring loaded and advances. It popped right on before wrongly assumed I was good to go.
Well when you are leaning over an engine bay trying to align splines it’s pretty easy to get off.
I pulled the middle idle gear off, rotated cam and crank to fairly close spots then put the idle gear on to line it up.
Then I knew exactly where the automatic timer had to sit.
Lessons learned.
Well when you are leaning over an engine bay trying to align splines it’s pretty easy to get off.
I pulled the middle idle gear off, rotated cam and crank to fairly close spots then put the idle gear on to line it up.
Then I knew exactly where the automatic timer had to sit.
Lessons learned.
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Good work - looks like the front timing cover gasket came off easily too, so should be reuseable. Waiting for that engine to burst into life on the first crank now. I imagine it'll make quite some smoke as the exhaust heats up if all the injected diesel on your previous cranking just got blown out into the downpipe.
- Thread starter
- #2,434
Yep hoping that will solve it. Going to try it tomorrow morning. Will spill time it again then get it to start before I pull out of the shop!
Then fix the coolant leak and it should be golden.
- Thread starter
- #2,435
Success. Sputtered and fired within a few seconds and started about 7-8 seconds.
As @Eurasiaoverland eluded to…stinky smoke! I only ran for a few seconds as I was in the shop and didn’t have any belts or fan/etc on as I wanted to make sure it was all good.
Making the gasket.
As @Eurasiaoverland eluded to…stinky smoke! I only ran for a few seconds as I was in the shop and didn’t have any belts or fan/etc on as I wanted to make sure it was all good.
Making the gasket.
- Thread starter
- #2,436
Aaaaaand that gasket didn’t work.
So I might get another type of gasket material and put RTV on both sides.
Which RTV to use? I don’t think FIPG is correct for coolant.
So I might get another type of gasket material and put RTV on both sides.
Which RTV to use? I don’t think FIPG is correct for coolant.
- Thread starter
- #2,438
I’ve used that before on other things, I wasn’t sure if that’s coolant safe.
I’ll have to get different gasket material as that stuff just straight soaked it up even though it said it was for coolant.
Toyota black FIPG?