1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications
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crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #182
there ae the 2 at the front of the block, 90 degrees to the pump
one at the top of the mount on the side
a support spigot 1/3 way down the side
the last bolt is at the bottom of the side
so, 4 bolts and one spigot support the bracket to the block and 2 bolts horizontal into the york and 2 vertical into the bottom of the york.
the alternator is supported with 3 into the side of the block and one into the front
cheers
one at the top of the mount on the side
a support spigot 1/3 way down the side
the last bolt is at the bottom of the side
so, 4 bolts and one spigot support the bracket to the block and 2 bolts horizontal into the york and 2 vertical into the bottom of the york.
the alternator is supported with 3 into the side of the block and one into the front
cheers
I asked because when my BJ landed from Aussie my A/C compressor was attached in the same spot as your york, with the same "2 bolts from the front" arrangement and a further 3 bolts from the side
which you would think would spread the load nicely however when I removed it during the strip-down for the resto/refurb I found that the top bolt from the front had broken out of the block as you can see in this pic
I am not sure if it was a weakness in the block or rather the PO that overstressed the bolt via the belt tensioner which was not a nice "piggyback" setup like yours but you know something to be aware of ... 2c
which you would think would spread the load nicely however when I removed it during the strip-down for the resto/refurb I found that the top bolt from the front had broken out of the block as you can see in this pic
I am not sure if it was a weakness in the block or rather the PO that overstressed the bolt via the belt tensioner which was not a nice "piggyback" setup like yours but you know something to be aware of ... 2c
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #184
that is good information to have ...
could the issue been with the bolt itself? a reused bolt that was over torqued at some point in it's life?
with 5 bolts on your mount i find it difficult to accept that one bolt would break off and the others are still fixed. if the other 4 were loose and all the stress was on that one bolt then maybe that could be the case
or, if the bold wasn't broken could the installer have over tightened the bolt and stripped out the threads?
or, could someone have rethreaded the hole and stripped the hole?
and
add to that the gussets that are on your mount would surely resist any twisting in one particular location ... no?
i am no engineer but that is my reasoning behind your broken bolt.
on mine, the bolt holes were all rethreaded (read cleaned)
the mount has the 90 degree bend at the front
the 90 degree reinforcement bend at the bottom edge to the bottom section
the extension across the face for the upper York bar mount.
i can not picture an issue with the upper bolt ... but ... i will take another look and see what can be done to strengthen that particular location.
could the issue been with the bolt itself? a reused bolt that was over torqued at some point in it's life?
with 5 bolts on your mount i find it difficult to accept that one bolt would break off and the others are still fixed. if the other 4 were loose and all the stress was on that one bolt then maybe that could be the case
or, if the bold wasn't broken could the installer have over tightened the bolt and stripped out the threads?
or, could someone have rethreaded the hole and stripped the hole?
and
add to that the gussets that are on your mount would surely resist any twisting in one particular location ... no?
i am no engineer but that is my reasoning behind your broken bolt.
on mine, the bolt holes were all rethreaded (read cleaned)
the mount has the 90 degree bend at the front
the 90 degree reinforcement bend at the bottom edge to the bottom section
the extension across the face for the upper York bar mount.
i can not picture an issue with the upper bolt ... but ... i will take another look and see what can be done to strengthen that particular location.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #189
the paint is just flaking off the galvanized frame and the truck has not even seen the road in the 4 years since it was "completed" by the previous shop(s).
the spring packs are being disassembled to be PC as well. you can see the rust, this kit was installed in 98/99, driven for a year or so then parked since.
the spring packs are being disassembled to be PC as well. you can see the rust, this kit was installed in 98/99, driven for a year or so then parked since.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #190
bare frame, now we can take a closer look ...
the frame is straight so the galvanizing didn't do any damage
but
the front 16" is completely rusted out so will need replacing. sourcing a 70 short wheel base frame lead no where.
i have a good front section so the decision was to replace the front and patch the 2 soft areas near the rear...
the frame is straight so the galvanizing didn't do any damage
but
the front 16" is completely rusted out so will need replacing. sourcing a 70 short wheel base frame lead no where.
i have a good front section so the decision was to replace the front and patch the 2 soft areas near the rear...
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #195
cleaning up the bodywork, the bodyman going over his work in the sunlight ...
i am impressed with his desire to do an excellent job ...
sadly, this body isn't worth too much effort.
let this be a warning to those shopping in Canada, espec eastern provinces (Quebec is notorious) to take a magnet and dirty clothes so you can get close and personal with your possible purchase.
i am impressed with his desire to do an excellent job ...
sadly, this body isn't worth too much effort.
let this be a warning to those shopping in Canada, espec eastern provinces (Quebec is notorious) to take a magnet and dirty clothes so you can get close and personal with your possible purchase.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #196
painted with the PC roof rack for contrast comparison...
the weldflex is covering a gap that goes from the front to the back of the wheel well, the original body person never attached the inner well to the outer panel ... at all. most of the well was back 3/8" with some gaps large enough to stick 2 fingers through!!
this weldflex is wicked stuff, Mike uses it to adhere parts to a boat and says it is as strong as welding. i trust him and to be honest the tub isn't worth welding a patch in. <shaking head> if the owner would have had the truck finished by the previous shop, he would have had road salt, exhaust fumes, mud etc POURING in through the wheel well. i can't believe the previous shop actually painted the outside of the truck and sprayed rubber liner on the inside with that gap still there. it would have been so easy to do correctly when the outter fender wasn't yet attached.
then it was off to the rust proofers, i wanted to get the body coated very well, into every nook and cranny and it is much more accessible before reinstalling everything ...
sadly, this also means working inside will be icky.
the weldflex is covering a gap that goes from the front to the back of the wheel well, the original body person never attached the inner well to the outer panel ... at all. most of the well was back 3/8" with some gaps large enough to stick 2 fingers through!!
this weldflex is wicked stuff, Mike uses it to adhere parts to a boat and says it is as strong as welding. i trust him and to be honest the tub isn't worth welding a patch in. <shaking head> if the owner would have had the truck finished by the previous shop, he would have had road salt, exhaust fumes, mud etc POURING in through the wheel well. i can't believe the previous shop actually painted the outside of the truck and sprayed rubber liner on the inside with that gap still there. it would have been so easy to do correctly when the outter fender wasn't yet attached.
then it was off to the rust proofers, i wanted to get the body coated very well, into every nook and cranny and it is much more accessible before reinstalling everything ...
sadly, this also means working inside will be icky.
Last edited:
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #197
John got into every crevice of the body, upper windshield frame, lower frame, roof inner gutter, A, B and C pillars ... everywhere. John has been doing Krown for 18 years, he knows what he is doing and where to drill...
it was a warm day when we got it done and even before we pulled out the liquid wax was seeping out of the upper windshield joining lip. if nothing else, this will keep the body lasting for a few more years.
in the meantime we will be shopping for a rust free 70 tub to swap this one with.
it was a warm day when we got it done and even before we pulled out the liquid wax was seeping out of the upper windshield joining lip. if nothing else, this will keep the body lasting for a few more years.
in the meantime we will be shopping for a rust free 70 tub to swap this one with.
