1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications

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Does that flashlight recharge from the Cruiser's electrical system?
 
next up is locating the snow blower controls that will be easily accessable but look ... tidy.
so off comes the tilt meter gauge package, to be relocated to the bush buggy later in the year.
the empty cover ...
plastic template
aluminum panel test fitted

it will be PC black to match the gauge package ...
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the recovered seats test fitting
clearence for the access panels in the rear side, check.
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since we were able to relocate most of the switches to the dash it saved the cost of making a replacement console from scratch.

fitting the 200 amp welding alternator, york compressor, turbo, intercooler, wabasto, vacumm pump, dual batteries and all the associated wiring into the engine bay.
this is what i have to work with ...
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first up is the welding alternator ...
the bottom alternator is a factory PZ/HZ unit.
next is the 3B alternator
up from that is the 3B alternator and vacumm pump
the top is what we need to fit under the hood... that thing is HUGE ...
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the York will be mounted below the replacement alternator.
this is an amazing kit to work with, the quality of parts, the machining ... :eek:
even the actual cables are top notch workmanship.
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we need a pulley for the York, a double for the alternator, and one for the PS.
the main ballancer will run the York.
the alternator will be next and as you can see the distance between the balancer and the PS is too small for the massive cast alternator drive.

:hhmm:
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the balancer
with the alternator pulley
with the alter and the PS pulley ...

so an adapter is being made that will bolt onto the balancer.
the alternator pulley is then key'd into the shaft of the adapter.
the replacement PS drive pulley is being machined out to fit a 1" shaft with keyway and a retaining bolt will be machined in.

there is minimum clearence between each but this will allow for true rotation with no vibration.

the PS pump, tensioner, fan assembley will be moved out accordingly.

not an easy or cheap install but once it is completed then it should last the life of the truck.
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the York will be mounted below the replacement alternator.
this is an amazing kit to work with, the quality of parts, the machining ... :eek:
even the actual cables are top notch workmanship.

Looks nice. Does that kit have the idle up switch on the rod holder?

If they were really top notch they'd have used yellow connectors which would be correct for 12V. To be technically correct, Grey indicates 36V but no one (including me) seems to obey that convention.
 
Bruce, thanks for following along.
yes, it has the auto idle-up switch. on the table of parts it is the contraption in the upper left corner of the pic.
i am thinking if i locate it where an automatic cable would be located that might work the best and look ... clean.
no?
 
another shot of the useless factory console ... seriously, they are great for storing change but if you have the rear heater system that is all they are good for.
too low for an armrest.
too small to be of any real use.

I've felt the same way about the 70 series console. I keep mittens warm by the rear heater in the winter, but otherwise, this is wasted space. I would rather have a cooler there for drinks ala the 80 series consoles with the built in coolers, or something genuinely useful like an ACTUAL storage console.

Waiting to see what you do so I can steal your ideas.
 
so the fuel water seperator is too close to the turbo, another piece that will need to be relocated ...
<sigh>
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trying different configurations to see which way i want to run the intercooler ...
after talking with the specialist he recommended a 12 X 11, i want to stick with 2" thick ... this will be for all 3 of the owners trucks eventually.
the turbo is the same as G is selling so i have no concerns that it will perform fine.
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ended up deciding to go with the vertical in and vertical out ...
this one is 3.5" thick but the 2" will allow for an electric fan if needed and plenty of room for air flow...
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so the shop is going to make a custom unit for me ...
the turbo outlet is 3/4" back from the throttle body...
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recieved a call from the machine shop that the adapter was done so a drive was made ... i was excited to see how it turned out.

11.5 hrs of machining and testing and remove and machine and test fit and remove and again ... the guy is meticulous in his work and good thing. it needs to be balanced to 4000 rpm potential so if there is any woble on the lathe then it would be multiplied by 8 on the road ...

what a work of art it turned out to be ...
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test fitting the assembly for mounting on the lathe ...
recess for the factory crank bolt
temporary attaching the spigot (SS has no strength so grade 8 M8 X 1.00 pitch are on order.
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