1983 fj60 build up (1 Viewer)

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:eek: Holy crap you work fast!! Can't wait to see what it looks like as a finished product. :cheers:
 
:eek: Holy **** you work fast!! Can't wait to see what it looks like as a finished product. :cheers:

Thanks....

me neither. Still lots to do though. I kind of like look of the bedliner quaters, rockers and fenders. so i think i might have a go at that. should add an interesting look. still undecided though one day i like it the next not so sure.
 
hey, forgot to add i called aussie locker and asked about gear oil for their product. they recommend 85/140 conventional oil for best performance and dampening of the click. just fyi for those who may be or already have installed.
 
Never thought to call them.............................

I put in 75W140 synthetic and it's pretty clicky-clacky-clunky





:beer:
 
Never thought to call them.............................

I put in 75W140 synthetic and it's pretty clicky-clacky-clunky

they said the synthetic for some reason would not dampen the noise and in their opinion the conventional worked better overall. (plus its cheaper a big plus) i just drove mine around for the first time and the clicking is not too bad. man it hooks up off road when you step on it. LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D:D
 
put in sea foam, tested the locker, after seafoam all done smokin, changed the plugs back to ngk, new cap and rotor. i used the vacum hose to the speed control servo which come straight off manifold vacum. add a pic of the obnoxious white smoke for kicks
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brake drums finaly

Got my brake drums finaly, put on, set the parking brake stops good!!!!! most important. was doing a check of everything to get the truck inspected and now my horn doesnt work. SOAB..... fuse is fine horns work with power. im guessing the contacts need to be cleaned on the stearing wheel. will mess with that tomorrow since it decided to rain.
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well rain again stops todays work. simple things first. wiper blades. trico teflon 18" part number 15-180. fit, mold to windshiled, good cleaning of windshield. My horn was a big PITA. poped the front cover, pulled the wheel (when it breaks loose it will surprise you). took some 220 grit paper to the contact ring and contact pin. thought i was cool. the horn works off a ground so i grounded the pin and presto the horn worked. yeah put the wheel back on conected the horn button and pressed down the button and nothing. some curse words..... and then i discovered the contact pin was not contacting the ring on the back of the steering wheel. Puulled the wheel again. used a small washer and a nut for each tab probably a 1/4 spacer. used 1/2 inch screws lying around the shop, put it back together and now presto the horn works. monday looks like inspection time.
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now to the timing. i planned on adjusting the valves today, but spent with the help of fellow mudders determining whether the timing marks i have properly indicate the TDC line and & 7deg. BTDC

it appears that the concensus favors what the pic shows and you can check the seperate thread for more opinions. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/210721-where-find-timing-marks-2f-help.html

Big thanks to all who chimed in.
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bulbs

not alot of time today so did a few little projects. changed all the bulbs on the back half. 1156's for the turn signals, 1157's for the brake lights, 97's for the lp lights which also had a broken wire at the tailgate joint that needed repair, and the kicker the PO put a halogen adapter in the brake light circuit which normally takes 1156's. figured i would give them a try becasue i did not know what the socket was like. still can't get them to work. traced the wires no luck finding the back up light switch. took a pic of my son for kicks as he is my inspiration.
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shift lock

Also got my gear shift lock from jack at http://www.simjack.com/. inspired from the build https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/200578-rotw-kevinmrowland.html. any way took the straight bracket and bent a complex bend 30 deg. to mount to the trans hump a 60 deg bend to extend the bar leaving a 90 degree plumb section for the shift lock. put five bolts in the trans hump including the 2 security snap off nuts welded a 60 degree wedge to stabilize the upright and put a sixth bolt through the wedge. there is no flex at all. shift lock holds trans in reverse. not in the way of shifting or legs while driving. my answer to automotive theft.
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Ha, I used to have that exact CD changer in my Capri, and my Grand Prix. Your son looks like he's enjoying the project, or is it just the Mountain Dew and Cheetos?
 
Ha, I used to have that exact CD changer in my Capri, and my Grand Prix. Your son looks like he's enjoying the project, or is it just the Mountain Dew and Cheetos?

all of it!!!!!!!!!!!!! he loves helping me, loves cheetos and loves mt. dew because its dads favorite drink. his big help today was handing me cheetos he got two and i got one:D
 
Nice Lock! I will definitely have to follow suit some day! Keep it up.

thanks. i was impressed with its simplicity and from the tests that were done on the forks you cant cut it with a hack or recipricating saw. very hard metal!!!!!!!
 
back up light problem solved

had issues with back up lights. started new thread got some help from a few friends and a solution found. love it.
heres the link to the full thread fyi https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/211041-reverse-light-problems-need-advice.html

solution found
man i love this site. all it takes is an issue and some help from friends and a solution is found. now to the point...

A big thanks to gsdog2 pegged it outright. the pins had been pushed back, dumb me did not look at it very well sunday. frustration can make you blind.

the kicker is the PO apparently had pulled the connector off before but re-installed it upside down so the prongs were entering the connector from the wrong end thus the connection never came close to happening :doh: :bang:

first pick of the connector backwards
second pic of the prongs in the connector backwards
third pics of proper end of the connector with the female reciever

oh props to LCOwner correct about the plugs for the trans shift and the transfer 4x4 being the same so a switch in a pinch would work

Thanks for all the help....another problem solved
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got my sticker

finaly the truck is inspected:grinpimp:
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Congratulations, it's all gravy from here!

thanks..yeah just the little things that nickle and dime you to death:D
 
liftgate shocks

my liftgate shocks came today from Ried Supply

www.reidsupply.com

ordered two gas springs 90# lift 17" long part number GAS-124 and 4 ball and socket ends part number GAS-30

they screw right into the existing threads took 15 minutes to change
cost $47.00 delivered

love the things that actually bolt right up!!!!!
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