- Thread starter
- #61
Thanks this one has actually been one of my better attempts. simple, functional and strong.
i am will probably add the spindle and begin the tire carrier this week end depending on weather.
1983 fj60 build up (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cfdlighthouse
- Start date
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Thanks this one has actually been one of my better attempts. simple, functional and strong.
i am will probably add the spindle and begin the tire carrier this week end depending on weather.
- Thread starter
- #62
Dude....You need to get a life !!
Just kidding , Great work !! ;p
I haven't been keeping up with the thread.......I didn't expect to see it progress so quickly!
If you ever need someone to hover over you , watch you work , hand you tools , and possibly fetch beers , let me know. Seriously......I might have a 60 in my future. [Wife wants one , and won't have to twist my arm too hard
where in charlottesville are you? I live in Farmville....
I'll PM , I don't want summa these nuts knockin' on my door. 
- Thread starter
- #64
- Thread starter
- #65
rear locker
The UPS man braught a present today. My rear aussie locker came. a big thanks to the guys at www.offroadlockers.com they were great to deal with and it arrived in three days via ups ground standard shipping. I love when companies sell a great product and followup with customer service and shipping.
took some pics. the weather is kinda iffy here this weekend so we will see what i can do. the rear seals are the last thing i need to fix so i can get my inspection sticker, so time is getting closer before we are rollin.
The UPS man braught a present today. My rear aussie locker came. a big thanks to the guys at www.offroadlockers.com they were great to deal with and it arrived in three days via ups ground standard shipping. I love when companies sell a great product and followup with customer service and shipping.
took some pics. the weather is kinda iffy here this weekend so we will see what i can do. the rear seals are the last thing i need to fix so i can get my inspection sticker, so time is getting closer before we are rollin.
I like how I think i'm doing well with getting my lift on over a week with working... and then I read this...
Damn, man - do you even stop to let the wrenches cool down?
Damn, man - do you even stop to let the wrenches cool down?
- Thread starter
- #67
I like how I think i'm doing well with getting my lift on over a week with working... and then I read this...
Damn, man - do you even stop to let the wrenches cool down?
just enough to catch my breath!!!!!
just like to see progress and then i get lost in what i am doing and before you know it all kind of stuff has been accomplished. Although i can get ahead of myself too and that usually means double the work. Its easy to loose yourself when you enjoy what you are doing. I have always liked working on stuff, but there is something about this project that has motivated me. Kind of cool though.
The cruiser virus is starting to take effect..........
What 'til you buy your first FJ40........That " Why J ? " will be history.
- Thread starter
- #69
The cruiser virus is starting to take effect..........
What 'til you buy your first FJ40........That " Why J ? " will be history.
I was going to buy the fj40 first, but found the 60 and decided to go that way. My wife, who likes the 40, wants me to infact buy one of those next for her and boot the yj. so the virus has not only infected me, but my unsuspecting wife has fallen victim to FJ envy.
PM me if your interested in a pretty good deal on a 40 here locally. You might need to jump on it it fairly soon though. $1000 OBO
- Thread starter
- #71
desmog pics
well i forgot to post the fruits of my desmog labor. i am only half way done with part removal, but the system is completely disconnected and engine idles smooth as silk. i removed air rail which was already disconnected kept the rail to block stems and capped the tops with 1/4 npt brass. pulled the posts resealed the block threads and sealed the caps. removed all the air valves that have more abrevations than i care to list. wow what a clean wheel well. took smog pump off to inspect for resale and contemplated the idler kit, which i will still probably do, and found the veins and rear bearing to be bad, so i gutted it replaced the rear bearing and put it back together. im sure this has been said but when devaining dont forget to put the rear bearing and retainer back in or you will destroy your new 12 lb idler. that drum needs both bearings to work. i will mess with the egr when i redo the exhaust headers.( not a necessity now). already had the webber carb from PO so that parts already works.
well i forgot to post the fruits of my desmog labor. i am only half way done with part removal, but the system is completely disconnected and engine idles smooth as silk. i removed air rail which was already disconnected kept the rail to block stems and capped the tops with 1/4 npt brass. pulled the posts resealed the block threads and sealed the caps. removed all the air valves that have more abrevations than i care to list. wow what a clean wheel well. took smog pump off to inspect for resale and contemplated the idler kit, which i will still probably do, and found the veins and rear bearing to be bad, so i gutted it replaced the rear bearing and put it back together. im sure this has been said but when devaining dont forget to put the rear bearing and retainer back in or you will destroy your new 12 lb idler. that drum needs both bearings to work. i will mess with the egr when i redo the exhaust headers.( not a necessity now). already had the webber carb from PO so that parts already works.
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- Thread starter
- #72
one last pic
- Thread starter
- #73
tire carrier
well with the rain decided to get the pieces for the tire carrier mapped out.
1 inch steel rod as the spindle through and through the bumper on passenger side
1 inch pipe as the tire carrier sleeve drilled for grease fittings
left over 2x4 tube for the base bar
left over 2x3 tube for the upright
left over 2x2 tube for the 2 lateral supports.
Got to love a drill press. used a 1 3/8 hole saw to drill hole in top and bottom of 2x4 tube for a straight through weld on top and bottom of the 1 inch pipe sleeve.
will arrange the pieces tomorrow and weld her up steps of course along the way.
well with the rain decided to get the pieces for the tire carrier mapped out.
1 inch steel rod as the spindle through and through the bumper on passenger side
1 inch pipe as the tire carrier sleeve drilled for grease fittings
left over 2x4 tube for the base bar
left over 2x3 tube for the upright
left over 2x2 tube for the 2 lateral supports.
Got to love a drill press. used a 1 3/8 hole saw to drill hole in top and bottom of 2x4 tube for a straight through weld on top and bottom of the 1 inch pipe sleeve.
will arrange the pieces tomorrow and weld her up steps of course along the way.
- Thread starter
- #74
got the tire carrier laid out base tub, upright, lateral support, diamonds for joint strength on both sides. drilled the bumper, welded in the 1 inch rod as spindle, welded the sleve in the base tube and put it all together.
- Thread starter
- #75
mounted the sliders today and final positiong for the rear bumper. will finish that tomorrow and the rest of the day will be rear wheel bearings and aussie locker.
- Thread starter
- #76
well were now locked and loaded. took everything down tires off, brake drums, rear diff cover. then c-clips removed, pinion shaft, thrust block, upper and lower spiders, side gears and thrust washers. found a little brake clean broke the grease seal between the side gears and the thrust washer. organized the parts for the ones i need to reuse. pulled the axle seals, could not find my slide hammer so i made my own bearing puller. took 10 minutes and worked like a champ. pulled the rear axle bearings and reassembly began
- Thread starter
- #77
this is what started my rear axle work. when po installed seal he tore the rubber. put the new bearings in, new seals, re-installed the axle shafts, and put the side gears and thrust washers back in the carrier. put in spacers and pinion shaft to check clearances. mine was .014 which was within spec of .006 and .020.
- Thread starter
- #78
then the fun began. drivers side c-clip, spacer, and inner locking plate. then passenger side inner and spacer together. the c-clip goes in after that in between the inner gear and the outer gear. i sat for a while tring to figure out how to get the c-clip in and then took a long skiiny screw driver and used as a ramp to roll the c-clip into place. worked like a charm. mated the gears set the spacer re-installed the pinion and lock pin pressed in the unit pins and springs. the cruiser gods were with me though. the first spring i tried to place i used a set of pliers to place it and while it was under compression it shot out. i heard no sounds that it bounced so i figured it went into the grass. i took a magnet wand and looked for like twenty minutes. thinking it was hopeless, went to install the other three springs and pins dropped the thrid spring into the diff housing where some gear oil was still left went fishing for the spring and sure enough there was my other spring. a sigh and props to the sky and the install was complete. final case tolerance was .168 also within spec
Man you get after it! Keep up the good work!
I hear you on the lost parts... First thing I always do too is listen for the ping!
I hear you on the lost parts... First thing I always do too is listen for the ping!
- Thread starter
- #80
