- Thread starter
- #121
Any chance it'll be on the road by the weekend?
what you got in mind. sorry about the call i got super busy with a problem at work! how was nags head? any pics???
1983 fj60 build up (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cfdlighthouse
- Start date
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what you got in mind. sorry about the call i got super busy with a problem at work! how was nags head? any pics???
The Outer Banks was awesome! The weather wasn't too great, but it was still fun. I couldn't take my FJ40 this trip, because my pregnant wife and daughter came along. And, yeah, we got lots of great pics!
I don't want to hi-jack your build thread. I'll PM you in a couple minutes.
I don't want to hi-jack your build thread. I'll PM you in a couple minutes.
Here's a sample.
- Thread starter
- #124
sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! man im sorry i missed it
was that foto taken at Carolina Beach?
- Thread starter
- #126
They were down in the outerbanks near the cape hatteras lighthouse between rodanthe and buxton
- Thread starter
- #127
i hate auto parts stores. they ordered the wrong fuel pump. so we are waiting again. should be here in the am. finished welding up the rear quarters and reinforced the end caps. had to do wheel well surgery on the drivers side and was pleased with my recreation of the fender curve and inner lip. i am not creating a show truck so my welds are not ground smooth and everything contoured. i am not planning on selling this so i am going for strength and function, plus i hate completely grinding welds its a total PITA especially when you have to do it on your back.
- Thread starter
- #128
here are more pics of my sorry attempts at the sheet metal work. hate it, hate it, hate it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
- Thread starter
- #129
fuel pump
finnaly a correctly ordered fuel pump. got the inline filter too.
easy swap three lines two bolts a few clamps.
carb woes still trying to be settled
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/213745-carb-sick-upper-rpms.html
hopefully the new fuel pump will help!!! good replacement anyway!!!
finnaly a correctly ordered fuel pump. got the inline filter too.
easy swap three lines two bolts a few clamps.
carb woes still trying to be settled
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/213745-carb-sick-upper-rpms.html
hopefully the new fuel pump will help!!! good replacement anyway!!!
...attempts at the sheet metal work. hate it, hate it, hate it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I feel your pain brother, I'm working on my quarter cuts and sheet metal is no fun. Keep moving forward.
- Thread starter
- #131
thanks man, all you can do is plug along
- Thread starter
- #132
front bumper time
got my steel today for the front bumper. usinf 5 inch channel, 1/2 plat for the brackets, 2inch square tub for a crossmember, 1/4 plate for the top will have a winch mount and deer guard for the front using same d rings on front as i did on the back. got started tonight hope to finish by friday evening. ran out of gas tonight so got to get some tomorrow.
got my steel today for the front bumper. usinf 5 inch channel, 1/2 plat for the brackets, 2inch square tub for a crossmember, 1/4 plate for the top will have a winch mount and deer guard for the front using same d rings on front as i did on the back. got started tonight hope to finish by friday evening. ran out of gas tonight so got to get some tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #133
front bumper
more pics of progress
more pics of progress
- Thread starter
- #134
front bumper day two
well got more welding in. got the uprights cut and the side supports cut. welded everything up. pics of the fabed peieces and the inside support areas
well got more welding in. got the uprights cut and the side supports cut. welded everything up. pics of the fabed peieces and the inside support areas
- Thread starter
- #135
fb part 2
here are some pics of the main tube in, the secondary tube in and the drum case for the warn 12000 lb winch i removed from a wrecked truck. the guy said a gear was broken in side the planetary. turned out the motor was gone and had to exchange a solinoid and for $75 i got a 12000 lb winch that works. i took it all back apart to clean and regrease and was using the drum case for spec locations. 12000 is a bit overkill but for $75 i am not complaining. i have a yellow top optima to go in the engine bay and am replacing all the battery cables with 1/0 welding cable to come later.
here are some pics of the main tube in, the secondary tube in and the drum case for the warn 12000 lb winch i removed from a wrecked truck. the guy said a gear was broken in side the planetary. turned out the motor was gone and had to exchange a solinoid and for $75 i got a 12000 lb winch that works. i took it all back apart to clean and regrease and was using the drum case for spec locations. 12000 is a bit overkill but for $75 i am not complaining. i have a yellow top optima to go in the engine bay and am replacing all the battery cables with 1/0 welding cable to come later.
- Thread starter
- #136
more front bumper work
Added 45 degree side bars from the main guard area wleder her up and primed. Laid a coat of black on the sliders and the rear bumper. Also got my replacement window regulator for the passenger side. the gears were stripped and I have to give a big thanks to mud member Leaping Deer for helping out with the regulator. for those of you whjo have not replaced one it takes about 10 minutes. remove the 5, 10mm bolts that hold the regulator to the door and the 2 that hold the window to the bottom plate slide the window out, slide the regulator through the bottom opening of the panel, put the new one in slide the window back in and bolt it up.
Added 45 degree side bars from the main guard area wleder her up and primed. Laid a coat of black on the sliders and the rear bumper. Also got my replacement window regulator for the passenger side. the gears were stripped and I have to give a big thanks to mud member Leaping Deer for helping out with the regulator. for those of you whjo have not replaced one it takes about 10 minutes. remove the 5, 10mm bolts that hold the regulator to the door and the 2 that hold the window to the bottom plate slide the window out, slide the regulator through the bottom opening of the panel, put the new one in slide the window back in and bolt it up.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #137
more pics
pic of primed bumper on truck
pic of primed bumper on truck
- Thread starter
- #138
valve adjustment
got some work in last night and painted the front bumper. i will mount tomorrow and put my winch back together and hopefuuly get it up and running.
i also attempted to tackle the valve adjust and cover gasket. first when i took the cover off i was pleasently surprised to find and heat and oil staned valve train with no crud, even the inside of the valve cover was clean i was amazed usually on an engien this old with 190K slugde would be everywhere. clean clean clean. good for me. i read alot of the psots here on valve adjustments some say do it cold some say do it hot both engine off, some say up to temp and idleing at 650. the FSM says up to temp and running at idle. so idle both the at temp off adjustments and at temp at idle to try and be as accurate as possible.
got some work in last night and painted the front bumper. i will mount tomorrow and put my winch back together and hopefuuly get it up and running.
i also attempted to tackle the valve adjust and cover gasket. first when i took the cover off i was pleasently surprised to find and heat and oil staned valve train with no crud, even the inside of the valve cover was clean i was amazed usually on an engien this old with 190K slugde would be everywhere. clean clean clean. good for me. i read alot of the psots here on valve adjustments some say do it cold some say do it hot both engine off, some say up to temp and idleing at 650. the FSM says up to temp and running at idle. so idle both the at temp off adjustments and at temp at idle to try and be as accurate as possible.
- Thread starter
- #139
valve job
heres what i did had a couple knucklehead moments too!!!
warmed the engine up to operating temperature. the purpose is to allow the metal to expand under temp giving true readings so if you do the adjustment cold your clearances will tighten up as the engine comes up to temp. anyway i took a base line setting writting down what each valve was clearanced at had to bump the motor a few times to get all the valves completely open, but found that all of the valves were off .002 to .004 off factory spec. FSM states .008 on intake and .014 on exhaust for clearance. clearance is achieved by inserting the feeler guage between the valve and the rocker and looking for a slight drag/resistance on the feeler guage not to tight but not loose enought the next size guage can fit in. From there i did an adjustment to spec. it takes a while bumping the engine to get all the valves open. it was surprisingly easy to do. FSM also suggests retorquing the headbolts and rocker arm bar bolts, which i did and all were on spec except 1 rocker arm bar bolt and it was just off a foot pound or two. head bolts 97 ft/lbs, 14mm bolt 22 to 32 ft lbs and the 12mm 15 to 21ft lbs on the ranges i picked 27 and 18 and oddly thats where they were set.
Then i started the motor and immediately noticed a difference in smoothness still had stumbles but will get to that later. running at idle i let the oiling system work for a few minutes and verified operating temp and thermostat opening then checked clearance. i did this by begining on the front of the valve bumper side and sliding it through the contact point if clearance is correct it will bite on the feeler but you should be able to work it through if it won't go in its tights and if it binds once in and you feel the grabbing under openeing and closing then it is too tight. i verified clearance by if .008 and .014 could pass i would try the next size feeler up .009 and .015 if they also would pull through then i would adjust down if not all is good. i went through that process then turned off and checker while not running and repeated until all the measurements were consistant. its a PITA and it takes time the way i did it about 2 hrs but i am comfortable with the results. put on the new cover gasket and bolted her back up.
heres what i did had a couple knucklehead moments too!!!
warmed the engine up to operating temperature. the purpose is to allow the metal to expand under temp giving true readings so if you do the adjustment cold your clearances will tighten up as the engine comes up to temp. anyway i took a base line setting writting down what each valve was clearanced at had to bump the motor a few times to get all the valves completely open, but found that all of the valves were off .002 to .004 off factory spec. FSM states .008 on intake and .014 on exhaust for clearance. clearance is achieved by inserting the feeler guage between the valve and the rocker and looking for a slight drag/resistance on the feeler guage not to tight but not loose enought the next size guage can fit in. From there i did an adjustment to spec. it takes a while bumping the engine to get all the valves open. it was surprisingly easy to do. FSM also suggests retorquing the headbolts and rocker arm bar bolts, which i did and all were on spec except 1 rocker arm bar bolt and it was just off a foot pound or two. head bolts 97 ft/lbs, 14mm bolt 22 to 32 ft lbs and the 12mm 15 to 21ft lbs on the ranges i picked 27 and 18 and oddly thats where they were set.
Then i started the motor and immediately noticed a difference in smoothness still had stumbles but will get to that later. running at idle i let the oiling system work for a few minutes and verified operating temp and thermostat opening then checked clearance. i did this by begining on the front of the valve bumper side and sliding it through the contact point if clearance is correct it will bite on the feeler but you should be able to work it through if it won't go in its tights and if it binds once in and you feel the grabbing under openeing and closing then it is too tight. i verified clearance by if .008 and .014 could pass i would try the next size feeler up .009 and .015 if they also would pull through then i would adjust down if not all is good. i went through that process then turned off and checker while not running and repeated until all the measurements were consistant. its a PITA and it takes time the way i did it about 2 hrs but i am comfortable with the results. put on the new cover gasket and bolted her back up.
- Thread starter
- #140
now here is im and idiot.
finished the valve adjustment all pleased with myself and started to look for vacuum leaks. i know i had a few because of a idle stumble (lean), my carb tuning problems, and good advice from Jim C. and others i have taken from contributions on not only my comments and questions but on others issues.
First and a big first advice to anyone and everyone tighten you exhaust and intake manifold bolts to spec. in my infiite retardness seemed to overlook this minor item getting focused on the carb and fuel pump as culprits. so the engine is idleing at 700 and i begin checking the torque on the ex/in manifold found a couple on the top a little loose but nothing crazy until i got to the bottom two and they were hand turn loose. i tightened them up and the truck died. i had adjusted idle and running conditon to a severe vacuum leak(loose manifold) and when she tightend up she stopped running. after standing there stunned. i quickly readjusted base idle settings and adjusted idle speed started her up and reset lean best idle/idle speed/ and made a timing adjustment. Now she purs, still not super smooth so the investigation continues. i can of carb cleaner later i found small leaks/cracks in the PCV line on the underside closest to the engine, the intake vacuum port on the back side of the manifold by the coolant T on the head needed a quarter turn and the vacuum port on the carb base cap had a small pin hole so just replaced the cap. Someone recently posted a thread are vacuum leaks that important and i will say hell yea as many others have done. i know i need to replace the ex/in manifold gasket but atleast it is tight now. i also found an exhaust leak on the rear egr tube and will fix that when everything comes off and finally remove the rest of that system.
finished the valve adjustment all pleased with myself and started to look for vacuum leaks. i know i had a few because of a idle stumble (lean), my carb tuning problems, and good advice from Jim C. and others i have taken from contributions on not only my comments and questions but on others issues.
First and a big first advice to anyone and everyone tighten you exhaust and intake manifold bolts to spec. in my infiite retardness seemed to overlook this minor item getting focused on the carb and fuel pump as culprits. so the engine is idleing at 700 and i begin checking the torque on the ex/in manifold found a couple on the top a little loose but nothing crazy until i got to the bottom two and they were hand turn loose. i tightened them up and the truck died. i had adjusted idle and running conditon to a severe vacuum leak(loose manifold) and when she tightend up she stopped running. after standing there stunned. i quickly readjusted base idle settings and adjusted idle speed started her up and reset lean best idle/idle speed/ and made a timing adjustment. Now she purs, still not super smooth so the investigation continues. i can of carb cleaner later i found small leaks/cracks in the PCV line on the underside closest to the engine, the intake vacuum port on the back side of the manifold by the coolant T on the head needed a quarter turn and the vacuum port on the carb base cap had a small pin hole so just replaced the cap. Someone recently posted a thread are vacuum leaks that important and i will say hell yea as many others have done. i know i need to replace the ex/in manifold gasket but atleast it is tight now. i also found an exhaust leak on the rear egr tube and will fix that when everything comes off and finally remove the rest of that system.
