bmoonhajjar
GOLD Star
Very nice work as usual.
Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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Dallas while your att all this at tis level
you should ROUGH in the factory PTO opening with spot welded captued nuts
then make a OEM Service panel DELETE cover complete with a OEM-TYPE weather seal too
just think about how killer kool it will be when you scoop up my NOS PTO UNIT set up i have for you ...........
I don't think there is a reproduction of the exact size and shape, but as far as the material, the Evercoat Q-Pads, part number 100117 seem to be the exact same stuff. I learned about them from this thread: GUSB Thread. He did a good job of cutting them to a close approximation of the original. I used them on my floor, but I don't think I got as close as he did. The Q-Pads were pretty easy to cut though. I put some pics of mine in the What Have You Done This Week thread: My Content. Hope that helps!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #585
Very cool @GreaseMonkey - I'll check it out. @ToyotaMatt that would be cool...but.....
there is a thread where a fellow uses ICE and WATER shield type product ?
its sticky oon one side and not on the other
it is meant to be able to flex and contour house hold and commercial roof angles , pitch variations etc
sounds like a area of solid R&D for you Dallas ?
its water proof and will not cause rust to form if properly applied ....
is it paintable ?
i do not know ..........
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #588
I completed the timing cover project to include new seals and a gasket and factory torque specifications. I am hopeful the leak will be fixed. I am continuing to try to get the motor to how it looked in 1978, but I think it was more matte black, not gloss - but I could be mistaken.
Anyway - coming together. The rest of this week I am back to body work, fenders and doors.
Anyway - coming together. The rest of this week I am back to body work, fenders and doors.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Well in 1978 it didn’t have a fram filter on it 
.
.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Nice looking engine...!
The gloss might be better for keeping the grime off, and easier to clean.
The gloss might be better for keeping the grime off, and easier to clean.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #592
Great point. The quality of paints has also increased substantially over the years. In addition, the amount of paint (especially DIY'ers at home with a 1.8 tip on their guns) is significantly thicker than the mist things got in Japan back in the day. Side cover for example. I put a mist, plus two heavy coats of ceramic 2K engine paint on it. While others are powder coating as well. I wouldn't think the concours d'elegance will mark off points, but then again....I'm rollin' a fram, so......
Have any of you noticed on BaT the amount of high-end cars (250K+ in value) that have Fram oil/fuel filters? Anyway, as mentioned I have a small nest of the large OEM oil filters, but am even seeing people here on the forums asking 50 bucks each for them. I don't think a 2F cares....but then again to each our own. I only bought them because I am building a usable "show truck". One where I can enjoy light trails, coffee and cars get togethers, etc... and in that case, my 2F most undoubtedly cares about the quality of the oil fllter!
Thank you for the comments, I always enjoy the chatter on here.
Have any of you noticed on BaT the amount of high-end cars (250K+ in value) that have Fram oil/fuel filters? Anyway, as mentioned I have a small nest of the large OEM oil filters, but am even seeing people here on the forums asking 50 bucks each for them. I don't think a 2F cares....but then again to each our own. I only bought them because I am building a usable "show truck". One where I can enjoy light trails, coffee and cars get togethers, etc... and in that case, my 2F most undoubtedly cares about the quality of the oil fllter!
Thank you for the comments, I always enjoy the chatter on here.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #593
Cheers. For what it's worth. . .I use this thread first and foremost for help - and I thank you all for the countless hours of advice over the last nearly 20 years through the LCML and this forum. Having said that I also use this as the sole "repository" for all of the photos, documentation and log. This is also why I don't mind chipping in for the SILVER star.
...and because I pay for the service...ha ha ha - I'll use it to vent, too!
Back in the day when I was going through BCT (basic training), there was a latrine wayyy out in the woods next to a shooting range that was basically a giant hole in the ground with a cinder block hut built over it. Take a GIANT breath....go in.....piss in the hole and walk out. Breathing the air in that "sh#t bunker" would be deadly and likely knock years off your life.
The previous owner of my FJ40......is the only thing I know of to this day.....that is full of more sh1t than that bunker in the woods. Every exhale spewed lies as foul and deep as that trench. The grinch exudes minty vocabulary fresh enough to convince Hillary to vote conservative in comparison to the seller I bought the cruiser from.
In preparation to get the doors, fenders and panels ready for the paint booth - I decided to start pulling them all out of storage to evaluate and strip. Recall - for those of you that have been following all of this. The seller indicated "All original except for lift, tires and bumper." In addition to that, "only small field repairs were ever done to this thing, it is all original."
Take a look at these original doors - after I took a stripping wheel to them, igniting a bondo cloud the size of Australia into my garage:
A nice 1/4" to 3/8" thick in areas of filler.
Field repairs. That was my favorite one. Mother f#$%'in field repairs. What field? Is Maaco in a field somewhere?
Lucky for me, the fenders match. Dents, cracks, rust and a nice slathering of filler all in the shape of a fender.
So, what I thought was ok, is in fact, a disaster. Many more hours of dolly work, rust repair and so on to get this even remotely close to the level I want it to be. Damn. I am actually just worn out at this point.
So, there is my vent. Hey at least I have made good friends with the guys over at Airgas. "Another Argon/O2 Dallas?"...."Yep."
At some point in the future, I hope this FJ40 will make the forum proud. Until then....weld on.
...and because I pay for the service...ha ha ha - I'll use it to vent, too!
Back in the day when I was going through BCT (basic training), there was a latrine wayyy out in the woods next to a shooting range that was basically a giant hole in the ground with a cinder block hut built over it. Take a GIANT breath....go in.....piss in the hole and walk out. Breathing the air in that "sh#t bunker" would be deadly and likely knock years off your life.
The previous owner of my FJ40......is the only thing I know of to this day.....that is full of more sh1t than that bunker in the woods. Every exhale spewed lies as foul and deep as that trench. The grinch exudes minty vocabulary fresh enough to convince Hillary to vote conservative in comparison to the seller I bought the cruiser from.
In preparation to get the doors, fenders and panels ready for the paint booth - I decided to start pulling them all out of storage to evaluate and strip. Recall - for those of you that have been following all of this. The seller indicated "All original except for lift, tires and bumper." In addition to that, "only small field repairs were ever done to this thing, it is all original."
Take a look at these original doors - after I took a stripping wheel to them, igniting a bondo cloud the size of Australia into my garage:
A nice 1/4" to 3/8" thick in areas of filler.
Field repairs. That was my favorite one. Mother f#$%'in field repairs. What field? Is Maaco in a field somewhere?
Lucky for me, the fenders match. Dents, cracks, rust and a nice slathering of filler all in the shape of a fender.
So, what I thought was ok, is in fact, a disaster. Many more hours of dolly work, rust repair and so on to get this even remotely close to the level I want it to be. Damn. I am actually just worn out at this point.
So, there is my vent. Hey at least I have made good friends with the guys over at Airgas. "Another Argon/O2 Dallas?"...."Yep."
At some point in the future, I hope this FJ40 will make the forum proud. Until then....weld on.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Ha, giving me a good laugh Dallas, very well written btw!. I feel for ya, but at the end of this journey, you will have Nothing but pride, percerverience,patience, and a great feeling of accomplishement, not to mention a very worthy high dollar late dollar 40! On a sort of serious, but funny thought, I would considor eating a big burrito, drink a few beers, shot of tequila!…. Then poop 
n a bag, drop it on the sellers porch, light it on fire, then ring the doorbell and run
Cheers Brother, carry on, cant wait to see the finished gem of a 40 done right!!
n a bag, drop it on the sellers porch, light it on fire, then ring the doorbell and runCheers Brother, carry on, cant wait to see the finished gem of a 40 done right!!
On the bright side, all that Bondo weighs WAYYYY more than the new patch panels you will be installing, so 10 HP increase for your 1/4 mile trap time. On another note, that is a pretty nice frosting layer, kind of looks like a grooms cake for a wedding, 'I love my 40 Door"
The PO was a talented artisan to make all that Bondo look so smooth as to trick you into buying what you thought was a pretty straight truck. must have taken him freakin' HOURS to make it look that good.
The PO was a talented artisan to make all that Bondo look so smooth as to trick you into buying what you thought was a pretty straight truck. must have taken him freakin' HOURS to make it look that good.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Dang I thought my rigs were the only bondo queens 
. And not for hole filling but for looking pretty. I’ve hit some of that 1/4“+ stuff, quite impressive that they were able to float it so smooth and contoured to match the rig. Safe to say that any of these old steel rigs that have been repainted by a shop and don’t show spot weld divets on the doors, fenders, body, everywhere/anywhere has a good layer or 20 of bondo/filler. Appears to be standard practice in the auto body repaint world. Hard work to remove, but worth it. Great progress!
. And not for hole filling but for looking pretty. I’ve hit some of that 1/4“+ stuff, quite impressive that they were able to float it so smooth and contoured to match the rig. Safe to say that any of these old steel rigs that have been repainted by a shop and don’t show spot weld divets on the doors, fenders, body, everywhere/anywhere has a good layer or 20 of bondo/filler. Appears to be standard practice in the auto body repaint world. Hard work to remove, but worth it. Great progress!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #599
While awaiting steel/parts to arrive, I thought I'd also document the Toyota publications I have found specific to 1978. I thought it would be cool to have as much documentation available for the 1978 year as I could find.
Something I am learning is that 1978 is a strange "in between" year...where the bulk of the initial publication was from 74 to 76....77 and 78 were a bit skipped, with a few updated manuals, and then right into 79+ with the new body changes and updates. This is not a comprehensive list - just what I have found applies to 77/78!
EDIT: Several PM's on these - so I wanted to point out that a "Publication Number" ending in "E" or a manual that has the newer circular Toyota emblem are reprints of the same publications. For example, 98126 as pictured below is the original, 98126E is a reprint by Toyota and has various dates associated with them as copyrighted in the front pages, indicating the first printing of 1974.
From left to right:
1. 2F Engine manual, No. 98126 published in 1974. This is usually referenced as the 2F manual to use in almost all of 70's Land Cruiser books.
2. Chassis & Body, No. 98127 also printed in 1974, and also the companion referred to outside of any engine manual in about all 1970's books.
3. The revised Chassis & Body, No. 98154 printed in 1976, which refers to 98126 2F engine manual as the companion.
4. No. 98344 the Chassis Supplement printed in 1978, known as the "power steering" manual. Covers all power steering bits and SST used.
Backs:
5. 2F Engine Pub. No. 36104 printed 1981 - oddly covers most of the 1978 and on 2F engines. Everything that is not covered in the above. That is why it is nice, for owners of 1977 and 1978 cruisers to have both sets of green/brown manuals as both have specifics relating to these model years.
6. Chassis & Body Pub. No. 36044 (notice "Pub. No." and not just "No."). This book is thick - and covers 40 and 60 series. Printed 1980. An absolute wealth of information in this book - and contains again, a lot of oddities and nuances specific to the cruisers that came after 1976 that are not contained in the green books pictured above.
More photos of these:
7. Service Specifications for 1978 Models, No. 98257 printed in late 1977. This book is awesome. Torque specifications, lubricant details, engine and chassis services.
8. 2F Emission Control - hard to find this one as it is specific to 2F and 1978, printed in 1977. No. 98270, this is the map to the spaghetti of vacuum lines, routing, etc.. including all of the emission components and their servicing.
Backs:
Something I am learning is that 1978 is a strange "in between" year...where the bulk of the initial publication was from 74 to 76....77 and 78 were a bit skipped, with a few updated manuals, and then right into 79+ with the new body changes and updates. This is not a comprehensive list - just what I have found applies to 77/78!
EDIT: Several PM's on these - so I wanted to point out that a "Publication Number" ending in "E" or a manual that has the newer circular Toyota emblem are reprints of the same publications. For example, 98126 as pictured below is the original, 98126E is a reprint by Toyota and has various dates associated with them as copyrighted in the front pages, indicating the first printing of 1974.
From left to right:
1. 2F Engine manual, No. 98126 published in 1974. This is usually referenced as the 2F manual to use in almost all of 70's Land Cruiser books.
2. Chassis & Body, No. 98127 also printed in 1974, and also the companion referred to outside of any engine manual in about all 1970's books.
3. The revised Chassis & Body, No. 98154 printed in 1976, which refers to 98126 2F engine manual as the companion.
4. No. 98344 the Chassis Supplement printed in 1978, known as the "power steering" manual. Covers all power steering bits and SST used.
Backs:
5. 2F Engine Pub. No. 36104 printed 1981 - oddly covers most of the 1978 and on 2F engines. Everything that is not covered in the above. That is why it is nice, for owners of 1977 and 1978 cruisers to have both sets of green/brown manuals as both have specifics relating to these model years.
6. Chassis & Body Pub. No. 36044 (notice "Pub. No." and not just "No."). This book is thick - and covers 40 and 60 series. Printed 1980. An absolute wealth of information in this book - and contains again, a lot of oddities and nuances specific to the cruisers that came after 1976 that are not contained in the green books pictured above.
More photos of these:
7. Service Specifications for 1978 Models, No. 98257 printed in late 1977. This book is awesome. Torque specifications, lubricant details, engine and chassis services.
8. 2F Emission Control - hard to find this one as it is specific to 2F and 1978, printed in 1977. No. 98270, this is the map to the spaghetti of vacuum lines, routing, etc.. including all of the emission components and their servicing.
Backs:
Last edited:
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #600
9. Electrical Wiring Diagrams for 1978 Models, No. 98891. This is a binder of all wiring diagrams, that fold out quite large. Nice to have a big scale wiring diagram for the Cruiser. Printed in 1978.
10. Maintenance Procedures. Lucky to find a NOS one that was in a box for years, printed 1978 and contains all of the services and intervals for the 1978 models. Also contains reference to most of the above 2F/Chassis books. No. 98214.
Backs:
11. This is the owners manual set - will start with the red vinyl folder - with the business card slot on the front that dealers would slide their cards into.
1978 Owner's Manual, Publication No. 9739A, 07-78040-04, printed 1978.
1978 Owners Guide, "300M SOP(1177) 00400-01847 - contains service information/intervals, "The Toyota Story" and other neat bits.
Not necessarily a part of the manual family, as printed in the United States by Toyota Sales, US. Still, from Toyota for 1978 and fun to have. There are three of them and I am missing the specific "1978 Land Cruiser" sales brochure. These two are the general Cars & Trucks as well as the options and accessories for that year (in brief).
While this couples' skill in selecting a classic 4-Wheel drive is pro....their abilities in building a snowman need a bit of help.
10. Maintenance Procedures. Lucky to find a NOS one that was in a box for years, printed 1978 and contains all of the services and intervals for the 1978 models. Also contains reference to most of the above 2F/Chassis books. No. 98214.
Backs:
11. This is the owners manual set - will start with the red vinyl folder - with the business card slot on the front that dealers would slide their cards into.
1978 Owner's Manual, Publication No. 9739A, 07-78040-04, printed 1978.
1978 Owners Guide, "300M SOP(1177) 00400-01847 - contains service information/intervals, "The Toyota Story" and other neat bits.
Not necessarily a part of the manual family, as printed in the United States by Toyota Sales, US. Still, from Toyota for 1978 and fun to have. There are three of them and I am missing the specific "1978 Land Cruiser" sales brochure. These two are the general Cars & Trucks as well as the options and accessories for that year (in brief).
While this couples' skill in selecting a classic 4-Wheel drive is pro....their abilities in building a snowman need a bit of help.
