Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

[JDNs78FJ40]

@JDNs78FJ40 would you be willing to provide the link to the flange you found on ebay? Would it mate up to the flange on the exhaust pipe/muffler so that all I need to do is then have the exhaust shop tie my downpipe to the muffler? Last, where did you find the mounting rubber/hardware out of curiosity?

Here ya go! GBE TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 2F ENGINE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE - LASER CUT | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/GBE-TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-2F-ENGINE-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-FLANGE-LASER-CUT-/264020048055?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

What mounting rubber/hardware are you referring too and I’ll check?

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

is that a stainless steel flange ?

or

just thick mild steel / regular magnetic metal ?

thanks

I would guess it’s just thick mild steel.

 

[mrboatman]

The add states:
FOR SALE IS ONE LASER CUT
EXHAUST FLANGE FOR THE
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 2F ENGINE
MADE FROM 3/8 MILD STEEL

 

[SteveH]

I bought one from a MUD guy last year - appears to be 5/16". I will add the link tomorrow, as I bookmarked it at my office.

This guy: For Sale - Bozeman MT. FJ40 Exhaust Flange - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bozeman-mt-fj40-exhaust-flange.1224847/

 

[dmaddox]

Very cool - thank you all. I am looking for the flange not for the downpipe at the header, but as a flange to connect the muffler mentioned earlier we can still order from Toyota. This: Toyota Land Cruiser Pipe assembly, exhaust, tail. Engine - 1743061120 | Battlefield Toyota, Culpeper VA - https://parts.battlefieldtoyota.com/p/Toyota__Land-Cruiser/PIPE-ASSEMBLY---EXHAUST---TAIL/63124988/1743061120.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla_with_promotion&partnerDevice=c&userLocation=9004323&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8IaGBhCHARIsAGIRRYoZ6WW1yDwFsybFze37SgFxRRfUyMF9NvDeHp7AP8bcMgh6MttGPW8aAiw-EALw_wcB

I am not sure if the pattern is the same at the muffler as it is on the downpipe, I am assuming it is.

Thank you

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[dmaddox]

So, is this available - or you showing the flange or? Thank you.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So, is this available - or you showing the flange or? Thank you.

TECH REFRENCE for flange topic only

never soft sell in Dallas's thread is the rule .......

 

[dmaddox]

I appreciate the information everyone. Thank you for helping the project along. I should have some photo updates in the near future. I am knee deep in body work and working on panels. My goal is to have more mustard sprayed and assembly going on by years end. I can't believe I went down this rabbit hole. Stupid of me.

 

[dmaddox]

@ToyotaMatt - curious if your photo is the same part number - as what you show has a giant heat shield on it (or perhaps is an additional part). I have ordered the flanges, and will update as it comes together.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@ToyotaMatt - curious if your photo is the same part number - as what you show has a giant heat shield on it (or perhaps is an additional part). I have ordered the flanges, and will update as it comes together.

i will try to produce the OEM part # for everyone here shortly .........

its a 40 series oem toyota genuine parts 17430- Muffler for sure

 

[dmaddox]

The only part of the 2F I didn't touch was the timing cover. Now, while it is all accessible and apparently weeping oil, I am pulling the cover off to replace the seal and gasket.

I have a few questions - as many of these as I've taken off over the years, I am finding myself once again saying "Hmm....I've never seen that before."

I went to put the ol 42mm socket on the impact gun to spin off the claw nut on the crank pully. Yet, I found a 19mm......bolt?

Anyone ever see this? First, a brass collar followed by a dished washer.....followed by a lock washer, and then the 19mm bolt.

I'd never worked with this before - every crank I have had, had a male end with a 42mm claw nut on it. What in tarnation?

I went back and measured to verify this was indeed a Toyota crank pulley:

Clearly weeping oil on the bottom, here. A few things caught my eye.

1. What crank is this, that its female on the end?
2. I verified and double checked the 2F motor - and the number corresponds to a 01/78 production (numbers matching, as they say - best we can with the documentation)
3. The oil nozzle is loose. FSM says to stake. When I snug it - the spray hole is in about the 11 o'clock position, so turning it to spray directly between the gears, the nozzle is no longer snug. Not sure how to stake it.....I'm more tempted to just use a thread lock on it.

I can't wait to clean this area up and make it right!

Feels good to be working on the 40 again. Have a good day.

 

[SteveH]

I would clean the nozzle and threads exquisitely and use a red (heat type) threadlocker. You can also stake it with a chisel when done - the staking is supposed to upset the metal enough to keep it from randomly unscrewing.

Someone like Mark Whatley could chime in on the crank.

 

[dmaddox]

Cool - thank you, Steve. I am not sure what to make of the crank. Since the motor runs well and has great compression, I'll leave well enough alone. It is more of an interest in what the deal is and what implications that involves...

 

[dmaddox]

I have inspected the dimensions and details of this crank and other 2F cranks. The threaded "male" end of the crank has been machined off (luckily not just hacked off with a cut off wheel) and expertly drilled and tapped. I am guessing because of mangled threads on the crank at some point in its life. The good news is at least it was done correctly, not that I agree with the washer setup, but I will use thread lock and torque appropriately on reassembly and then just keep an eye on it moving forward.

 

[dmaddox]

With the help of a friend, I was able to find an original 1978 starter. In working to have the most period-correct restoration I can, I wanted to use an original starter as opposed to the newer (and likely more efficient and effective) starters.

The 2F engine FSM was a lot of fun to use with this. In particular, the testing procedures for both the thrust of the solenoid as well as the amps drawn from the starter when engaged. Neat stuff - or maybe just for me?

Restoration candidate:

The good news was it passed the amp test (draw, 50A) and was in overall great shape.

I probably could have just gotten away with replacing the somewhat sticky solenoid and wiping it down, but I wanted to keep in looking like the rest of the project. The insides were a little oily/dirty but in useable shape - shape where I could use electromotive cleaner and degrease it all.

After cleaning it all up, I used the same fabric electrical tape to isolate the leads at the top.

Love the FSM for jobs like this.

Finished product:

 

[POPO AGIE]

I had to replace mine because it had gotten very cold and the starter was getting old and I missed a day's work when it would not start at -20. While I was doing the work outdoors on the street I heard a camera shutter from behind. There was a reported from the Rock Springs Rocket Minor that had been walking around looking for opportunities to photograph. My two pictures were in the paper a few days later.

 

[dmaddox]

A few more photos of the timing cover and crank pulley.

I cleaned them up nicely and then wiped down with lacquer thinner.

I then taped off mating surfaces and as mentioned, cleaned again.

You can see a few rattle can short cuts here and there with my restoration, but for the mass majority I have used all two part urethane paints or better.

Hit with a mist to surface prep:

Then three heavy coats, allowing 10 min between each:

 

[ToyotaMatt]

A few more photos of the timing cover and crank pulley.

I cleaned them up nicely and then wiped down with lacquer thinner.

View attachment 2746373

I then taped off mating surfaces and as mentioned, cleaned again.

You can see a few rattle can short cuts here and there with my restoration, but for the mass majority I have used all two part urethane paints or better.

View attachment 2746374

Hit with a mist to surface prep:

View attachment 2746375

Then three heavy coats, allowing 10 min between each:

View attachment 2746376

REMEMBER Dallas :

follow the Prescribed BOLTS chart in the FSM or here in the microfiche , all the 6mm little rascals are different size spec's /.........................fyi

 

[dmaddox]

Now you can all likely see why I decided to take a break! The transmission cover. Ugh. Most of the transmission covers I was finding required welding anyway - so I decided just to fix the one I had. Other than rust it is great.

Pretty gross start:

CAD - "Cardboard Aided Design" work - just to get an idea of what steel I'd need.

Two chunks and two more to create the "lip".

Cut out the rust and placed the first piece and a separate thinner piece for the lip.

Then, cut a new chunk to form

The metal version of form in place gasket, lol....

Welded in and adding the "lip"

Now, I'll strip the entire thing and add a few touch ups and it should be solid again. Not my best work, but straight, clean and will finish very nicely under sanded primer and paint.

Lunch hour at the home office, for the win.