1978 FJ40 2F Engine swap (1 Viewer)

[Texican]

Wiggle it! Hopefully no stabbing.

Won't work but good luck.......

 

[bsevans]

Pull the engine trans/case out as a unit. then you will see your FJ60 bell housing won't work.. it has no place for the mounts on the sides.......since you have to swap these, install a new rear main seal while there.....your 60 will have a huge motor mount on the passenger side front that also holds the AC compressor, this will hit the battery box, so use the 78, I prefer to use all externals off the year of the truck......one thing I would keep is the oil cooler which your 78 don't have.
Engine and trans are impossible to install unless you do them as a unit. I take the bell housing mounts off, as they always seem to hit on the way out and in....another trick is to roll the truck instead of trying to roll the engine hoist, much easier, a ratchet strap from the post on the hoist to the engine helps keep it from twisting....IF you got the distributor coil and ignitor, this is a better ignition system than your 78...

The bell housing will work. An adapter is available that mounts to either side of the frame rails and bolts to the transfer case replacing the rear cover. Many 40 owners use them. The adapter is quite stout. I have an 86/87 2F out of a FJ60 and it has the bell housing you got. I would suggest you use it and buy the MAF kit. If you ever think you are going to put a 5 speed in you will avoid a lot of modification to the older bell housing. They say you should weld the mounts to the frame, however, I know a number of installation utilizing grade 8 bolts that do not show any signs of frame cracking. The isolators on each side are substantial.

MAF Rear Crossmember Mount

 

[toyman317]

I am watching this thread closely because I am doing the same thing to my 78. Currently the engine is out but the tranny is still in and supported exactly like yours (ratchet strap). With a floor jack under the tranny, it does seem you have a lot of maneuverability to get the engine and tranny to mate up but Texican seems pretty certain it won't work for some reason. I am hoping for the best on mine as well. That would be a pain to have to pull the tranny and TC under the truck. Thanks for posting your process.

 

[Texican]

I am watching this thread closely because I am doing the same thing to my 78. Currently the engine is out but the tranny is still in and supported exactly like yours (ratchet strap). With a floor jack under the tranny, it does seem you have a lot of maneuverability to get the engine and tranny to mate up but Texican seems pretty certain it won't work for some reason. I am hoping for the best on mine as well. That would be a pain to have to pull the tranny and TC under the truck. Thanks for posting your process.[/QUO

I have tried this several times, I even fabricated a solid mount that held the trans absolutely rigid, I have never been able to install them, the throwout bearing will fall on ya, no way to hold it secure.....but go for it, just a royal PITA to lay on your back to remove the transfer case, than have to jerk the engine back out to install it.....just remember, I told ya so

 

[rbgerrish]

Answered.

 

[shelfboy1]

i have installed countless motors in fj 40s,and have done them seperate with no problems.take your time line things up and they usually slide together .i geuss after 40 years of doing them that way they get easier each time . good luck on your project.

 

[rbgerrish]

i have installed countless motors in fj 40s,and have done them seperate with no problems.take your time line things up and they usually slide together .i geuss after 40 years of doing them that way they get easier each time . good luck on your project.

That's what I've read here on the forum. It can be a challenge, but most people find success with a couple people, a strap or two, and some patience.

Thanks!

 

[toyman317]

It seems to me that if you change just the engine, you have to stab it in there anyway. Whether inside the vehicle or out, it seems it would be difficult for one to do it alone. With a couple guys wiggling the transmission and engine and some good assembly lube holding in the bearing, it should work. Would it be that much easier being done outside the vehicle?

How soon do you plan on doing this?

 

[rbgerrish]

It seems to me that if you change just the engine, you have to stab it in there anyway. Whether inside the vehicle or out, it seems it would be difficult for one to do it alone. With a couple guys wiggling the transmission and engine and some good assembly lube holding in the bearing, it should work. Would it be that much easier being done outside the vehicle?

How soon do you plan on doing this?

Exactly, if it's too hard to get them back together, we take the tranny out and do it outside the rig. I plan to use a bunch of thick grease to hold the bearing, and I'll invite another friend over so we'll have 3.

Not sure when we'll be able to do it, our weekends are pretty booked these days. Sometime in the next 3 weeks I'd guess!

Thanks!

 

[toyman317]

Any update on the install?

 

[mydogpea]

Wiggle it! Hopefully no stabbing.

I tried this once, just once! I'll never do it that way again!!! Lots of swearing. Hopefully when you "wiggle it" into place, the clutch plate will not have shifted at all, because if it does, and most likely it will, you'll have to pull it apart and do it all over again.
Much easier to mate the engine & tranny outside of the truck and install them as one unit. I just did it in my FJ55 by myself. That's how much easier it is.
But, if you must do it the hard way the first time around, go for it.
Best of luck.

 

[subzali]

To keep your new motor from overheating, remove the license plate from the grill. I am sure that is killing the air flow across the radiator.

Yep, get an OEM license plate and put it off to the side. Like one of these:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/510028-color-capri-blue-spring-green.html#post6864581

The sheets these folks use to protect their fenders are nicer than the ones on my bed! And, that's a perfectly good flannel shirt protecting the front bib.

I like that blue color. I'm shopping for a color for my frame off resto. What's that color called? Is it the factory sky blue (854)?

My brother and I once got a 2F stuck in his driveway. We didn't put wheels under it and could not move it after we dropped it there. Had to drag it with his other FJ40. Left a groove 1/4 inch deep down the asphalt. Rental house, oh well. . .

jbee, I have a '77 FJ40 and a 2000 Tundra also. Creepy.

Looks like fun. Good luck with the swap.

Also, as you'll come to find out, the correct abbreviation for your FJ40 is simply a "40" as the abbreviation "FJ" covers a lot of series whether it be a 40, 50, 60, 70 or even 80 series.

โชคดี!

And FJ Cruisers!

Probably not, as it's been driven that way for a long time without problem. The overheating was probably caused by driving the truck in low-range on the freeway for 2 hours @ 50mph.

Wow, pushing a little over 4000 rpm for an extended period of time. Could do it!

 

[SteveH]

I would continue to use the original FJ40 bellhousing and save the FJ60 housing for another day or another project. If you install a 5 speed, the bellhousing will be a small issue at that time.

 

[Sputnik40]

Nice 40, really sharp color. I'm with the others on pulling the engine/tranny/t-case and reassembling on the ground, but if the plan is to get the engine in and bolted up - and then slide the transmission in - yeah, not that big a deal. If you're trying to leave the transmission suspended between the frame rails and stab it in while the engine is still half hanging from the engine hoist, I want to see that on a You Tube video.

Concur with keeping the 2F bellhousing - never been a big fan of the AA rear t-case cross member. If you do go that route be sure to get the newer version with the integrated input shaft cover - less leaks to deal with.

Good luck.

 

[rbgerrish]

Any update on the install?

Not yet, these are the busy months! Lots of other activities. Hopefully we'll have a weekend coming up to swap all the goodies from one engine to the other. We'll decide how to put it all back together later, but it looks like the "out of the truck" group is leading.

 

[rbgerrish]

Hi all,

We've spent a couple days since the last post working on the 40. We stripped the new engine and transfered over the old accessories over to it. We've removed the Bellhousings, and before we attach the 2F housing to the new engine, I had a clutch question...

Will the clutch pressure plate and disc from the 60 work with the bellhousing and 4 speed in the 40? They are different, but I suspect they'd work.

This is the old one from the 40:

This is the new one from the 60:

Thanks for the help!

 

[Texican]

Will the clutch pressure plate and disc from the 60 work with the bellhousing and 4 speed in the 40?
Thanks for the help!

yes

 

[rbgerrish]

Ok, we've got the clutch from the 60 in, as well as its gear-reduction starter. I just need to pick up a belt from Napa, and we should be about ready to put this thing back in!

 

[rbgerrish]

I'm going to grab a new throwout bearing from NAPA. I read that I should grease it- what type of grease, and how much should I use? I have some trailer bearing grease that's blueish green.

 

[Texican]

I'm going to grab a new throwout bearing from NAPA. I read that I should grease it- what type of grease, and how much should I use? I have some trailer bearing grease that's blueish green.

Will be pre packed, no way to get grease in there anyway.......you will have to press the old brg off and the new one on....