1978 FJ40, 2f, Carb, Vacuum, Rpm’s, timing (7 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 22, 2021
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Location
Metairie, LA
Hey guys - finally went ahead a did a “rebuild” on my 2f carb. The float valve was sticking amongst other things. I put carb back on and similar symptoms - idle fuel pulling through Venturi. I read in the forum to blow out the idle circuit, likely blocked (with compressed air and carb cleaner). I took the solenoid out, blew; idle mixture screw, blew; and vacuum line out to dizzy. All I can say is WOW. What a huge difference.

Now my issue is this. I can rotate out the idle mixture screw and achieve 20” of vacuum (sea level) but I cannot get the RPMs (850) down to say 675 (note: measuring using a small engine wire wrap tach) by adjusting the idle speed out. I took a look at the timing and don’t see the BB. So I’m thinking I may need to retard the timing to get on the BB and then perhaps that will settle down the carb? We are shooting for max vacuum at 650rpms, +\- 50 correct?? Please provide suggestions here. I’ll tackle timing after rain threat.
 
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This guy has a good video. I suppose you can debate about the importance of doing this when the air cleaner on. Should you have it on? I suppose. Will you notice a difference? I can't. And it's a lot easier to do it with it off.

 
If you don't see the BB then you need to rotate the dizzy until you can locate the BB. You can't properly lean drop until you know where timing is. Mark the dot/BB with a white marker if you need to see it clearly. Pop the inspection cover off, rotate motor and brake clean and paint the dot nicely. Then you can time accordingly. Once timing is right and if you have 20* of vacuum, then you should get down to 500rpms or lower unless there are other outstanding issues.
 
look into @Pin_Head's videos here on MUD
 

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