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- #21
1976 FJ40 OEM Power steering Slop
- Thread starter Fzjrvakma
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- 1976 fj40 power steering steering
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77mustard40
SILVER Star
Hmmm that looks stock
76 wouldn't have the block drilled and tapped for the pump mount, that started in Jan 1979
the column is too close to the steering box, the stock PS column is shorter than a non PS column, existing column needs spaced into the cab
PO's do strange stuff:
this could be titling the rig as a 1976 to not deal with emision laws
the engine could have been swapped out along with the steering into an older rig
does it have a PS cooler? stock would have been a loop line run under the radiator on the crossmember
or other stuff
pics of the entire rig?
the column is too close to the steering box, the stock PS column is shorter than a non PS column, existing column needs spaced into the cab
PO's do strange stuff:
this could be titling the rig as a 1976 to not deal with emision laws
the engine could have been swapped out along with the steering into an older rig
does it have a PS cooler? stock would have been a loop line run under the radiator on the crossmember
or other stuff
pics of the entire rig?
Last edited:
77mustard40
SILVER Star
I was thinking engine swap after seeing the pump. Still can’t tell if the PS box is FJ40 or mini
Looks like the stock cooling loop is there. Seems like it’s time to check the frame number and see what year it is
- Thread starter
- #26
Hope we can figure this out. Can't wait to hear all the comments criticizing my girl here...
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Mini truck boxes have less angle compared to base than 40 series power steering. That's why the need for a replacement pedestal with a much different angle.
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- #28
- Thread starter
- #29
Everything lines up with the frame number 217489 and the SOR chart, for February of 76:
I used to have a '76 and added mini-truck power steering to it. I had a 2F from a later year FJ60, so it had the pump mounts in the block. My setup looked very similar to yours, minus the riveted pedestal. I think you need a different pedestal with the correct angle for the mini-truck box. Here's the link to my install thread:
Just Added Power Steering - OEM pump & Mini-truck box - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/just-added-power-steering-oem-pump-mini-truck-box.286745/
Your rag joint is toast. At one point, my was too, and the slop was UNREAL. Replace that bad boy ASAP, as others have recommended!
Just Added Power Steering - OEM pump & Mini-truck box - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/just-added-power-steering-oem-pump-mini-truck-box.286745/
Your rag joint is toast. At one point, my was too, and the slop was UNREAL. Replace that bad boy ASAP, as others have recommended!
- Thread starter
- #31
Hey thanks for the input. Are you saying I do have a mini-truck box/setup then? I've got the rag joint on order, so I'm just trying to figure out where I'm starting.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
How well does the steering column line up with steering box? It’s tough to tell from the photos and vids. Because your box is mounted to the original pedestal I’m thinking you may have an FJ40 box. Other than the mounting angle of the mounting foot, I believe the 40 box is identical to the min-truck box. Here is the kit I used on my mini box rebuild, this kit also fits the FJ40 box from the early 80’s.
I‘m telling you this so you can decide if you want to rebuild everything vs switching to 60 or 80 steering. Fully rebuilt setup on your rig will never be as strong and tight as having a 60 or 80 box, but it works fine for rigs running up to 33” tires. You haven’t really shared your plans for the 40, but you should have that vision up front.
I‘m telling you this so you can decide if you want to rebuild everything vs switching to 60 or 80 steering. Fully rebuilt setup on your rig will never be as strong and tight as having a 60 or 80 box, but it works fine for rigs running up to 33” tires. You haven’t really shared your plans for the 40, but you should have that vision up front.
Well...I'm not sure. Your pump is in the stock location and looks like it is mounted using tapped holes in your block. This makes me wonder if your engine is original to the truck. In other words, P/S was not a factory option until 1979 and, therefore, there were no mounting holes in the block for a 1976 2F engine. I'd check your engine number...
Also, I think you are running the stock '76 pedestal which would be an incorrect angle using a mini-truck steering box. That could explain the excessive wear on your rag joint.
I ran 31x10.5x15's on my rig. Even with snow chains and using a snowplow in the winter, I could turn the steering wheel with one hand. Just FYI....
Also, I think you are running the stock '76 pedestal which would be an incorrect angle using a mini-truck steering box. That could explain the excessive wear on your rag joint.
I ran 31x10.5x15's on my rig. Even with snow chains and using a snowplow in the winter, I could turn the steering wheel with one hand. Just FYI....
My PO installed what I **think** is a minitruck PS box, and looking at the pictures of your it seems like the mount point between the box and the pedestal is different:
I would also be pretty sure toyota never welded the mounting pedestal to the frame, I would assume if it was original from them it would be riveted to the frame rail?
Mine is, again I **THINK**, from an early '80'ish solid axle mini truck, I also have a box someone though into a box of misc junk they sold me another PS box that's entirely different, and probably from an IFS truck... And that looks much different, I'm sure yours isn't the same as that one either.
Either way, opposite of the output shaft where the pitman arm mounts, there should be an adjust screw, back off the nut, turn the screw, tighten the nut.... It helped mine A LOT. But other people gave me a bunch of warnings to be really cautious and try very little (like 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the most) because over tightening will apparently blow them up pretty quickly.
Longer term, seems like a bunch of guys are pretty happy with there 60 or 80 series conversions and sound like the way to go if I was rebuilding this. But mine's on the road and driving so I'm leaving that alone for now, new tie rod ends, tightening the box, and most of all repacking and tightening the wheel bearings fix all my issues (replacing the box wouldn't have solved that). And some caster shims...
I would also be pretty sure toyota never welded the mounting pedestal to the frame, I would assume if it was original from them it would be riveted to the frame rail?
Mine is, again I **THINK**, from an early '80'ish solid axle mini truck, I also have a box someone though into a box of misc junk they sold me another PS box that's entirely different, and probably from an IFS truck... And that looks much different, I'm sure yours isn't the same as that one either.
Either way, opposite of the output shaft where the pitman arm mounts, there should be an adjust screw, back off the nut, turn the screw, tighten the nut.... It helped mine A LOT. But other people gave me a bunch of warnings to be really cautious and try very little (like 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the most) because over tightening will apparently blow them up pretty quickly.
Longer term, seems like a bunch of guys are pretty happy with there 60 or 80 series conversions and sound like the way to go if I was rebuilding this. But mine's on the road and driving so I'm leaving that alone for now, new tie rod ends, tightening the box, and most of all repacking and tightening the wheel bearings fix all my issues (replacing the box wouldn't have solved that). And some caster shims...
- Thread starter
- #35
At this point I just want normal tight steering and I don't want to have to do any welding. What's my best option? Can I do the FJ60 without having to weld anything? Planning on going no bigger than 35 inch tires and don't need anything real crazy in terms of off-road capability. Just beach and dune driving.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
from the video, the center pivot looks to be quite sloppy. Several folks here offer rebuild kits for these. Also the drag link where it connects to the steering arm - easy to take apart, clean and repack with grease. Certainly the Rag joint needs replacing.
Jack up one wheel and see if you can move it back and forth - tie rod ends under load are hard to check.
Start with those fairly simple and lo cost items, and then see how it feels, and go from there.
Cheers
Jack up one wheel and see if you can move it back and forth - tie rod ends under load are hard to check.
Start with those fairly simple and lo cost items, and then see how it feels, and go from there.
Cheers
If you're not up for at least grinding off a bunch of rivets and drilling new holes in your frame, or welding on it, you're gonna want to fix what is already there.
Find where it is loose and replace the worn parts and adjust the toe in. Caster shims can also help, but don't expect a lot out of them if everything else isn't in good shape already.
Find where it is loose and replace the worn parts and adjust the toe in. Caster shims can also help, but don't expect a lot out of them if everything else isn't in good shape already.
- Thread starter
- #38
Do you guys know if the conversion process is the same for an FJ62 gearbox as it is for an FJ60? Looking at a good deal for a 62 GB.
yes, it would be the same,
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- #40
Hey all, so I had Redhead rebuild my OEM PS box that was from an early 1980s FJ. With that being the case, do I need to swap out the original non-PS mount?
