Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (4 Viewers)

[mrboatman]

I can't get the link to work.

At this point, I'm not touching the thing. Every time I think I know what I'm doing, someone points out that the color blue I am using has the wrong smell, and I am Lost Like a Mother F*cker.

I hear you wiring is a real bitch to me. Here is a screen shot

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

At a certain point it may become a more viable option to pull the entire harness and rebuild it, end to end. Staple it to some plywood and go at it. Draw a diagram of every connector you work on, how they enter each and every one.

The stuff is available.

So is whiskey.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Body work is harder.

 

[120mm]

At a certain point it may become a more viable option to pull the entire harness and rebuild it, end to end. Staple it to some plywood and go at it. Draw a diagram of every connector you work on, how they enter each and every one.

The stuff is available.

So is whiskey.

Body work is harder.

At this point, it would've been easier and more satisfying to do a frame off. I'm calling bull*****t to every one of the people that recommended getting it running as is first.

I'd much rather be doing things for the last time than taping together a turd.

Bodywork never frustrated me. Wiring is for masochists

 

[ToyotaMatt]

- Black w/ white tracer = the ST circuit

- black w / yellow tracer = the IG circuit

- OLD black w/ red tracer / now per Toyota TSB bulletin 9/71 is white with / blue tracer = AM circuit

- blue w / RED tracer optional NON-USA ACC , or accessories circut , radio , CB , etc ......

 

[120mm]

I hear you wiring is a real bitch to me. Here is a screen shot
View attachment 3192380

I have no idea what you are trying to tell me with that picture.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

you can simply CAP the blue wire w/ RED tracer stripe if NOT used , the connector plug on my pigtail included with ALL switches i mail out only fits on one possible way

its KEYED that way to avoid any confusion of total harness melt downs


matt

 

[120mm]

- Black w/ white tracer = the ST circuit

- black w / yellow tracer = the IG circuit

- OLD black w/ red tracer / now per Toyota TSB bulletin 9/71 is white with / blue tracer = AM circuit

- blue w / RED tracer optional NON-USA ACC , or accessories circut , radio , CB , etc ......




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View attachment 3192409View attachment 3192410View attachment 3192411View attachment 3192412View attachment 3192413View attachment 3192414

I'm assuming the BY and BW wires fix to the stock wires, so which one hooks up to the Black/Red wire that is left?

 

[120mm]

you can simply CAP the blue wire w/ RED tracer stripe if NOT used , the connector plug on my pigtail included with ALL switches i mail out only fits on one possible way

its KEYED that way to avoid any confusion of total harness melt downs


matt



View attachment 3192416
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View attachment 3192418

Question answered

 

[120mm]

Well, sorry for the outburst there.

@rkymtnflyfisher Whisky was definitely involved.

Sorry to say, pulling the loom appears to be the best solution at this point. The wiring is just too far gone in too many places.

It's a journey, not a destination.

BTW. This is a great opportunity to fix the dash, and restore all the knobs.

 

[120mm]

So... any favorite threads on how to pull a loom and fix it? The basics seem straightforward.

Get rid of as much stuff that's in the way as possible, disconnect and mark wires, yank them out.

Staple them to a 4x8 sheet of plywood roughly in the shape of a wiring diagram, and replace one wire at a time with connectors.

Estimating what wires and connectors are needed appears to be the hardest bit. That and keeping a record of what went where and how.

 

[120mm]

Just thought of something: In the process of building the new loom, add length where necessary to accommodate the newer engine + build pigtails into the system so wires don't have to stretch to reach the components like the cobbled together garbage that is in there does.

 

[120mm]

Speaking of fixing the dash. My annoyance level at the flat black paint has significantly reduced once I determined it can be stripped off with Goo Gone

 

[pb4ugo]

So... any favorite threads on how to pull a loom and fix it? The basics seem straightforward.

Get rid of as much stuff that's in the way as possible, disconnect and mark wires, yank them out.

Staple them to a 4x8 sheet of plywood roughly in the shape of a wiring diagram, and replace one wire at a time with connectors.

Estimating what wires and connectors are needed appears to be the hardest bit. That and keeping a record of what went where and how.

Your making it seem harder than it is. When you remove the harness you'll be marking the plugs from what they came from and you should have a wiring diagram. When you lay the harness harness on the board it will become evident how they relate to the vehicle and their location. You may not have to totally strip all the tape off. You will probably see where the op cut into the harness. You may just need to clean up spots or lengthen certain wires. Coolerman sells color coded wire, plugs, and terminal ends. You need good crimpers, butt connecters and shrink tubing to do most of the repairs. An OHM/ multi meter is needed so you can check continuity. Places that you think you need additional length can be added and not terminated and can addressed when the harness goes back in the 40. I inspected my harness determined what I needed and placed an order with Coolerman. I ordered more connectors and plugs than I needed for my own inventory. Fortunately, I had a few old cut up harnesses that I could steal wire and some plugs from. If your going to replace all the wires and make a new harness then stripping everything back is required. That will be a lot more work.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

All of that up there.

 

[120mm]

I spent the last 5 days flat on my back with some kind of bug. I feel better now, and to warm up to working on Mavis some more, I went after more of that black paint. Saved the ashtray but the instrument bezel needs a repaint along with new rubber.

 

[120mm]

So, a brief internet search tells me I am SOL on replacement gaskets for the instrument cluster. Fortunately, the majority of the rubber is there, though it has broken here and there. I will carefully try to reassemble everything and use gasket maker to bridge the gaps. After I paint it the correct, or at least close to correct color.

 

[Thechief86]

So, a brief internet search tells me I am SOL on replacement gaskets for the instrument cluster. Fortunately, the majority of the rubber is there, though it has broken here and there. I will carefully try to reassemble everything and use gasket maker to bridge the gaps. After I paint it the correct, or at least close to correct color.

Parts stores sell different rolls of gasket material, I'd use some of the thick foam gasket stuff and just cut out a new one. It's less than $10

 

[120mm]

Parts stores sell different rolls of gasket material, I'd use some of the thick foam gasket stuff and just cut out a new one. It's less than $10

Unfortunately, the gaskets involved are tiny in profile and hold the glass in place. I think I'll try making my own with silicone

 

[120mm]

Ordered these awhile back and promptly forgot I had.