pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It's plugged into the harness, so there's probably one switch in the dash that isn't.
Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (2 Viewers)
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Here's a pic from another 69 I know about.
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- #403
Mystery solved. Some P.O. back before recorded time decided to wire in a dash light right where the hazard light used to be, which has since been disconnected.
Now I have a rectangular hole where a smaller round one should be. And I need to find a replacement red knob.
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- #405
Discovered the hard way that a single domestic circuit won't run a welder, a water heater and a space heater during a lightning storm when water gets into the circuit.
Spent the last couple days running the water heater and wife side garage door opener off a drop cord. Had a real live electrician come in and give me 220 on a 50 amp circuit.
Then I proceeded to continue putting parts back on Mavis to prep for a test run. Hopefully soon.
Fuel tank in and connected, and heater attached but not plumbed yet
Spent the last couple days running the water heater and wife side garage door opener off a drop cord. Had a real live electrician come in and give me 220 on a 50 amp circuit.
Then I proceeded to continue putting parts back on Mavis to prep for a test run. Hopefully soon.
Fuel tank in and connected, and heater attached but not plumbed yet
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- #406
Getting closer....
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- #407
Time to tackle this crap.
It looks like I have three obvious wires for the ignition switch, as they match two of the four wires which come off the new ignition switch and just "happen" to terminate right behind its location.
The black and yellow and black and white wires match up. What's left is a white and blue and blue and red wire. There is a black and red wire that looks butchered there and terminates in a similar connection.
I'm pretty sure my alternator has a regulator built in, so I can bypass that bit.
My distributor has an extra wire or so coming off it, so I guess I need to figure out how that works.
The rest of it is a bridge too far as is, and I am going to throw the fenders and bib on so I can reconnect as many wires as I can, thereby eliminating at least some of the mystery.
@Coolerman web site has great instructions on how to convert to the newer alternator . He also sales wire kits to extend the wires for the alternator and oil pressure sender.
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- #409
Here's the link to the instructions for information purposes:
This is the receptacle I need to plug it in:
The key piece of info is that the alternator has shifted from the driver's side on the former F engine, to the passenger's side, so that little bit of the harness needs to be split off the loom and rewound.
The oil pressure sender appears to still be in the same place. I "think" it should be ok at the current length, unless I'm missing something here.
The oil pressure sensor was on the driver side by the block drain on the F engine. So I had to extend that wire. Glad you got the fan figured out.
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- #411
Well, poop. There is a wire that looks "just" like the oil pressure sensor on the passenger side on mine. I need to do some serious wire tracing now, instead of "by guess and by golly" work.
One thing; the wiring diagram I have off Coolerman's site is exactly opposite of the way mine is wired. Need to figure out how else it differs.
You might check your manufacture date. Mine is man date boy May 68 and registered/titled as a 69. 68 is a little different from 69 I have to go back and forth on things.
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- #413
My manufacture date is 3/69. So that puts it right on the line for lots of differences
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- #414
I found a better schematic, with wire colors on Coolerman's site.
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- #415
I've been in the dithering phase of my build and have studied enough to start hacking away.
Black/Yellow wire is "On" and goes to the coil, Black/White is "Start" and goes to the starter solenoid and I "believe" Black/Red is "Accessory", as it hooks into a bunch of wires on the schematic. The P.O. soldered in a fuse to that wire, and if you could see the state of the wiring, you'd understand why.
I "believe" I see the initials "ACC", "ON" and "ST" on three of those spades, along with a number on the fourth, unused one.
These wires almost match the ignition wiring in color, but I need to de-pin the blue/red and pin it where the white/blue is located.
My goal is to have safe, effective and simple wiring here. No more rat's nest or guessing what the original wire color was supposed to be.
Black/Yellow wire is "On" and goes to the coil, Black/White is "Start" and goes to the starter solenoid and I "believe" Black/Red is "Accessory", as it hooks into a bunch of wires on the schematic. The P.O. soldered in a fuse to that wire, and if you could see the state of the wiring, you'd understand why.
I "believe" I see the initials "ACC", "ON" and "ST" on three of those spades, along with a number on the fourth, unused one.
These wires almost match the ignition wiring in color, but I need to de-pin the blue/red and pin it where the white/blue is located.
My goal is to have safe, effective and simple wiring here. No more rat's nest or guessing what the original wire color was supposed to be.
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- #416
I printed out Coolerman's wiring diagram, taped it together and posted here to see what level of detail I could see.
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- #417
Should've named this rig "firestarter"
The cable that runs to the starter solenoid needs replaced. Isn't long enough, anyway.
Plugged in my first known wire. Just a little bit on the melty side.
Found the alternator wiring, which @mrboatman was talking about. Note it is on the wrong side of the engine.
Both of the headlights are cobbled together like this.
Some critter really liked the wiper motor electrical junction. Yum!
The cable that runs to the starter solenoid needs replaced. Isn't long enough, anyway.
Plugged in my first known wire. Just a little bit on the melty side.
Found the alternator wiring, which @mrboatman was talking about. Note it is on the wrong side of the engine.
Both of the headlights are cobbled together like this.
Some critter really liked the wiper motor electrical junction. Yum!
For some reason I don't think the 69 had a factory ACC wire attached to the switch. @ToyotaMatt would probably know. Here is a diagram that shows it with out the ACC. Look at your fuse block and you can tell the difference in which you have.
Forgot the link Wiring Diagram
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- #420
I can't get the link to work.
At this point, I'm not touching the thing. Every time I think I know what I'm doing, someone points out that the color blue I am using has the wrong smell, and I am Lost Like a Mother F*cker.
