1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project (1 Viewer)

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Have you considered drilling access holes and shooting POR's or 3M Rust Fighter into these area's and pluging the holes with a rubber grommet. I plan on doing this in my B , C and D pillers of my 55. I purchased this gun that has a long wand to shoot into the pillers and rear panel area's.

Lou
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Luke111 said:
Have you considered drilling access holes and shooting POR's or 3M Rust Fighter into these area's and pluging the holes with a rubber grommet. I plan on doing this in my B , C and D pillers of my 55. I purchased this gun that has a long wand to shoot into the pillers and rear panel area's.

Lou
Click to expand...

Yes, I will definitely be doing that. I have not done the research on which product/s yet, but it will definitely be done. When sand blasting this body, the original undercoating, which appears to be some sort of tare based product, really did it's job in the locations that were thoroughly covered. Those areas looked like new when it was removed. Too bad they did not do all the areas. I have been thinking about what is the best way to be sure that all four sides get properly coated inside the rocker panels and other areas once you cannot see into them. I may think about undercoating some areas as they get finished and prior to sealing off completely. Which products have you used, any. I have used POR, but I have no long term trials to know it works over the long haul. I have seen cars "rust proofed" on TV shows (Dream Car Garage) using Crown products.
 
Mark, I purchased the 3M Rust Fighter but have not applied it. It's called a panel coat, it does not dry hard, it't soft to the touch. I would rather shoot POR's or Rustoleum Enamel into these areas but my concern is I really can't prep those areas for paint , so I'll use the 3M Rust Fighter.
BTW great work on your LV, its looking great.

Lou
 
Luke111 said:
Mark, I purchased the 3M Rust Fighter but have not applied it. It's called a panel coat, it does not dry hard, it't soft to the touch. I would rather shoot POR's or Rustoleum Enamel into these areas but my concern is I really can't prep those areas for paint , so I'll use the 3M Rust Fighter.
BTW great work on your LV, its looking great.

Lou
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3M's Body Schutz is good stuff for outside of the vehicle. But I have a feeling the SEM "sauce" Buckroseau used under his LV may be better. SEM can be color tinted before spraying where as Schutz requires painting if you don't like the black color. I think the Schutz would be good for interior pockets like rockers.
 
Mark, looks like a great product. The 3M Body Schutz is a different product , Rust Fighter is for interior panels. I like the look of the Wurth stuff and the Waxoyl product site has some good info on how it works.

Lou
 
Mark, I took your lead and ordered the Wurth Cavity Protection this morning from Wurth. It comes in two forms, Aeresol Cans and 32oz cans that you can use in a gun. Here's the info 1-800-987-8487, Product Number (Yellow) 0892080 and is $29.99 for the 32oz cans . The Wurth Guns are expensive $275.00, I did not order that. Many thanks, I should have it Wed and may try and shoot it this week.

Lou
 
Luke111 said:
Mark, I took your lead and ordered the Wurth Cavity Protection this morning from Wurth. It comes in two forms, Aeresol Cans and 32oz cans that you can use in a gun. Here's the info 1-800-987-8487, Product Number (Yellow) 0892080 and is $29.99 for the 32oz cans . The Wurth Guns are expensive $275.00, I did not order that. Many thanks, I should have it Wed and may try and shoot it this week.

Lou
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Lou, good article on the waxing process. I did not know the Wurth stuff was available in the aerosol cans. As for the gun, I am guessing that any type of Schutz gun with a large orifice would work. $275.00 is a lot for what it is. I think they are very inexpensive. As for the process, I am a little confused bc on my rockers for instance, I cannot see how I could spray the wax like the pictures of the Jag durring assembly bc the area is fairly narrow and I have to weld the panels together. I guess it needs to be done after all the sides are welded together. The article does mention needing several size and types of lances for insertion. The other thing I want to be sure of is that the "wax" will not seep out of the cracks after application bc that would be a real problem prior to painting. Let me know how the stuff sprays once you get it. Mark

Link to cheap schutz gun.

Schutz Application Spray Gun A0UCG100: Eagle Equipment

While searching I found this stuff that looks interesting. Similar to something called Lizard Skin for sound proofing interiors.

Products
 
merbesfield said:
I cannot see how I could spray the wax like the pictures of the Jag durring assembly bc the area is fairly narrow and I have to weld the panels together. I guess it needs to be done after all the sides are welded together. The article does mention needing several size and types of lances for insertion. The other thing I want to be sure of is that the "wax" will not seep out of the cracks after application bc that would be a real problem prior to painting. Let me know how the stuff sprays once you get it. Mark
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Hi,
first and again :)
forget all these waxes ( my experience in more than two decades)
use grease.
bring it in, when your car is painted.
you need a lance like this ( ca. 120cm)
normal_druckbecherpistole-3300-verleih.jpg


some pictures how to spray (they used and use only Mike Sander or fluidfilm MIF4

step by step
after welding spray it with rustprimer
then paint your car
then "rust protection grease"

Cheers
Peter
 
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Mark, don't use any wax/grease or other products like that till the truck is finish painted. It WILL seep out of joints. Once you do spray it, park it somewhere that can get dirty for a few days in the hot sun.
 
a.greenspan said:
Hi,
first and again :)
forget all these waxes ( my experience in more than two decades)
use grease.

some pictures how to spray (they used and use only Mike Sander or fluidfilm MIF4

Cheers
Peter
Click to expand...
last :D
used my BJ43 since 1980 as my DD, 25 years until 2005, it`s protected with Mike Sander, never in a garage in this time.
Used on salty, dirt roads and and .......
has only little rust :clap:


Cheers
Peter
 
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Peter, thanks for the information about the Grease, in your former post regarding this you mentioned it was difficult to work with and since I have spent the cash for the Wurth I'll stick with it.
Yesterday there was a Wurth Muti spray gun on Ebay for $99.00 used once, its gone today.
I think all these products will do a great job and protect your LV in this lifetime . I'll keep you updated on my progress

Lou
 
Luke111 said:
Peter, thanks for the information about the Grease, in your former post regarding this you mentioned it was difficult to work with and since I have spent the cash for the Wurth I'll stick with it.
Yesterday there was a Wurth Muti spray gun on Ebay for $99.00 used once, its gone today.
I think all these products will do a great job and protect your LV in this lifetime . I'll keep you updated on my progress

Lou
Click to expand...
Hi Lou,
wax is better than nothing :),
use your wax, but in some years, spray it again with fluidfilm (easy to do)

Cheers
Peter
 
a.greenspan, not sure what I was looking at on that link, but lots of nice cars. I did see the pics of Mercs being sprayed. What were they spraying? I know Porsche uses something on its cars? I had a 73' 911S that clearly had a yellowish waxy film that had been sprayed under the car and it was not aftermarket stuff. I also have a 79' Mercedes SL and it has the same type stuff. I wonder if it is similar to the Mike Sanders or the clear wax sold by Wurth. Wurth has definitely been around a long time and is strongly used in the German auto industry.
 
merbesfield said:
a)a.greenspan, not sure what I was looking at on that link, but lots of nice cars. I did see the pics of Mercs being sprayed. What were they spraying?
b)Wurth has definitely been around a long time and is strongly used in the German auto industry.
Click to expand...
a) in German :)
...Aber was tut man nicht alles, um der Betriebstemperatur von Sanders *gerecht zu werden! Das Fett verflüssigte sich auch schon ohne Heizplatte im Vorratstopf,....

*they sprayed Mike SANDERS :)
b) sure, but not for rustprevention
c) best wax product in all test was
teroson
TRP_F0883793.jpg


this MB 600 had no rust, but they sprayed it with Mike Sander

"..dessen Schweller innen so jungfräulich waren, daß wir uns fast nicht trauten, dort Sanders reinzusprühen
Aber besser jetzt und für alle Zeiten fettig, als in kurzer zeit rostig!*...

trasnslation :*... better now Sanders than rust in some years ;)
 
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