1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project (1 Viewer)

[DanS HJ-45]

My mechanic who is a ex-airplane mechanic was telling me about the green paint they used to douse the insides of the planes with to prevent rust?

You're talking about Zinc-Chromate. It's not used on airplanes to prevent rust, it's used to prevent corrosion. I kind of doubt it would be effective on steel. If anything, I could easily see it leading to worse rust on steel, as it's pretty porous.

I personally would use weld-through primer in the areas you can't access. Once they are closed back up, the weld through should be able to protect it long term--as it won't be exposed to the elements really. I might make extra sure there are drain or access holes to preclude pooling and eventual rust, but inside a closed area--I think a weld through primer should hold up great.

Buckroseau simply used DP50LF instead of a weld through primer, and I'm half tempted to try that myself soon. Just because I'm using DP50LF anyway, and if it deals with the welding allright, then I guess I'd be happy with just using that.

Looks like fun!

Dan

 

[Henry James the 47th]

On my truck, which needed extensive sheet metal work, I had 'back primed' many pieces before spot welding, and then in some cases, months later, I had to redo the work to reconfigure things. What I found when I pulled the pieces back apart was that the back priming made little difference - wherever you put a spot weld, it burns the primer right off, and rust starts forming right at the spot weld. I don't know any way around it - even if you can apply primer after welding (not possible in a lot of cases), the primer will not get all the way into the space of the seam and there will be rust.

The only way I can see to solve this problem is to rivet or rivet and epoxy, like Lotus does.

Nice idea that Buckrouseau had there, but it doesn't seem to actually work.

That DP50 epoxy primer is good stuff!

 

[a.greenspan]

.. even if you can apply primer after welding (not possible in a lot of cases), the primer will not get all the way into the space of the seam and there will be rust.

That DP50 epoxy primer is good stuff!

May be this stuff, too
The Zinc Rich Primer Info Page

than, use "Mike Sander" rust prevention grease, don`t know , if you can get it in the states.
Not easy to work with, must be heat, but is the best product,
I use it more than a decade.
It won all test here in europe
orhttp://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm
easy to spray,
but " Mike Sander is the best !

Cheers
Peter

 

[a.greenspan]

.. even if you can apply primer after welding (not possible in a lot of cases), the primer will not get all the way into the space of the seam and there will be rust.

That DP50 epoxy primer is good stuff!

May be this stuff, too
The Zinc Rich Primer Info Page

than, use "Mike Sander" rust prevention grease,
http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm
don`t know , if you can get it in the states.
Not easy to work with*, must be heat, but is the best product I know,
use it more than a decade.
It won all test here in europe, since more than 15 years
orhttp://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htmFluid Film: Corrosion Preventive, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
easy to spray,
but " Mike Sander is the best !

Cheers
Peter

* read the instruction first !!!

 

[merbesfield]

May be this stuff, too
The Zinc Rich Primer Info Page

than, use "Mike Sander" rust prevention grease,
Homepage
don`t know , if you can get it in the states.
Not easy to work with*, must be heat, but is the best product I know,
use it more than a decade.
It won all test here in europe, since more than 15 years
orhttp://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htmFluid Film: Corrosion Preventive, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
easy to spray,
but " Mike Sander is the best !

Cheers
Peter

Thanks for the info. The Mike Sander looks good, but not easily accessible to us in the states. The Eurekafilm seems like it would be good and it actually is recommended for the underside of mower decks, which would benefit my business.

 

[JohnnyC]

Thanks for the info. The Mike Sander looks good, but not easily accessible to us in the states.

it sounds alot like the oil undercoating in vermont...basicly oil mixed with wax...heated and applied to undercoat car.

"mike sander's" stuff sounds like this ...but...he says his "contains no solvents" but it is a "mineral oil based product " I would think its probably a paraffinic oil which would make it illegal in many states...you could probably have it shipped...but...would hate for a DMV inspector to regect your inspection...always good to ask.

there is a place in MA that does something similar...trying to remember the name

 

[a.greenspan]

it sounds alot like the oil undercoating in vermont...basicly oil mixed with wax...heated and applied to undercoat car.

"mike sander's" ...

Hi Johnny,
"Mike Sander" is like

nobody knows, how it`s mixed,
but Mike Sander`s is the best.

...The Eurekafilm seems like it would be good and it actually is recommended for the underside of mower decks, which would benefit my business.
merbesfield

Would spray it twice ( used it last year on my fj45)
distance 2 years and than again in 5-6 years or so
Easy and quick to spray.
Cheers
Peter

 

[merbesfield]

worked about 4.5 hours today

Me and my mech. each workded on separate areas on the LV today. He worked on the passenger side and I continued work on the drivers side. He finished the upper front floor board and started on the B piller. I continued on the drivers side rockers and door jamb. I need some good advice/help on the welding. I am not sure if it is the welder or me, but I can not get any good welds. I am doing more grinding than I know I should have to do. The welder seems to be very inconsistent. I do not know if is lack of power or I just suck. I am using a thin gauge extension core to power the welder. Could that be an issue?
What is happening is that some times the wire just melts into a little spun pile without melting into the base metal, or sometimes it will sputter and not start arcing immediately so you do not get a good start, then by the time you stay in one spot long enough to get some heat you all the sudden blow a hole through the metal. I realize that some of this is due to lack of experience, but I really think there is a problem. The cutting, bending, fitting is easy. The wasted time is in the welding and fixing of crappy welds. Where can I go on the web to find out what to do? I can weld thicker metal fine, but this sheet metal stuff is giving me fits. My welder is a Lincoln MIG, lower end, not sure of the number, but 120V. Need some help and advice.

 

[merbesfield]

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[merbesfield]

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[merbesfield]

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[merbesfield]

More sheet metal work

Got about 3 hours in today, both me and Bill. He continued on the pas side and me on the drivers. He patched a couple of small rust spots in the jambs. I continued work on the rockers working my way to the front.

 

[merbesfield]

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[merbesfield]

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also replaced the front left floor panel ahead of the complete floor. Had to fabricate the rib section with the curved end. I have to say it was much easier than I had imagined it would be to hammer the end curved. We took some steel bar the same width as the rib and ground it to the match the curve. Then just clamped it under the rib we bent and I worked the metal to a curve and shrunk it down using lots of hammering and the pointed end of the body hammer. Turned out great and did not take very long at all. A little grinding with the 2" sander and done.

 

[merbesfield]

Drivers side rocker continues

Spent 7 hours in the shop all by myself in total peace and quite. Wonderful bliss. Got a major portion of the drivers side rocker welded and primed. I pulled out the spot welder yesterday and tweeked it. It actually works great. The spots it produces look very close to factory. I did a bunch of test welds and then checked them for penetration and strength and they appear very strong. Only draw back to the spot welder is it's weight. I think it weighs more than me and with my back it is definitely a challenge holding the thing in the are and at the correct angle etc. but the results are worth the effort. My welding skills are improving and I can see that by the time I am finished, ha ha, I will be pretty good at this. Anyhow, here are the latest pics.

 

[merbesfield]

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