Builds 1966 FJ40 Frame-Off Build (3rd Generation Owner) (1 Viewer)

[Rock40]

Got back to plugging away this morning. After testing the oil pump (as per the FSM) I installed it for good and torqued all the lines, sump, etc. For the testing portion, I made up a very humble oil pump primer tool out of a 12" piece of 3/16" rod. Got the one end red hot and then beat it into a slotted "drive" end that fits down into the oil pump quite nicely. After submerging the pickup tube into a bucket of clean 15-40 oil, it took about 5-10 seconds of spinning the pump before it primed up and starting pumping oil very fast. I'll use this not so fancy priming tool to pre-lube the engine also when the time comes.

Then the pan was installed, used Toyota FIPG so it shouldn't leak in the future. All pan bolts torqued to 7 ft/lbs

I'm mocking up the D.U.I distributor now. It's about 3x bigger than the stock unit but will fit fine. After reading up on it, you can designate any terminal #1 after determining TDC and then hook up the rest of the wires accordingly. Fuel pump, guide rod for oil dipstick and front motor mounts all installed.

 

[Rock40]

Had one major setback this morning as for the life of me I could not get the rear main seal to seat correctly. I believe the bore is just "slightly" smaller due to all the machining this block has undergone over the years. After ruining one seal and doing some MUD research, I ended up pulling the oil pan and loosening the #4 bearing cap considerably. Installed a new seal, torqued the bearing cap correctly and then reinstalled the pan. PITA but it's done right.

Also chased all the head bolt threads per the FSM with an oddball M13x1.75 tap. They were gross. For now, the short block is sitting in the frame for the first time since February or so. Still waiting on the correct oil galley plug and cam plug from SOR. Head assembly will likely go on tomorrow.

 

[Rock40]

Tore the oil pressure regulator down today and polished the piston that was all gummy.

And I located the balance sheet related to the rotating assembly

Head gasket is in place and properly oriented, unlike the last time this went together

Started in on the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. They’ve already been media blasted and chemically cooked out. This is the intake with the first coat of Bill Hirsch paint, rates to 2,000 degrees

 

[bb67tlc]

Rock, that rocks! On my 67 frame off, my mechanic checked out the engine and said it was totally solid and didn't need a rebuild, so I just gave it a cosmetic (and seals) redo... but I kind of wish I'd done all you're doing just to know what I'm starting with. Nice work.

 

[Rock40]

Rock, that rocks! On my 67 frame off, my mechanic checked out the engine and said it was totally solid and didn't need a rebuild, so I just gave it a cosmetic (and seals) redo... but I kind of wish I'd done all you're doing just to know what I'm starting with. Nice work.

Both Jason and I were planning on just that, until a bunch of coolant came out with the oil.....

 

[77HesterSue]

Great thread!

 

[Rock40]

Great thread!

Thanks! It's been a fun project

 

[Rock40]

Got the head installed and torqued...

Fresh lifters...

Started mocking up the rocker assembly and that's were trouble reared it's head again. From this pic, you can see that there is NO WAY the oil union is going to fit up and work correctly. From way back, I recalled a goofball concoction involving the union and a stainless hose clamp to bridge the gap. I think the assembly is missing parts.

 

[Rock40]

Thankfully I had a set of 69' F145 rockers laying around from a junk motor. After some measuring, I determined that the inner rocker shaft shares the same bore as the F135. They are also longer and will work correctly with the oil union. No other parts on the F145 are similar, such as the rockers, retainers or supports.

Started pulling everything apart in order to swap the shafts...

Here's an example of the difference in length. The F145 tubes also incorporate o-ring seals so they "should" oil better

And with both F135 tubes swapped out, I realized that one was BADLY bent, most likely from a some former mechanic forcing things down when they were all bound up.

 

[Rock40]

Here's a shot of the swapped out shafts sitting up on the head. The oil union is going to fit just great now.

However, after loosening all the tappets, I discovered that one of the shaft supports is cracked in half Along with that, 4 pushrods are seriously bent and the other 8 are "passable"; meaning they are very nearly straight. Good grief.

 

[Rock40]

Repair parts on now on the way courtesy of @65swb45, thank you!

The rest of the drivetrain is now in place after putting the final oil plugs in the rear of the F135 block. Sure was easier with the body off to get everything lined up and I installed the transmission and transfer case separately.

 

[Rock40]

Now there are literally dozens of little things to do prior to pre-lubing the engine and start up. I finished this morning with making a gasket for the oil regulator as these are no longer available. It's cut from a blank sheet of FelPro gasket material

 

[Rock40]

Made the first of the stainless braided AN lines for the fuel system

 

[JackA]

What adapters (parts numbers if toy got them) did you use for the fuel pump and filter? It's like British pipe thread to an? Thanks

 

[Rock40]

What adapters (parts numbers if toy got them) did you use for the fuel pump and filter? It's like British pipe thread to an? Thanks

Yeah, they are 1/8 BSPT to 4AN. Not a Toyota part and never was. McMaster-Carr part number: 4545K162

 

[White Stripe]

So are you going for a semi-nut-n-bolt/resto mod restoration? What is the end goal for the rig? I see some mud tires and a bit of suspension lift in their it looks like. Just curious. Really nice particular work your doing.

 

[JackA]

I knew those parts weren't Toyota oem. I just wanted some numbers I could look up and order. Thank you for the information.

Keep up the nice work as well.

 

[Jason Reed]

So are you going for a semi-nut-n-bolt/resto mod restoration? What is the end goal for the rig? I see some mud tires and a bit of suspension lift in their it looks like. Just curious. Really nice particular work your doing.

White Stripe-

Nut/Bolt Restoration for sure, everything has been apart (blasted, cleaned, Zinc plated (where possible), powder coated and/or painted).

Here are the mods:

- No roof/doors/heater
- Convertible Cali look
- 1/2 doors
- Toyo 31x10.50x15 Mud Terrains
- OME 2-1/2" Lift
- EUI Distributor
- Custom seat covering/padding, but OEM frames
- Rear ConFerr facing forward bench seat, rather than the jumpers
- Block mounted oil filtering system rather than the canister
- Orange paint (tribute to my pops and the orange paint job he thought was cool that he did in high school (15 yrs. old on undercarriage), so it's a joke but a cool little touch I thought. (Transfer case covers and valve cover only)

- Everything else 1966 OEM as much as possible (had to run aftermarket rubber and bolts here and there, where Toyot part #'s weren't available)

@Rock40 what did I miss?

Jason-

 

[White Stripe]

White Stripe-

Nut/Bolt Restoration for sure, everything has been apart (blasted, cleaned, Zinc plated (where possible), powder coated and/or painted).

Here are the mods:

- No roof/doors/heater
- Convertible Cali look
- 1/2 doors
- Toyo 31x10.50x15 Mud Terrains
- OME 2-1/2" Lift
- EUI Distributor
- Custom seat covering/padding, but OEM frames
- Rear ConFerr facing forward bench seat, rather than the jumpers
- Block mounted oil filtering system rather than the canister
- Orange paint (tribute to my pops and the orange paint job he thought was cool that he did in high school (15 yrs. old on undercarriage), so it's a joke but a cool little touch I thought. (Transfer case covers and valve cover only)

- Everything else 1966 OEM as much as possible (had to run aftermarket rubber and bolts here and there, where Toyot part #'s weren't available)

@Rock40 what did I miss?

Jason-

Sounds cool

 

[Rock40]

White Stripe-

Nut/Bolt Restoration for sure, everything has been apart (blasted, cleaned, Zinc plated (where possible), powder coated and/or painted).

Here are the mods:

- No roof/doors/heater
- Convertible Cali look
- 1/2 doors
- Toyo 31x10.50x15 Mud Terrains
- OME 2-1/2" Lift
- EUI Distributor
- Custom seat covering/padding, but OEM frames
- Rear ConFerr facing forward bench seat, rather than the jumpers
- Block mounted oil filtering system rather than the canister
- Orange paint (tribute to my pops and the orange paint job he thought was cool that he did in high school (15 yrs. old on undercarriage), so it's a joke but a cool little touch I thought. (Transfer case covers and valve cover only)

- Everything else 1966 OEM as much as possible (had to run aftermarket rubber and bolts here and there, where Toyot part #'s weren't available)

@Rock40 what did I miss?

Jason-

I think that's it actually. And you have the OEM 66' parts to go back to full original in the future if you really want too.