Builds 1966 FJ40 Frame-Off Build (3rd Generation Owner)

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@Rock40 why do you have to tap the unions? Were they standard threads or completely uncut?
I'm just chasing the threads really to make sure everything goes back together smoothly. Some are pretty crusty
 
I bought your old wiring harness off eBay. I combined pieces of it with another harness to bring my 66 40 back to life.
Cool build. Keep up the good work
 
I bought your old wiring harness off eBay. I combined pieces of it with another harness to bring my 66 40 back to life.
Cool build. Keep up the good work

Nice. Glad to hear it worked out for you. Very cool

-Jason
 
Got word today, the body is all welded up, and went to primer. Ready to be blocked. Getting there !!!

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Making some slow but steady progress, still waiting on the engine at this point. After receiving the replacement center arm assembly it was disassembled, washed, blasted, primed and painted. Here's a comparison shot, the bent to hell 66' version is on top:

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They aren't even close and my guess is somebody tried to "fix" this at some point

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The new arm is installed now. There are ZERO issues with relay rod to shock clearance using the OME 2.5" suspension. At the closest point during the arc of travel, there is about 1/4" between the relay rod and shock body. At least we can lay this to rest now once and for all.

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I added the drag link and steering dampener also. Nothing is torqued currently, just mock up.
 
It's probably time for a quick update regarding this. The F135 has been in the machine shop and has been honed at .040 over and the entire rotating assembly has been balanced including the nuts/bolts that anchor the pistons/rods. It was supposed to be all wrapped up and ready for pickup this week.

Yesterday morning, I got the call that the crankshaft won't install properly and although shimmed correctly, it "locks" in place after tightening the 4th bearing cap down. This is a guy who's done 10,000 blocks so he knows what he's doing. Long story short is the block itself is a bit tweaked and it now needs to go in and be line bored across all the main bearing journals. In addition to an obvious cost increase, this now sets Jason and I back at least 4 weeks waiting on the machine work. Big time bummer.
 
We'll- it's been some down time with the build as @Rock40 & I have been waiting for the engine. Thankfully, I think, we are getting close to getting it back to Ross. In the meantime, I've punched off some more small items on the build and had this cool car show poster build with a stand. Turned out cool.

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Stopped by H&S Bodyworks in Bakersfield, Ca this morning. Body & Parts are ready. All blocked and going to paint early next week. The color match sample on the Toyota Spring Green (#T-1028) came out nice as well.

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Im in the process of sanding and repairing bondo patches on my '67. I'm strongly leaning toward spring green as the final color, but if the patch you posted above is spring green... that looks blue on my screen!
 
Im in the process of sanding and repairing bondo patches on my '67. I'm strongly leaning toward spring green as the final color, but if the patch you posted above is spring green... that looks blue on my screen!

It's missing the clear coat is my guess and base colors tend to change a lot once the clear is applied.
 
Yes, I just went and looked at the sample here on the computer and WOW, yeah that isn't even close to what it is in person. Major color difference. I better pull that pic, so noone thinks thats the color. :)
 
Im in the process of sanding and repairing bondo patches on my '67. I'm strongly leaning toward spring green as the final color, but if the patch you posted above is spring green... that looks blue on my screen!
Here is the Spring Green true color...
 

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