Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

[JackA]

I didn't strip it at all. Just sprayed over the existing crap. Everyone that sees the truck in person is amazed that it's rattle canned.

Since you plan to use your truck, you could do the same.

 

[wngrog]

I’m only a fan of Patina if it’s part of the story and it’s all the same. No way I would leave that truck unpainted. You’ve patched in too much metal.

 

[middlecalf]

I guess the John Deere green doesn’t count as patina.

 

[middlecalf]

Somewhere I became an infrastructure kind of guy. When we visit NYC I observe the buildings but wonder about the substructure, sewer, electrical network, etc. Probably why I needed to see what’s under the overspray paint. Original SR paint is marginal, primer still solid except where holes have been welded up. FWIW.

 

[middlecalf]

Anyone know what the corded-like things are that sit in the slot between the dash and the windshield frame? Remember, my windshield does not fold, it’s an early one piece (in appearance) frame. There are actually bolts inside the frame at each side. I think this so the frame can be assembled in the factory to the cowl and then the ends of the seams are welded closed to give a single piece look. These slots are the remnant of the two pieces becoming one (there’s a slot on the inside and outside) and they’re “filled” with this cord-like filler. I feel like this thing needs to be removed so that slots can be cleaned/rust converted. They both have a bit of damage anyhow. JP @ClemsonCruiser might this be similar to the construction of the hood pads you’ve had made by your MIL, but thinner and smaller? Whitey @whitey45 , John @pardion any ideas? Thanks.

 

[middlecalf]

4 layers of paint...

Down to 2 layers, original primer and SR paint. And bare metal.

 

[cult45]

Im betting that cord-like filler would be seam sealer.

 

[middlecalf]

It's not typical seam sealer if it is. I'll try and post a better pic that shows it's something (in some sense almost plastic, in others sort of canvas like) wrapped around something (looks like a cord of some sort). But seam sealer may be the replacement. This is a fairly deep channel, again I believe it's between the windshield frame and the cowl, and probably set in place before the channel's ends are welded closed.

On edit - this has the appearance of the vintage car type fender welts.

 

[middlecalf]

5 layers on passenger side kick panel. Looks like a PO used pink stuff to level missing painted areas with painted areas. And had plenty of that pink crap.

I like these colors better.

 

[KT40]

I like these colors better.
View attachment 2109735

Nice fall colors! We were just up in Boise last weekend for parents weekend at BSU. It is nice up there.

 

[middlecalf]

There’s actually some pink crap over secondary primer over original paint and original primer, so now I get to extend my stripping prowess (hey, not that, this isn’t the Project Wrongway thread) to body filler over paint I want to try and keep. At some point I might do as I’m told. Or not. We’ll see.

 

[cult45]

Slightly off topic but do you know if 1975+ doors will fit a fixed top 45?

 

[middlecalf]

@cult45 I can only guess, but my guess is it’s more of an age thing than fixed top thing. So there’s two different height bug catcher vent windowed doors (both early) and then the later regulator vent windowed doors that are also different height at least. Not sure if there are differences in width or bottom radii (so rocker panel differences?), possibly door latch mechanisms (if so maybe that could be swapped out). Maybe Brian @whitey45 or John @pardion has some better input, and I’m all ears too.

 

[middlecalf]

Is there a detailed door thread or sticky somewhere? Seems like there ought to be given all the door questions over time.

On edit - I need to read this Door compatibility information

 

[middlecalf]

Well that didn’t help (me). Not much real early info (early is NOT early 70’s, lol). A schematic type comparison of doors with measurements going back to truly early (early 60’s- we’ll leave out the plexiglass FJ25 gang as they have their own forum) like @Coolerman ’s electrical schematics would be the cats meow. Wishful thinking.

Well I’ve off-topic’d the hell out of my thread, .

 

[cult45]

Haha you sure did! Thanks for the help - I did search the interwebs but similarly I couldn’t find an answer.

 

[middlecalf]

Pink crap gone. I think there may be a bit on the tub in a few places, hopefully no more on the cab. Not sure what was being covered up, the panel is pretty flat (by my standards). Maybe this rig was a high school shop project rig at one time - “How to fill small dents and scratches with a pile of pink crap 101” - or something. For those who are <insanely> inclined like me to remove this crap (fire) is the key. I used a small propane torch and slowly worked my way through it (not too much heat in case there is something to keep underneath) with a chisel/scraper in hand. Then some goof off (again being careful) to get the last thin layer off. Turns out there wasn’t a lot to save in this area, but what was there is saved.

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s remnant of some of the cord/plastic extracted from the windshield gap. This must have been their form of seam sealing back in the early ‘60's. The brass shim shows that that gap penetrates to the inside.

I’ll have to torch the rest to get it out (including exterior seam), then rust convert as it’s pretty rusty in there.

Dash (interior) paint removal isn’t going very well. Original primer and paint is very brittle. Will have to rattlecan as least the dash. Pissant.

 

[middlecalf]

So that thing is actually one piece that goes across the entire width of the window frame, just like the current rubber windshield gaskets, with cutouts for the defroster air to pass through. But this isn't rubber, it's plastic of some sort that has the cords on each edge that form the bulb seals at the grooves and a corded body for thickness. Both sides were compromised, and thinking they were smaller individual pieces, I tried burning out the remnant of the inner piece. But upon further inspection I determined this is suppose to be all one piece. And what's left is not removable, it's trapped in there because the windshield doesn't fold and is non removable unless it's cut off. In fact, it was never intended to be removed because it can't, by design and manufacturing. Not a good design due to lack of maintenance access to an area prone to rust (as evident by the plethora of rusted windshield frames and cowl leaks). As far as I know, this is the only specific model and year of land cruiser that has this fixed windshield, which means virtually no info available of previous rectifications. Pissant.

on edit - it's vintage car type fender welt

 

[Michael B]

Are there any spot welds you can drill out to remove the windshield frame for a little R&R?