just checked the SWB fixed top and its the same.. so both have it
Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter middlecalf
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middlecalf
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- #242
So that doesn’t seem like a coincidence, 3 rigs, 2 continents. I suppose there’s some possibility my motor came from Australia since it’s not original to the rig. Maybe even the rig. But then that would beg the question more as to what is the purpose behind this pan mod.
A thought: are these third party pans that have more capacity and hence are larger/deeper so need the cutout to clear the front diff?
I’ll ping a few Jedi - hopefully someone has an idea. Apologies to those pestered.
@pardion @65swb45 @FJ40Jim @cppilot @ClemsonCruiser
@whitey45 @3_puppies @Splangy
A thought: are these third party pans that have more capacity and hence are larger/deeper so need the cutout to clear the front diff?
I’ll ping a few Jedi - hopefully someone has an idea. Apologies to those pestered.
@pardion @65swb45 @FJ40Jim @cppilot @ClemsonCruiser
@whitey45 @3_puppies @Splangy
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Mark
I didn't know the original owner as well as his son.
Mark
middlecalf
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Awesome info Mark, thanks for the effort! Looks like the welded "mod" is not a coincidence for whatever reason (5 rigs, 2 continents so far). Wonder if this is only particular to 45's, and then certain ones of those? And Huckleberry's looks smaller but pressed/formed in, not cut/welded. The only thing I can think of is clearance for the front diff, or maybe something for RHD rigs that put something to do with RHD in that area that needs the clearance. Curious if any 40's have this (my '65 is an SBC so no info on my end). Hopefully we find the expert. Adding names as I think of them: @wngrog @Poser @Living in the Past
@FJC Mtneer what's Maytag's oil pan look like?
@FJC Mtneer what's Maytag's oil pan look like?
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I was thinking maybe something to do with the winch, but doesn't look like it.
middlecalf
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- #247
Yeah the PTO winch comes in from the other (drivers) side.
middlecalf
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- #248
I’ve managed to get 50% of the brake cylinders disassembled, even so they’re pretty crusty. Even with the new honing tool chucked in the drill chuck I’ve given up refreshing these old cylinders, so new ones are on their way from Utah. And the new brake lines are on their way from Rain-Land. So I should have brakes. No excuses.
Have you done the knuckle job yet? If so you likely will never use this plug. It’s for adding more grease to the knuckle but I never have used it. Ever. On any of my 20+ Cruisers.
middlecalf
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- #251
New cylinders from @cruiseroutfit on the backing plates, new hard lines from @Rainman should be here Friday. My assumption is that for fittings that have the flared tubes nothing should be applied to the fitting threads, correct? But what about the fittings on the softlines (which are also new from CO) and the banjo fittings which use copper compression washers for sealment? Should some anti-seize (a smidgeon) be applied to those threads upon assembly? I've tried to forget how miserable it was to disassemble the existing fittings from the lines as they were very corroded up, even being copper.
May have gotten ahead of myself. Not sure I can install the front leading cylinder banjo fitting with the cylinder installed because of lack of clearance with the turn radius limiter. Good thing these are new cylinders and bolts, easy undo to redo.
May have gotten ahead of myself. Not sure I can install the front leading cylinder banjo fitting with the cylinder installed because of lack of clearance with the turn radius limiter. Good thing these are new cylinders and bolts, easy undo to redo.
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middlecalf
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- #252
Yeah, I used the old ramped adjusters, new ones don't have the ramps. Fat side out, no ramp gap.
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middlecalf
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- #253
Anyone not using these? I’ll take a couple or eight...
Cruiser Outfitters sells those $3
middlecalf
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Vortexing... Patrick McManus’s great contribution to naming what we do a lot of when we want to be doing something else.
In yesterday’s and today’s vortexing exercises while test installing the new brake lines from @Rainman, I managed to break 3 of the 6 bolts that hold the battery tray bracket to the frame. Of course only one bolt needed to be loosened to adjust the position of the rubber brake line support, but 2 more needed to be broken along with all bolts removed to get the one broken one out. Onward Vortexing!
Six failed attempts (2 per bolt) to weld a nut solidly enough on the broken bolt shank (and one sub-vortexing event of breaking a small drill bit off attempting to “drill out” an offending broken bolt) finally envigorated enough brain synapses to come up with a “trick.” I drilled the shank a bit to create a shallow hole, then welded on the nut. I was able to get a sufficiently solid enough weld and went 3 for 3 on suscessful removal. Now back to regularly scheduled brake line install until the next vortexing event.
In yesterday’s and today’s vortexing exercises while test installing the new brake lines from @Rainman, I managed to break 3 of the 6 bolts that hold the battery tray bracket to the frame. Of course only one bolt needed to be loosened to adjust the position of the rubber brake line support, but 2 more needed to be broken along with all bolts removed to get the one broken one out. Onward Vortexing!
Six failed attempts (2 per bolt) to weld a nut solidly enough on the broken bolt shank (and one sub-vortexing event of breaking a small drill bit off attempting to “drill out” an offending broken bolt) finally envigorated enough brain synapses to come up with a “trick.” I drilled the shank a bit to create a shallow hole, then welded on the nut. I was able to get a sufficiently solid enough weld and went 3 for 3 on suscessful removal. Now back to regularly scheduled brake line install until the next vortexing event.
That all sounds like a real (lose your) temper test. I bet you feel much better now. Not too many things on a 40 more annoying than snapping bolts. That terrible feeling when you feel the little twist-break, and realize your entering a world of pain..
middlecalf
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pardion
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Looks good to me, Early stuff.
middlecalf
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- #259
John do you know when they went to the V-style banjo fitting?
middlecalf
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For documentation purposes, here’s Jim Chenoweth’s (@FJ40Jim) ‘62 rear axle. So this straight-in RWL (rear wheel long) brake line is early to at least ‘63 (probably mid-year) as John @pardion has pointed out above and as shown in my ‘63 pic above. So when pursuing brake lines be aware that they change from straight-in to 90-deg in (V style) at the cylinder for these early rigs probably sometime in mid-‘63. Rainy @Rainman has seen a ‘63 line that came in at 90-deg (V) instead of straight-in. FWIW. And I really wish I could have preserved Jim’s axles.
